skip to main content

Sporadic Blooms?

18 years ago

Over a month ago I purchased four 10" fuchsia baskets in full bloom from a large greenhouse. They appeared very healthy and loaded with buds. Now 2 of them appear to be coming to the end of a bloom cycle with the ends of the branches terminating in either a small leaf or a bloom with no further growth. I have checked for pests, I find no signs of mites or aphids, no distortion of the foliage. From time to time I have removed yellowing leaves which I felt was probably normal. I have been fertilizing weekly with 1/2 strength 20-20-20. Plants are located in a partially covered area facing SE so they get the morning sun and afternoon shade. Would it be best to cut back the long branches to force new growth? Each basket contains 4 plants which I assume is normal to attain the size. The varieties are Vienna Waltz, Marie Eileen, Quasar and Bella Rosella. I thought fuchsias would provide constant bloom until frost.

I did purchase a number of 4" starts at the same time, they are receiving the same treatment and doing well, no in bloom though as I pinched them back again.

Thanks for any suggestions and sorry about the long post.

Wayne D.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

fuchsiabonsailady
18 years ago
Hi Wayne,
You say they are in a partially covered area, which is good to keep off the sun, but are they getting enough air circulation? The reason I ask this, if they are not, this could be your problem.

Yes trim them back a bit, this will hopefully encourage new growth.

Have you been dead-heading them. That is removing dead blooms, if not the plant will put it's energy into producing fruits/seed and not produce new flowers - Kath:)
oregondahlia
Original Author
18 years ago
Kath, Thanks for the reply. Yes, there is plenty of air circulation around the plants. The covered deck is open on three sides and the hanging plants are spaced about 3-4' apart. In fact, I was wondering if they were getting too much wind. Our weather this Spring has been unseasonably cool, wet and windy. The poor blooms barely get a chance to open and they are ruined by the wind and rain.

I have kept up with the deadheading and have not let seedpods develop. Can't wait until later to experiment with that.

My smaller fuchsias in 4" pots sitting out on the deck rather crowded in flats look wonderful and some are starting to bud. All of these will be making a transition to the Washington Coast as we are moving next Saturday.

Regarding the 4" pots, those plants are in need of potting on. The rootball from a 4" square pot almost fills a 6" round pot completely leaving no room for additional soil at the bottom and little on the sides. Would it be proper to go on up to an 8" round pot?

Thanks again,
Wayne
Related Discussions
Garden Amaryllis blooming season...
Q
Comments (1)
Amaryllis or Hippeastrum ? normally we refer to Hippeastrum as amaryllis, those in your zone will bloom anywhere from Nov to April. Smaller bulbs will bloom late, older well nourished bulbs will bloom early. Some of my old bulbs are blooming now while smaller bulbs bloom around March.
...See More
I'v Had It!-Spraying Pesticides for Rose Midge
Q
Comments (46)
We had a pretty serious midge problem the previous two years here in the cutting fields, but this year we went totally organic and I've seen very little midge. I don't know if there's something we have that actually kills the little buggers or what that we'd been killing off and now they've come back, but it's been great not seeing those burned tips so often! We change a few months back from organic sprays to only using Actively Aerated Compost Tea, and roses we've not been able to get for cut in a couple years suddenly started producing good roses (Elina/Peaudouce, Geoff Hamilton, and others), plus it seems to have eliminated botrytis on our white roses. Powdery Mildew (our worst summer disease here) has been eliminated on the vast majority of roses, and has been losing hold on the roses that did have it, it's actually been curative in some cases (where foliage that had PM cleaned up). In reading that book "Teaming with Microbes" it said that the AACT using fungally based compost can actually kill nematodes because the good fungus in the soil around the roots will strangle the nematodes (they had an actual photo of that occurring). We don't have the bad nematodes that I've ever seen, but I'm wondering if maybe that same fungus kills the midge larvae, or something like it does. All these good fungus and bacteria are eliminated by chemical sprays, particularly the good ones right at the roots. They are also killed by strong chemical fertilizers. I don't really know for sure if this has been the cause for a much better rose year for us, but it does make sense, and it's a heckuva lot cheaper to do for us, even including the cost of the Compost Tea maker we bought. Plus, the crew doesn't fuss about spraying, and in fact are fairly enthusiastic about it (for our crew, LOL). Our rose production has increased about 44% over last year, some of this is due to newly planted roses getting big enough to cut, and stopping some excessive pruning practices in the past (we stopped that 2 years ago). --Ron
...See More
Please help a newbie still, after 3 years with brugs.
Q
Comments (1)
To keep it short and sweet, your brugs are beautiful and normal. I'm in NC zone 7b and mine are doing the same thing, They bloom a little here and there, now, and drop a few buds when it gets too hot. The real show stopper is in the fall when temps cool down. They need those cooler temps to bloom. Keep feeding them often, a dliute feed of bloom boost, when you water. Water well, then let go dry etc. Each year they will be doing better and better for you as they get established. Good Luck and don't sweat it! ;)
...See More
Canna care late July and August?
Q
Comments (2)
Without a photo, I can only make several suggestions. Typically your hot temperatures do not cause cannas to look ratty, assuming they are well watered and fertilized. In your area cannas are often infested with one of the leaf roller species. That would require the application of a pesticide. Most canna cultivars grow and spread quite rapidly at your location and really need to be lifted or thinned out each early spring; every other year for sure. The overcrowded condition can create the possibility of rust on the leaves as well as other diseases. Assuming none of the above apply; you will likely need to cut back all the bloomed out mature canes and leave only the newer canes to grow and bloom. As cannas grow and spread they will continue to produce new cane growth from around the base of the plant. The older canes typically produce only two to three bloom inflorescences and it is done. That particular cane can then be cut about 2 inches above the ground and discarded. So you certainly can remove all the old growth canes but I would leave any new growth that has not finished blooming. Kent
...See More
fuchsiabonsailady
18 years ago
Hi Wayne,
Yes indeed, could well have been the cold, wet and windy weather that has delayed the flowering of your plants.

