Hi Rozita, Can you list the varieties you have so I can see if they are general seed setters, reluctant or non-seed setters. Not all varieties set seed; some varieties set seed under a broad range of conditions and some require specific circumstances for seed to set and then specific circumstances for the fertilized seed to progress to maturity. My experience tells me: 1. Pod parent you choose has to be capable of setting seed ie fertile - most important 2 Pollen parent has to produce viable pollen ie non-sterile - most pollen is fertile and as long as you can wipe some off onto your arm hair, it has dehisced and is ready to use 3. Notwithstanding that some varieties set seed almost anytime and some only under certain, hard to fathom circumstances, in general for seed embryo to be successfully pollinated environmental conditions should be progressing from warmer weather to cooler weather ie very late in summer to early Autumn - can vary a little depending on each year, but in general when the temperature range is between 15c at night and 25c during day for a period of time, the soil temperature tells the plant that conditions are favourable to support reproduction. Early morning is traditionally the time for pollination to take place and for stigma pads to be receptive, however some of us are now pollinating the flower that will open tomorrow, late 'today' with today's ready pollen 4. As well, humidity and sunlight affect fertilization just as much. Conditions are best with as high a humidity level as possible, even light misty rain is great, though you should cover the pollinated stigma pads with a 'cover' if too misty - the longer humidity is high, the better. Sunlight is the enemy to successful pollination in general, so cloudy days are great - if plants are in pots, put them in shade to get pollination happening or tie bloom to face downward 5. In general, plant must be happy ie not suffering great root temperature variation from hot sun against pot during day, then cold at night; not experiencing dry soil one day then drowning the next - this is potential pot culture of course. Therefore in ground is best to reduce temperature and moisture extremes 6. The nutrients the plant has absorbed prior to pollination can affect seed set, so avoid high nitrogen, rather choose one with medium nitrogen, low to medium phosphorous and medium to high potassium and with trace elements - however in saying this, some plants don't care and set seed even when starved of food and in fact, some need to be starved of food and water to feel threatened into saving themselves by turning on their seed setting mechanism. Soil PH can also affect some plant's ability to set seed - this may be tied in with plant's abilty to uptake food etc or general health 7. After pollination, to avoid pod abortion, maintain average conditions ie not too dry or wet and don't overfeed, especially with nitrogeneous food 8. If in a pot, avoid hot sun, though early morning ok. If plant is in ground and weather turns hot ie above 30c+, then consider shielding plant with shade cloth if convenient, otherwise cross fingers and hope for best - some can only handle a few hot days then abort, though most tough it out and survive well after initial pollination has taken - remember that day by day, weather is usually getting cooler 9. Pests can sting or chew maturing pod and cause it to abort at any stage, sometimes moths lay eggs and grubs burrow in, sometimes aphids and mealy bug get behind the sepals, so you can spray with light chemicals or just be vigilant and use physical action 10. For me, some pod parents, ie mothers who have already opened, seem to only want to set seed later in day after they have been opened all day,so that's when I pollinate them - goes against logic of fresh stigma pads and past methods That's quick overview and you will get seed if your decisions and actions match above practices - bear in mind I don't follow the above to the letter unless I'm having difficulties or want a specific cross to take as in most cases if you pollinate enough flowers, some will take and you do get seed, maybe not hundreds, but 20 to 50 is enough to keep me busy and when multiplied by many bushes, I end up with thousands of seed and that's heaps for a person who works full time. Please let me know if this information is pertinent and useful. Regards, Brian Kerr.

Epimediums are essentially self-sterile, and virtually 100% cross fertile, even across most of the other species. If you grow several Epis near each other, each year you will be guaranteed a new set of self-seeded inter-specific hybrids. I have 2 years worth of crops coming along, and should see the first blooms next spring. You can get hybrids of a desired cross easily by planting a pair of the desired parents away from any other Epis and then all their seedlings will be the cross from those plants though perhaps in both directions. I have 3 sets of parents isolated this way to get a cross I want to look at. George

Please share your thoughts....today I accidentally snapped offf a long stem from my beautiful Hibiscus....question: what is the best possible way to propagate this stem? In the past I have dusted with rooting hormone and have made new plants....but what about rooting in water? I hate to cut up this long stem into small plants...ideas?

Thank you, Carol--I'm leaning towards an id of Abelmoschus saggitifolius. It appears that some botanists refer to this as A. moschatus ssp. saggitifolius. Really interesting plant!