We don't grow as much garden as we used to so I will only include what we grow Bean (Runner or climbers)---- We grow bush beans. Royal burgandy--a purple bean that turns bright green when cooked. It's tender and never stringy and Gold crop a good yellow bean Beet Cabbage Carrot Celery Corn ----------------sugar baby a bicolor early super sweet sweet 67 days great for northern climates and excellent flavor Cucumber (Slicing) --sweet slice, a burpless long european variety Cucumber (Pickling) hands down it has to be Cool Breeze hybrid--a small vine and leaves it's ideal for small gardens, all female flowers, grows to a maximum 4 to 6 inches. It has good flavor for eating and is great for pickling Garlic Green/Red Pepper (Sweet) We grow only green sweet peppers--our season is too short for the colored ones. I like big bertha. Jalapeno Lettuce (Loose Leaf, green, red) We grow red sails leaf lettuce-- nice flavor and never gets bitter even when it's old and either a baby leaf blend or muscilin mix Onion-- (Sweet) We grow dutch sets. Pea-- (climbing) My husband loves peas. We grow 2 kinds --green arrow 67 days and knight 57 days. That way we extend the season and don't have everything maturing at once Potato-- We grow lots of potatoes and 3 varieties with different growing conditions. Red chieftan who like it moist, Superior who like it dry and hot and Kenebecs who usually produce no matter what, some years better than others. Radish --I switch it up and grow several kinds during the summer. I only plant a few at a time. Spinach Strawberry --I like the everbearing ones--no special variety Swiss Chard --no special variety Tomato (Slicing, Canning, Salsa) -I usually have 3 different kinds. I find bush beefsteak a reliable producer, but the others I'm always changing. Tomato (Cherry)--If you can get a hold of Sunsugar you simply have to try them. At maturity they are a golden yellow and good tasting--my grandkids eat them like candy

your plants need the following: air, sun, water/humidity,heat ... a bunch of other things... think of it this way .... they are all full sun, summer plants .... mimic what they need outdoors and you will be further ahead .... first .... they all grow in the summer ... soil temperature NEVER fall very far .... if you are in a cold zone and trying to do this on the window sill .... they might be getting too cold at night .... leading to root rot .. if you have a furnace.. they are struggling for lack of humidity .... i agree you are probably over-watering ... and it is real tricky in the house .... in the winter .... i would suggest you tend toward letting them all dry between waterings ..... if you are relying on the sun through a window pane .. they are starving for light .... these plants need 8 to 12 hours of sun .... direct ... in the alternative ....16 hours under standard fluorescent lights no more than a few inches above them will suffice ... since you will need a light set up .... you will be able to add humidity .... research propagation .. and see if you can get a fresh start .... your plants came into the house with bug eggs in the soil ... and since they are food plants... you can not use a systemic to rid the soil of the bugs.. ergo ... you have to start over .... with cuttings.. in an isolated area .. if possible.. and then ... sterilize some media.. and keep them clean ..... other than saying they get light and water.. you have provided little if any information to exactly what you are doing in regard to the culture of your plants ... we cant help without more info .... the injuries you are experiencing are not the problem ... the weakening of your plants is the problem .... grow a strong plant ..... and the other things disappear .... and i sure hope these things aren't in clay pots .... they are nearly impossible to use in a house .... too wet.. too dry ... etc .... mint, as i recall .. roots freely ... if you still have a sprig or two that is in good shape .... slice the end.. and root it in a cup of water ..... off hand.. i don't know about the others .... good luck ken

If there are no other symptoms, then it could be grey mould (Botrytis). However, it also looks like there might be some faint yellowing patches...? It'd be more visible on the topside of the leaf. If so then it might be downy mildew (Peronospora). Have a look at some images of the two online and compare.

Yeah I think you're right about the white; looked again today and it was gone. The scale on the last plant if there is subtle, but how about the numerous non-subtle brown spots, some of which look eaten into the leaf? Some kind of mite? If so, here's the combo I've come up with: Acephate - Amazon: "97UP 1lb bag Generic Orthene Insect & Fire Ant Killer" - http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05507.html says "Insecticide with some effectiveness against spider mites. Systemic." Forbid 4F - eBay: "Free Forbid 4F Miticide Spiromesifen 1/4 OZ free gift when u purchase 3 pipettes" - "Like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed." A lot of the more mainstream systemic products use Imidacloprid, and while they don't claim to work against mites, they also don't mention that one reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides [such as Imidacloprid] that kill their natural predators.