The limits of my citrus growing experience extend to rearing a couple of meyer lemons for a few years as potential bonsai. Later, I grew a couple of flying dragons. I gave the plants away because I didn't think the growth habit was appropriate to the quality of form I look for in my bonsai. IOW, I had concluded that the growth habits of citrus as a group make them difficult and not particularly attractive bonsai subjects, though I know there are some exceptions. Citrus growers - please don't take that as a slight. There are many 'groups' of trees that don't make good bonsai subjects, and that has nothing to do with what you folks are doing. I was just offering my 'citrus' background so you can readily see I'm not an expert on citrus. I am, however, well versed in tending a very wide array of trees in containers. At this point in my 20+ year journey growing trees in containers, I have about 75-100 tropical trees, and somewhere around 200-225 temperate trees. By necessity, I repot more than half of my (a guess) 300 trees each year. I say by necessity, because we can tell within a couple of months when our trees need repotting. Whether we repot them at that time is a different5 issue, but at the point where the root mass has become congested to the point the tree can be lifted from the pot with the roots and soil mass intact, the tree needs repotting. This is a much more reliable indicator than any other method, and has been scientifically verified many times in tests by nurseries that have a vested interest in maximizing growth. They know that the growth rate begins to slow at that point, and that it continues to slow as congestion worsens. Not only does the potential for maximum growth within the limits of other cultural factors evaporate with root congestion, so does the possibility of peak vitality. Tight roots are a stress, and that stress affects the entire organism - even to the point of increasing the likelihood of insects infestation and disease. You CAN pot up before the tree reaches this point with no ill effects or decline in growth/vitality, but if the tree HAS reached that point, potting up will only allow a PARTIAL return in vitality and growth, and will set the tree on a gradual slope of decline. Soil - No plant like any portion of the soil to remain saturated for more than a couple of hours. Deprived of enough O2, metabolism and root function is negatively affected and fine roots begin to die. The longer the deprivation, the larger are the roots that are killed. When O2 returns to the soil so normal root growth and metabolism/function can resume, the tree then has to go about the business of allocating either current photosynthate (food - energy) or stored energy to regenerate lost rootage. For this reason, you should always use a durable and well-aerated soil. You automatically sacrifice potential growth/vitality when you choose a water-retentive soil that supports any significant amount of perched water. Repotting - use your own judgement, but I have repotted my own citrus by removing the bottom 1/3 of the roots and then 3 wedges equal to 50% of of the remaining roots with no problems. I also have several friends in CA and 1 in TX that uses the method religiously. Use whatever method you choose, but removing the old soil and root pruning is imperative to best growth and vitality. Once a tree has been allowed to remain in the same soil/container beyond the point where the soil/root mass can be lifted intact, growth is permanently affected until the time that the limiting factor of root congestion is eliminated. This even applies to trees that are severely root bound and are then planted out. I have worked on trees that had original soil so compacted that the soil was harder and stronger than fully lignified (woody) roots. You guys recognize the growth spurts in your trees. Repot as a growth spurt is winding down, or early in the spring. These are the periods of most rapid root growth. Adopt your own methods if you like. I just explained the 'whys' of it and how I proceed. There's no reason it shouldn't work as well for you as it does for me, but you don't need to follow my advice or my procedures exactly. I suppose what I want to leave you with is: Your soil IS the foundation of your planting, and can certainly determine whether you'll have an easy time of it or a difficult time. The roots are the heart of your plant. You look at and fuss over the foliage, but it's the roots that are REALLY in charge. Roots come first - before the foliage, so if you keep your roots happy, the rest of the plant will be happy. Al

Love the modness of it all - and thanks for showing the beginning of the progress. I was wondering where you got the darling hearts and checked pattern - then looked up through the posts. From your plates! Never thought about using more recent plate patterns - I'm not much into garage sales because my mother was so obsessed with them. (not meant as a dig to anyone who likes them - just that I was recruited to drive her everywhere.) Oh, and I brought a heater into my chilly spare bedroom where I work - that really helped with the cutting. Susan

