With large plants like trees and shrubs amending small planting holes is basically always counterproductive, better results from plants in unamended holes on same sites in organized studies pretty consistent. Anything that puts a plant in a pocket of one soil texture surrounded by a different texture is likely to produce problems with how water moves into and out of the amended area. During wet conditions on heavy soils a new plant is likely to be sitting in water, during dry conditions the unamended soil around the hole may attract water away from the plant. The stresses created by these adversities result in less growth than if there was the same soil texture throughout. Amending the entire potential rooting area of the new plant can give it a uniform soil texture, but there is still the problem of the organic amendments decomposing and disappearing well before the shrub, tree or perennial is no longer being cultivated on the site. Placing good topsoil on top has the advantage of a mineral component (sand, silt, clay) being part of the material used, the whole thing is not going to subside and leach away. Likewise structurally stable materials like sand can be used to break up a soil throughout an entire bed and keep it that way, but huge amounts must be used in order to produce the desired effect - unless the existing soil already has a fairly high sand component. Where berms or mounds of topsoil are not adequate wetness is best dealt with by installing drain lines, with new plantings going into the existing soil afterward. Organic matter can be supplied as a mulch, as nature usually does it.

I had a sidewall failure. It is important to realize the weight of the drawer and insert count towards total weight (38 lbs) I asked and was told I could put 75 lbs in the drawer. I weighed my dishes and almost exactly 75 lbs (well I weighed a place setting and multiplied *12 for the villeroy and *6 for the pantry set) Here is the old thread http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1020404519236.html Believe it or not- still not resolved. We decided too risky to take out the cabinet. They are putting in a 2 level drawer. The company paid to add reinforcement screws and the new drawer will have heavy duty glides if I ever see it. I do have a 37 inch bank of drawers as well with pits and pans. I love the big drawers for function. I don't have to keep opening drawers to figure out what is in each drawer.

To clarify my numbers. Take the width of the window. Add 10%., That's width x 1.1. Thar's how much the total width of the curtains will cover. When the windows are pulled back all the way so that the window is completely uncovered, the amount of wall that the curtains will cover is 10% of the width of the window. That is. you have to allow for, in your case, 14.7 inches of wall space to be covered when you open the curtains fully. This is for light weight unlined fabric. You will have more of the wall covered with heavier or lined fabric, according to the formula I gave in my previous comment. As for not being able to pull the curtains back over the needed supports for the curtain rod, you can get a curtain rod that will let you do so. You need to look for a specialty rod, not one where the rings surround the rod.

Thanks for the replies! After looking at a span table, I figure I can make it a little narrower and use 2X12X16' as rafters. Everything is still in my head or on paper at the moment so I don't have any pictures yet. Thanks again!