Yes again :) it won't hurt to put the plants from the 4" square pots straight into 8" round pots at this time of year (growing season). It is normal to only pot-up 1 or 2 inches extra at a time in the cooler seasons eg during the winter in a greenhouse, as fuchsias in pots don't like a lot of wet soil around their roots when they are growing slowly, but at this time of year it won't hurt them, especially as you say that there would hardly be enough room for any extra soil in the 6" round pots. - Kath:)
oregondahlia
Original Author
18 years ago
Hi Kath,

Thanks so much for all the very helpful information. I have read the FAQS and the message archives where there is so much shared knowledge. I'm looking forward to being able to grow some beautiful fuchsias.

Wayne
tightathome
18 years ago
Hi

Sorry I have come in late on this thread but I have been sunning myself on my jols (vacation).

I have found that whenever I have needed to 'pot up' a plant from a square pot into a round pot a good way is to mould the square rootball into a cylindrical shape with my hands (make sure the rootball is moist though). Them by using the 'pot-in-pot' method of potting up something like a 4" square can be put into a 6" pot.

The 'pot-in-pot' method in this case would entail a 5" pot being placed inside a 6" and the space between the pots filled with soil (compost). The plant from the square pot that has been 'rounded' by hand would simply be dropped into the space vacated by the inner pot, a sharp tap on the bench and the plant won't even realise that it has been moved.

It sounds complicated but is quite easy, I have included a link which should help.

Tight

Here is a link that might be useful: Potting on

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES 10 Plants for Colorful Fall Blooms in the Drought-Tolerant Garden

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Want fall color but not a big water bill? Consider these not-too-thirsty fall bloomers

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Dicentra Eximia Brightens Shady Gardens

By Curtis Adams

This North American bleeding heart species blooms from spring to fall and welcomes bees and hummingbirds

CENTRAL PLAINS GARDENING Central Plains Gardener's May Checklist

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Set out flowering shrubs for spectacular blooms, get veggies going and roll out the milkweed mat for butterflies

GARDENING GUIDES Texas Gardener: What to Do in July

By J. Peterson Garden Design

Beat the heat with sun-loving blooms, pest control, good lawn care and sun protection. Pick up the pace for planting and planning

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Texas Ranger Explodes With Color

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

If purple is your passion, embrace Leucophyllum frutescens for its profusion of blooms and consider the unfussiness a bonus

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Velvety Dwarf Bottlebrush Beckons a Touch

By Steve Asbell

Brilliant red blooms and inviting textures will capture your heart, but the low maintenance and small size will win over your practical side

TREES Great Design Plant: Desert Museum Palo Verde Offers a Colorful Canopy

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Rising above others with its long bloom time, artful vase shape and lack of thorns, this tree is great for casting filtered shade

FLOWERS AND PLANTS Calico Aster Is a Shade-Loving Pollinator Nirvana

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Plant Symphyotrichum lateriflorum, an eastern U.S. native, in summer for fall blooms that scores of wildlife species will love

FLOWERS Great Design Plant: 'Rozanne' Cranesbill

Try this vigorous scrambling beauty as a ground cover or container plant for captivating garden color all summer long

GARDENING GUIDES Southwest Gardener's July Checklist

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Hold on to your hat and prune those tree branches; monsoon season means damage prevention is key

Sponsored

EK Interior Design

5 Reviews

TIMELESS INTERIOR DESIGN FOR ENDLESS MEMORIES