How prepared are you for even a small "disaster"? If not, why not? I think one has to weigh the definition and potential disasters you could face together with the impact of them. I'm not a "prepper". I prefer to think I'm a "common senser". I just can't get myself to scare myself into laying in years upon years worth of dehydrated food, hundreds of rolls of toilet paper, and an arsenal of weapons to protect the toilet paper when the SHTF. That said, I'm also pragmatic and living in a northern state an occasional snow or ice storm is a very real possibility and then tack on some severe cold weather. Living in a city, the likelihood of getting so snowbound that we could not get out in an emergency isn't a top danger, but the reality is that a heavy storm makes it worthwhile to stay home in bad weather. My latter years of working enabled me to be able to adjust my schedule most of the time so I could stay home in bad weather and ride out the storm. I've always kept some food in the house for such a need, plus having it means I don't have to run to the store every couple days. I do not like shopping. I go to a store, get what I want and get out asap most of the time. I still comparison shop, etc, but I don't make a hobby out of shopping. I used to keep a fairly well-stocked pantry with canned and dry goods but with health issues that has expired. I am now using the freezer more as my food storage and try to keep a week or so covered with refrigerated and dry and freezer supplements it. It's not so much for emergencies but for convenience. And the convenience would pay off in an emergency. Especially during the winter, but even in the summer I try to keep some gas in the vehicle, at least 1/3 of a tank and I keep a couple 2 gallon cans of gas for the mower so that could be used if a need should arise. The second major impact or "disaster" if you so desire, is a power outage. During and following a big storm many years back my power was out for 7 or 8 days. Now that would have an impact on my preparedness but at the time, it really didn't too much. I used what I could from the frig and freezer right away but after a couple days I just went to a sandwich shop or deli and picked up the days food. Some meals were simple and basic, sausage, cheese, crackers, etc. The streets were made passable quite quickly. Water service was not interrupted. I used my vehicle to charge the computer and cell phone and as I recall the landline wasn't affected. I had a battery TV and radio for entertainment too and I used up my cache of batteries during this time period. I do keep battery lights and flashlights around. More than most. I don't lay in food supplies in fear of getting laid off or something as do some. For me, that comes under money management. And some people tout keeping cash handy in case of disaster but many if not most make the mistake of thinking everyone will have and will be willing to make change for them. I keep some money around and I keep small bills for tipping on deliveries, etc. Many also make the mistake of thinking they can buy anything in a disaster if they have cash. Many stores will close in a power outage, their fuel dispensers won't work and the registers won't work either. In the event of a chemical disaster or something and I can get out of town, I do have places planned where I could go for cover. I don't keep a "go bag" but grab a couple changes of clothes isn't a big deal. Meds are kept together and grab a couple other things, I could leave.

I prefer original works, but many of my originals are original prints and lithographs. A fine antique print can be very valuable and expensive (a Besler botanical can run anywhere from $2500-10,000 depending on rarity - unframed!), or can be quite affordable (Curtis botanicals and Cassell's poultry prints). Original prints are very good value compared to oils and watercolors. But I have some of those, too - some by local artists on the Vineyard. I've only bought a reproduction prints once and it was with great reluctance. My late husband had seen an oil painting by well known coastal artist, Ray Ellis. It was gorgeous - had the Edgartown Yacht Club in it as well as the light house. It was $40,000 so that was NOT going to be ours. A year later, a limited edition of signed giclee version became available - it was $750 unframed. My husband (a total non-materialist) wanted this print. He was dying and we ordered it. It came in several months later and went to be framed immediately. A few weeks later, he was in the hospital dying. Called the frame shop, they did a rush order and a friend picked it up and amazingly, hospital maintenance hung it at 5PM on a Friday! He died on Sunday night, but loved looking at his picture and all the memories it held for him. I had it over the bed in our bedroom for a few years but I just never really liked the fact that it was a giclee - it just looked very fake. I gave it to my son and he has it in his apt over his sofa - looks great there. I replaced it with an antique oil painting of a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that had belonged to the grand dame of the Cavalier Club - her family did not want it and I got it for a song. It looks much better than the giclee print. Collecting art is something that takes a lifetime. A local antique print dealer once told me that one need NEVER apologize for a blank wall - the right art will finally appear and one will buy it. In the meantime, no cheap "place holders". She was right and still is right.