gardenia leaves soft and droopy
zone6-nj
10 years ago
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birdsnblooms
10 years agoRelated Discussions
soft leaves on a Moth Orchid
Comments (1)Droopy leaves is a sign of dehydration. This can mean either you aren't watering it enough or you've watered it too much and it's got rood rot and very few if any viable roots to support the plant. First you'll want to take a look inside the pot to see how the roots are doing. If they are green or yellowish green and firm than you need to start watering your phal more often than what you've been doing. If the roots are gray and soft or rotted and stringy than you've got root rot and you'll need to do a search on gardenweb on how to care for the phal until it gets new roots. If it's root rot and you want to try to save the plant than you may want to cut off the spike that's blooming. It won't have the energy to grow the spike and support the plant so it will put everything into the spike and kill the plant in the process. If the roots are fine than keep the spike but up the watering on the plant. Depending on the type of phal it is, the leaves should become firm again once the plant starts getting enough water....See MoreDroopy Leaves Meyer Lemon
Comments (3)Yes, Kev is spot on..Especially if you are talking about the hot sun hitting your tree before the root system heats above 55, it will do this often.... Should be fine if you do what Jeb says or find a way to keep the roots warmer than 55 before the hot sun hits it... I keep mine like that in an area where the sun hits it later in the day so the root zone has time to warm up to prapare for the hot sun... Just don't confuse this with having to water again when the mix is already moist..Believe it or not many do and end up over watering their trees.... Mike This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Thu, Jun 19, 14 at 16:16...See Moredo these jade leaves look droopy ?
Comments (7)Thank you everyone-- I am sure it is a lighting issue-- yet would never have figured it out on my own How would you suggest I use grow lights?? I have a fluorescent grow light under the cabinet my hubby put in yrs ago for me-- have not used it much-- perhaps a new bulb is in order ??? Do u think this will work and if so- like how many hours a day etc. cuz it sure is cloudy and drab here this time of year Now for the new replacement windows with insulated Low E/Argon gas filled glass--we had put in year ago-- not good for plants I hear ???? I simply need to have these Jades happy and healthy-- able to grow into some of those large beautiful plants you post on this site Mari...See MoreGardenias, a cure for yellowing leaves
Comments (38)This is a very interesting thread. But, it sounds almost like directions for mixing up a witch's brew. (No criticisms intended here, just an observation.) At the risk of sounding like a know it all, I would like to tell you all what Steve Bender says in The Southern Living Garden Book about Gardenias. If I were you, I would listen to him. My thoughts are the ones in parentheses. Listen to those only if you want to. Gardenias need good drainage, acid soil, and lots of organic matter. (This is me now: you can provide all of these things by working a couple shovels full of peat moss into the hole at the time of planting.) Plant them "high in the hole" (If you're planting a potted plant from the nursery, let the surface of the soil in the pot be a good inch higher than the surface of the ground you're planting it in. Mound soil from the ground up and around the root ball. This planting technique helps meet that good drainage requirement.) and do not let them be crowded by other plants. (This is very important! They need a good two to two and a half feet of space on all sides of their trunk. If they're too crowded they will have yellow leaves, develop sooty mold, and have even more insects than usual.) They will sulk and have yellow leaves if they have to compete with tree roots. (I have personally experienced this and it is gospel.) Mulch the plants instead of cultivating around them (their roots are near the surface and will be damaged by alot of cultivating.). Feed every 3 to 4 weeks during the growing season with an acid fertilizer (Miracle Gro or Holly Tone would be two), fish emulsion (plants like this like no other fertilizer I have ever tried in 30 plus years of gardening) or blood meal. They need regular water (an inch a week) and appreciate shade in the afternoon, but will do fine in full sun if all their other needs are met. It is true that gardenias seem to be insect magnets, but they are so tough, you can usually get away with doing nothing, allowing nature (ladybugs, for instance) to do its job, as long as you have followed the above directions. (This assumes that you don't use alot of insecticides that kill the bugs that want to be your friends.) Horticultural oil is a good pest control, but you are only supposed to apply it in the wintertime! It could do real harm to your plants in the heat of summer. For those of you that have lost some shrubs, you should know that Gardenias are among the easiest plants to propagate on the planet. Take stem cuttings right now (July-August), and you can have them rooted in two weeks in a glass of water or stuck into moist soil in the shade. In a year, they'll be at least as large as nursery stock plants. While all these ideas for Epsom Salts, etc. have some value, the truth is, you are just guessing at what your plants really need. It is cheaper in every way (time, trouble, and money) to start with the good solid fundamentals of gardening and to follow the advice of the experts. If that fails, get a soil test for $5.00. Then you'll really KNOW what you plants need. If you live in the south, chances are if you follow Steve Bender's guidelines, you won't need anything else to grow gorgeous gardenias. And by the way, if you don't have the Southern Living Garden Book, you can get one for the price of two shrubs (that might die without good information) or three containers of fertilizer. I couldn't garden without it myself. (And no, I don't work for Oxmoor house.:)...See Moreroseyd
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