Nkt, removing flower stalks opposed to allowing them to remain is mostly done to save berries/seeds for germination. I too read removing the stalk soon after flowers fade, strengthens the following years buds. If you want to sow seeds from your Clivia, use the brightest, mosts mature, red berries. I had an old 10 gallon aquarium filled w/a couple inches of soil. Odds andd ends were rooted inside. One year, I left the flower stalk on until berries reddened. I didn't want to toss them, so I removed each seed, and inserted in the aquarium soil. Months passed, 'can't recall how many,' and baby Clivia seedings grew. When each stood about 7", with 4 or more leaves, I gave them to friends. Give seeds a try....Toni

Some of the easiest flowers to grow and dry are annuals -- Lonas annua (seed getting harder and harder to find) Ammobium alatum (winged everlasting) Limonium sinuatum (annual statice) Helichrysum (strawflower -- has been called Helichrysum bracteatum for years but now some sources are using a new botanical name, Bracteanthum bracteatum or something of the sort) and gomphrena, especially the Strawberry Fields variety and a closely-related strain usually identified as Carmine. Of these, the helichrysum and gomphrena are very tender, and you don't want to put them into the ground when there's any chance of frost, so the only time they can profitably spend in a cold frame is a little hardening off. The Lonas annua and winged everlasting are a bit hardier and will grow ok in cool weather and could stand more time developing in a frame. Perennial plants that would do well in the frame, but may not bloom the first year, would be Achillea (try A. filipendula, a yellow yarrow, for sure), German statice (Gonolimon tartaricum) and sea lavender (Limonium latifolium). They're pretty easy to germinate, and the only tricky one is sea lavender -- you'll have to experiment with when to pick it to get results you really like. You might also try hollyhocks if you've got room for them. The single-flowered ones are good and the black-flowered ones are really smashing, although they usually don't bloom the first year. People find it hard to believe, but they air-dry well. There are lots of other things you can try, from blue salvias to eryngiums, that are just a bit harder to grow or that take a little more work or a fair number of plants to make a difference, etc., but these will get you off to a good start.

What is the best way to dry flowers? Answer : As well as which plants are best for each method: glycerin method and instructions Microwave method and instructions silica gel method and instructions air drying method and instructions other methods? What is the best method to press flowers? Answers Info on flower presses Info on pressing in books Other methods? Info on which paper to press with.... blotting paper etc. Info on how to seal pressed flowers, wax laminate etc. What are some of the most popular flowers for drying? Info on how to preserve your dried pressed flowers the longest..... i.e. keep away from light etc.

My hydrangeas are Annabelles, which have the big, white blooms. As they dry on the plant, they turn lime green, and then brown. I have to wait to cut them until they've begun to dry on the plant--that works for me. My arrangements in the past are mostly lime green with a hint of brown (good for fall arrangement). I cut, remove the leaves and then place in a vase of water. By the time the water evaporates, the flowers are dried, and I just move them to a clean vase (no water). I just checked on mine, and they are still mostly white. A few are starting to turn lime green, so I need to wait another few weeks to cut them for drying. Annie, I think perhaps waiting a bit longer to cut your blue hydrangeas is the key. I found this link below that indicates waiting until Sept. to cut blues. I recall Holly-Kay had a lovely arrangement of blues on her table in a recent photo--perhaps she'll weigh in there, too. Here is a link that might be useful: Drying Hydrangeas