What's the secret to rooting cuttings?
fieldofflowers
10 years ago
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kioni
10 years agofieldofflowers
10 years agoRelated Discussions
With Fortuniana roots how big will Secret & Pope JP II get?
Comments (12)Things get complicated with PJPII. For the first 5 yrs or so after its introduction, the rose was available only as a Jackson & Perkins 'New Generation' (own root) rose. There are many gardeners who are absolutely convinced that the bareroot PJP they received and planted is on Dr. Huey when, in fact, it is a J&P 'New Generation' rose on its own roots. The first grafted plants that J&P authorized were on Fortuniana, and were available from a Florida nursery that went out of business a short while after negotiating the agreement with J&P. PJPII grafted on Dr. Huey became available only after J&P declared bankruptcy. I got my first PJP on Huey last spring. After only one growing season, the grafted plant is now larger and more productive than two New Generation PJPs that I've had since the variety was introduced. I understand that the variety is available on Fortuniana from K&M Roses. I would expect it to be spectacular on that rootstock. PJP recently became available on Multiflora (from Palatine). I'll be interested to hear how it does on that rootstock. Due to my experience with PJP on Huey, I suspect it'll also perform better on Multiflora than it does on its own roots....See More'Rooted' Cuttings: How much root s/b on purchase?
Comments (9)Another thing to consider---young rooted plants oftentimes have very delicate roots, and, even though they literally are coming out of the bottom of the pot. When the seller goes to clean the soil from the roots for shipping, many are lost. After a year or so the roots get really tough, but the "same year" cuttings are usually not this way. I find it no problem, really. I import plumerias from Australia and can tell you their definition of "rooted" on plants they send me means they have small nubs, or, maybe if you're lucky, more than this. The term they use is "struck" cuttings--have produced their first roots. I find that, if the plant has gone this far, it typically performs perfectly fine since it is in fact no longer just a cutting but has formed te structures it needs to survive on its own in soil. That being said, when I send customers plants, I am not comnfortable sending them plants with nubs only because US customers don't understand this and it becomes more of a headache trying to explain this to worried people than it's worth. I sometimes sell same year rooted cuttings and indicate they will have a small root system. This means typically at least a minimum of 2-5 inches in length remaining after cleaning away the soil. I also indicate when selling such plants that they are young rooted cuttings. As long as you buy them in the Spring and Summer, there really shouldn't be any problems as long as they are not overwatered or overfertilized; planted in a well-drained mix. I have seen many of these plants take off and grow like mad within a couple of weeks of planting. But, that also does depend on the time of year. To add a note on time of year: I would not recommend buying plumerias after September unless you live in a place that has warm temps right through Christmas (or better: all year), or, you have a proper greenhouse facility. Plumeria in their first year after arriving at your place late in the year can often succumb to what I call The Dreaded Winter Rot while in Winter Storage. There have been many speculations as to what causes this, but honestly, I have seen it on plants that shouldn't have gotten it otherwise if you listen to the supposed causes. ALL were young plants that hadn't been with me for over a year. I think the slowing down of the growth due to the late season is part of the problem combined with stress setting in from it being cleaned and shipped to you. This allows microorganisms the plant would normally fend off to take hold. It is a sinking feeling to find that plumeria you spent $$ on is a stick of mush when you go to get it to set out in the Spring.I am not saying all plants bought late will rot, but they are the primary ones that will have this problem. Occasionally the bigger ones get it, but this is much more rare. During dormancy ans winter storage it is crucial you do not water (unless excessive shrivelling is noted-- then give a small drink only)--especially the young ones. My plumerias go into the greenhouse around Christmas and stay there until early March because Jan and Feb are our cold months here. You can stack pots on onto the other and in between since there are no leaves; uproot in-ground plants and simply store them standing up with no soil or water (crazy, huh?). Some people in colder places put loose newspaper around the roots. I don't bother. The last two years I filled up my large greenhouse with them and they sat in there with no water until I brought them out again. The bare rooted ones were planted in the ground once again and have grown this year at least tweo feet already. Didn't mean to get off on winter sotrage but I felt it was appropriate as we were discussing plants with small roots/young plants. This is pretty important stuff to know concerning their care. ;-) Brad...See Morewanted: wanted seven sisters rose rooted cutting or bare root to
Comments (6)if interested i have multiflora var carnea. its believed to be a parent of seven sisters. i could have a rooted start for you by late summer. also looking at your wanted list, ill also will have holly hock seeds to. here is a picture of the multiflora var carnea last year alittle after full bloom. i can send you a picture of it in a week or two when its in full bloom. if you'd like. Travis...See MoreWill hormex rooting powder root maple cuttings?
Comments (5)I'm drawing my answer from How To Grow Native Plants of Texas and the Southwest by Jill Nokes which says: sugar maple cuttings are best taken in late spring after the first stage of shoot elongation has ended. Thick cuttings, four to six inches , taken from terminal or lateral twigs in summer root best. Treat with high concentrations of IBA (indole-3-butyric acid) and keep under intermittent mist. [Yes, the text mentions both late spring and summer. I'm guessing that means cuttings can be taken for up to 2 months.] Plant rooted cuttings in individual containers, and place in a cold frame over winter. Soaking sugar maple cuttings in IBA at the rate of 50mg/liter for 3 hours before planting improved rooting in one study. The author only mentions the IBA hormone, not any specific brand. However, Hormex only seems to sell one higher concentration. Their #16 is twice as strong as #8 (1.60% vs 0.80%). I think your #8 should be sufficient. It can take up to 3 months for cuttings to root....See Morefieldofflowers
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