I can testify that IF you pull it and pull it and never let it get big and lush, you will eventually get rid of it.That, of course, is a tall order in an established patch of it. Also, if your ground is soft and has a crumbly tilth, you can dig it out. There are thick runners from the foliage tufts near the surface of the soil and the tufts put thread thin brown runners that go straight down about 4 to 6 inches. These have the nuts on them. If you dig carefully, you can get it out, but you have to get both kinds of runners. I have also had good luck wearing a rubber glove and dipping my fingers into a Nutsedge Killer (Image or Ortho's) and running my fingers through the sedge. Two applications, a week apart, will usually kill it to the root. I tend to keep it dug and pulled from my vegetable beds and to use the chemical controls in my flower beds. You need to know that the nuts can lay dormant in the ground for years and then sprout in response to wet conditions. So, it's an ongoing fight. I have found if I stay on top of it, over time, I have gotten control of it in my beds. Now, in my lawn? Not so much. I hate that stuff. Oh, and don't forget this thing also makes seeds. For goodness sake don't let it make seeds!

No, don't use it in the compost. It spreads too easily.

Understanding about sedges can help in controlling them some. Sedges evolved as wet land plants and althouigh theuy have adapted to growing in drier areas they still need that wetter than normal soil to get started. Mulches provide the ideal habitat for Yellow Nut Sedge to grow in, the cool, moist, soil they evolved in. Correcting the soil conditions is one method of control and digging the "nuts' the rhizomes that produce the plants is another. There are poisons that you can spray that will kill the Yellow Nut Sedge as well as any other grass it contacts, but unless the soil conditions are corrected new seeds ,brought in by the birds, could germinate and grow to replace what you just killed. I see Yellow Nut Sedge growing in lawns and gardens that are sprinkled every day but do not see it growing where the lawn or garden is watered only once a week or so.

I have also posted this in the other nut sedge thread, and it is simply my experience with eliminating nut sedge from my lawn. I had a lawn-wide infestation of nut sedge after replanting the lawn. You cannot kill nut sedge in one year, it is an ongoing project. I have used Sedge Hammer and it has been quite effective. I have two small spots of sedge (about 10 plants in total) left in the lawn. You have to apply Sedge Hammer repeatedly (I do it about every two weeks) until the sedge leaves turn brown, and the plant dies. The problem with nut sedge is that even if you kill the leaves, the herbicide only trans-locates back about 2-3 nuts in the root chain. The roots can have up to seven nuts on any root. That is the problem - there will be nuts left to germinate the next year. That's why it will come back the next year, there will still be nuts in the root mass that are still active. So, what you are doing the next year, is killing the left over nuts, and 2-3 nuts back from them. Ultimately, you will kill all of the nuts and the plant will disappear. The problem with trying to dig the plant out is that the roots are very fine and fragile. No matter how careful you are, you will end up leaving some of the nuts in the ground, and as soon as the main plant has been taken out, the remaining nuts will start to germinate. Roundup (glyphosate) will do nothing to the plant. You need to use a sedge-specific herbicide like Sedge Hammer with spreader sticker in the mix. I have found that a small amount of Quicksilver herbicide added to the Sedge Hammer seems to increase the effectiveness. I apply the Sedge Hammer / Quicksilver / spreader sticker mixture after the plants have at least three to five leaves and the temperature is above 80 degrees. It usually takes two treatments over two weeks to kill the plant for this year. I then monitor the area the next year and repeat the treatment. Eventually, you can kill all of the sedge because there will be no more nuts left in the ground to germinate. In my case, it has taken about six years to get all of the nut sedge out a 3000+ square foot lawn. But, since you only need to treat the plant 2-3 times over four week period, it is really not very work intensive. Once you treat the plant for the year - you're done until the next year. It's a war of attrition and you just have to work at it until it's all gone. It can be done, I've done it in my lawn.