Assuming the plants are healthy, then both are normal. The squash leaves are making themselves smaller so they don't transpire overly rapidly. It's a natural defense. If the cantaloupes have just started producing flowers, it is normal for all melons to produce a flush of mostly male mostly female blossoms for the first few weeks before they are both in abundance and pollinators can do their job. Unless it's been two months, I'd let nature handle it. It knows when the time is right. Just be patient.

John: What fruits are you concerned about? Peach and nectarine are wind pollinated so skip them. For plums, pluot, and apricot I get a small artist brush. Collect pollen from flowers a day or two after they open before all the anthers wither, change usually from yellow to brown. Move this pollen to newly opened flowers on another plant. After a while you will know which flowers have spent their pollen. They are probably most receptive before or at the time of pollen shed. I go in a circle around the trees to be pollinated spending a couple minutes at each tree. After two or three circuits I'm done for the day. Morning soon after sunrise seems best but as long as you are picking up pollen you should be doing some good.

There are a number of different ways to propagate pawpaws from seed. These may be found on the KSU site or elsewhere on the net, but this is what has worked best for me so far: I clean the seeds and place in mildly moistened peat moss in a ziplock bag which is placed in the fridge for a period of at least 120 days. I then remove the bags from the fridge and place in a warm environment about 80F where the seeds germinate in about 3 weeks. I then plant several seedlings in 3 gallon containers in appropriate media and keep in the 70 - 85F range under artificial light. I find that the seedlings can tolerate pretty strong artificial light whereas sunlight will burn them. The seedlings respond well to frequent nitrogen applications. At the end of the season when they're 1-2ft tall I put them outside under indirect light and allow them to harden off and drop their leaves and then store them in a cool but not freezing spot over the winter. The next spring they will transplant easily into their permanent spots in the orchard without transplant shock and without need for sun protection. The idea of using tall thin pots like sections of PVC is an appealing one for pawpaws, but one that has not worked well for me so far; I will be trying these pots again this year using a more water retentive medium to better compensate for my watering routine.

Knowing all the subgenus levels is difficult since so many of the names are wrong. But I usually use the coronal lobes and pollinia shape to help determine the way hoyas are related. The most important note is that hoyas have their receptive stigmas on the side of the column , not terminally as in most plants. This is the biggest mistake that pollinators do not realize. They appear to be receptive but this is not the case. Remember bees, butterflies, flies and wasps are the pollinators and they stumble across the flower reaching in deep to get at the nectar. On some species, nectar is oozed over the surface of the flower and insects lap this up with gusto. Walking and getting their legs in a fix allows pollinia receptors to be attached and this is what they bring to the next flower. Trial and error is the ebst practice. Start with self pollination (note some species are self infertile) but for the most part, almost all can be self pollinated. Hoya imperialis is a species which is self infertile. But I think some of the imperialis clones are actually backcrossed hybrids and do self pollinate. Many of the eriostemmas are hybrids and we call them species. Many of the guppyi's, susseula, and others are all hybrids. This can be seen when you self pollinate these and watch the variation come out in its offspring. The best tool to use is a coarse cat whisker, a watch repairman's magnifying eye-glass attachment, and a white scotch pad (to place the pollinia upon while gathering pollinia and going from one flower to the next. The scotch pad works since the pollinia gets stuck onto it and no gust of wind or just the breeze from walking will flutter these pollinia away. Attach the cat whisker to a thin pencil-like rod and use good secured electric tape, or similar material. Do not use metal or toothpicks, or anything that can damage the coronas. If you break a corona it will bleed sap and that sap is toxic to the stigmas and pollination process. Cat whiskers are best since they are stiff but not stiff enough to damage the floral parts.