skip to main content

At which stage to plant germinated Hellebore seeds?

18 years ago

Hi,

I haven't been posting here for a long time, but have been following every post for many years.

I currently have seeds from Ashwood in the fridge. After receiving them in early summer I stored them at room temperature for about 8 weeks in a bit of moist, sterile germination mix. Then I transferred the little ziplock bags into the fridge. Yesterday I discovered, that most of the seeds have germinated and the roots are between half an inch to an inch long.

In 2003 I germinated seeds from Elizabeth Town using the same method. I planted the sprouted seeds into deep pots, about 1 cm deep, covered with grit (as described in the Strangmann book) and put them under my growth lights. I noted though, that while almost 100% of the seeds had sprouted a root, the number of seeds finally growing seed leaves was quite a bit smaller. The success rate varied considerably with the different types of seeds. The red and anemone types seemed to be close to 100%, the doubles maybe 40-50% and from the picotees I only got 2 or 3 plants out of a pack of seeds (which was about 20 seeds at that time I think).

The seeds I had planted the year before (from hand-pollinated seeds from my Sunshine hybrid plants) I simply planted fresh, loosely covered them with a clear dome and left them in a frost-free garage. They seemed to result in a better rate as far as the number of resulting plants is concerned.

So finally my question: Is a germinated root length of about an inch the size at which the ones of you, who are using this germination method would plant them?

Was my mistake to put the planted seeds under the growth lights and thus interrupting the cold-trigger and thus continuing development? Should I have put the planted pots into the frost-free garage until seed leaves turned up, and only then put them under the growth lights (as in the plain, plant fresh seeds, method)?

Any input would be greatly appreciated! Because, as most of you will be able to appreciate,- seeds from Ashwood are something special, even more for a Canadian - Quebec gardener!

Thank you very much,

Gaby

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (2)

morz8 - Washington Coast
18 years ago
Gaby, I can't really answer your question on the root length of unsown seeds, my seeds are sown after the first warm moist period so the first sign I see of germination are those seed leaves pushing up, roots are obscured.

But you may be right in rethinking your temperature after sowing your seeds - I find germination (here where I use mother nature to provide those lower temps) after the seeds have been exposed to several weeks in the 40F range. Sprouts are visible while we are still having some overnight frosts, days often in the 50's but rarely much warmer. Germination from ET doubles equal to that of their anemone outdoors in our mild late winter, close to if not 100%
Loretta NJ Z6
18 years ago
I am no expert but I vote for taking them out and potting them up. I have germinated hellebores this way as well. If you leave them in the baggie too long, the growing tip on the root will start to brown and then that's it. You may get it to grow more, put out the cotyldon leaves but eventually the plant fails.
Related Discussions
germinating aconitums, hellebores, clematis, bleeding heart
Q
Comments (6)
I have callirhoe involucrata alba,hesperis matronalis variegata and oenothera Blood Orange. I'd be interested in the hellebores and the clematis. I can't remember if I e-mailed you that the other seeds arrived and I thank you once again for your generosity. I am always pleased w/ the seeds I get from you. P
...See More
germinating seeds - male and female seeds
Q
Comments (2)
Only female flowers can bear fruit. It works the same as we do. The males must fertilize the female and the female will bear the offspring. Pollen can be transfered many ways - wind, water, animals.... In general, some plants can successfully produce viable seed if they are unfertilized while most need to be fertilized. I'm pretty sure Christmas & Queen Palms must be fertilized to produced seeds.
...See More
Seed germination response to smoke of fynbos plants
Q
Comments (1)
For more information try this link Here is a link that might be useful: The mesembs
...See More
seed starting/germination methods - which is best for which seeds
Q
Comments (6)
Large seeds are probably better sowed directly where you want the plants to grow. Very tiny seeds can be difficult because of the possibility of drying out. So it depends how diligent you can be, and how organised. Are you going to remember where you sowed things and where you need to keep the area moist? Or are you going to be like me, wandering around the garden in a vague way, trusting to memory, getting side-tracked. And wondering why the ___________ [fill in blank] never germinated. Another thing you have to watch out for is the frustrating cutworm. He is a caterpillar, in his larval stage, and will become a moth. But on the way to getting his wings he spends his time slinking about chomping through the stems of the very plants that you have sown. Like cucumber seedlings. You will see them - both the felled seedlings and the caterpillar - but you won't suspect the caterpillar because of his air of innocence. And he's so smooth and attractive. (You probably only see them though if you've got your hands in the soil, fiddling about.) So, you need to protect the seedlings of things like zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber - all those nice fleshy seedlings. Little seedlings possibly aren't attractive to cutworm. (You can use something simple like a plastic milk bottle with its base removed, and no lid.) So, in summary, the main thing is to keep the area moist. And to know how deep to plant seeds. Little ones are planted very shallow. Big ones, about .5 to 1 inch. Don't walk on them. Don't stand on them admiring the garden. And there is just one exception when it comes to watering: with peas or beans, water at sowing but not again until they have germinated, or they will rot.
...See More

Related Stories

WINTER GARDENING Great Design Plant: Gold Collection Hellebores Perform Like Stars

Exciting colors, longer bloom times, forward-facing flowers ... These hybrids leave old hellebores in the dust

GARDENING GUIDES Seeds or Seedlings? How to Get Your Garden Started

By Abundant City

Growing delicious herbs and vegetables starts with knowing your goals and when you want to plant

Houzz Interview: Miss Mustard Seed’s Charming Pennsylvania Home

CONTAINER GARDENS 8 Easy Container Plants to Grow From Seed

Get beautiful blooms and herbs in summer by starting these choice garden picks from seed in spring

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Blue Sage

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

True blue and adored by hummingbirds, blue sage is easy to grow from seed in a sunny fall garden

GARDENING FOR BUTTERFLIES Great Design Plant: Arctostaphylos Glauca Nourishes and Delights

By Debbie Ballentine

Make big berry manzanita a center-stage specimen and watch the evergreen feed wildlife through the seasons

Ideabook 911: I Need Help Staging for Resale

By Becky Harris

SELLING YOUR HOUSE Home Staging to Sell: The Latest Techniques That Really Work

By Laura Gaskill

Get up to speed on the best ways to appeal to potential buyers through accessories, furniture, colors and more

NATIVE PLANTS Great Design Plant: Color Outside the Lines With Bluebell Bellflower

By Pollination Press LLC

Plant this Campanula on pathway and patio edges for shots of bright blue from May through September

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Pseudognaphalium Obtusifolium, or Rabbit Tobacco

By Curtis Adams

This late-blooming native annual, also known as sweet everlasting, adds spontaneity to landscapes in the eastern United States

Sponsored

A.I.S. Renovations Ltd.

15 Reviews

Custom Craftsmanship & Construction Solutions in Franklin County