I divided mine and took cuttngs last week and from the dead looking canes have emerged lots of little green leaves. I just put them in individual containers with no covers and set them in a sunny place. They're doing great.

Hi! Not sure if you're still looking for these, but I have some lime scented geranium cuttings I could send in exchange for any of these from your list: Stapelia Gigantea Vigna Caracalla, The REAL ones! Snail Vine,the common one,very fragrant ,NOT Caracalla Let me know! Amanda 'romando'

Check out the Devonian Botanic Garden website.

Many years ago, a member of my herb society, who was enrolled in a horticultural program, told us a Pelargonium expert had suggested to her class how to use hormone powder on their scented geranium or other Pelargonium cuttings. Being herbarists, we were esp. interested in growing the scented varieties and species pelargoniums--and I still am. Because the lecturer thought that hormone powders, ie. Rootone and Hormodin, were too strong for softwood cuttings,, like Pelargoniums, he suggested using a 50-50% mix of the rooting hormone and regular baby/talcum (unscented) powder. Since then I have been using this method with good results. Recently,I read another Pelargonium expert's advice on cuttings and she thought that using hormone powder promoted rot on the cut end. She was talking about dipping the cut ends in straight, uncut hormone powder or liquid. A note of caution--do not ever dip the end of any cutting directly into a pack or bottle of hormone powder or liquid because this can spread fungus disease; pour off a little into a separate container and then throw it away after using it. Dorcas Brigham, who was one of the biggest growers of scented and speciality geraniums in the US, back in the 1950s and '60s, recommended a novel way for striking cuttings. She put a small clay pot in the center of a larger diameter, but shallow azalea or bulb pot and filled that, I think, with small gravel (I use aquarium gravel). Then she advised filling the surrounding area with a lean soil mix. (I like to use equal parts lean garden soil, sand, and a starting medium, ie. Pro-Mix) and put her cuttings in around the edge of the bigger pot. The center pot (it must be clay so water can easily permeate it)is used to water the cuttings, so that they do not get watered on the stem at the soil-line--where it comes into contact with the soil, to help prevent rot. To take cuttings, I either select a small side branch about 3-4 long growing from a main stem and pull it downward and off gently, but so it has a heel on the end, or I take a tip cutting from the top of a vigorous branch just below a leaf node. Then I strip all but 3 or 4 leaves off, and then make an angular cut on the stem before leaving it out in a shady place to heal for about 8 hours, then either type of cuttings are struck [planted] as described above. Sometimes though, if I accidentally break off a branch, I'll just stick it in a jar of water, but this is not the preferred way to root cuttings, because the "water roots" that form are supposedly not as healthy as those that form in soil. I have both types of cuttings going right now as I broke a branch on a favorite scented about 6 days ago, and then this AM, when I pruned some new overgrown scenteds, and re-potted several, acquired this weekend at a 50% off sale, I did a pot of cuttings. It will be interesting to compare the water rooted young plant with those rooted in soil. Next week I will do some more cuttings in a flower pot as early August is a good time to do cuttings. That way some will be rooted and potted in time to go indoors for the winter or to share with others... Maggie