I don't think that anyone have tried it. It's worth to try though. Grape cuttings root easily, but different than figs. So far I've been only successful rooting hardwood cuttings of grapes. with figs greenwood can be easily rooted.
Bass

I rooted some hardwood grape cuttings by simply putting them in fast draining, sandy potting soil outside this spring. Of course, I'm in the deep South with plenty of humidity. However, 4 of 4 cuttings rooted this way. I would suspect hardwood grape cuttings would probably root in bags too.

Grapes root very easily when they are in the mood. I've used grape sticks as garden markers and they rooted (same with fig sticks). Last winter I chopped up my grape vine prunings and used them as mulch under a fig tree - about 30 grape vines started, all from pieces 1 or 2 inches long (nodes of course). When I have wanted to start grapes from cuttings, I used dormant cuttings collected in the mid-winter prunings, and treated them exactly as I have done with figs, in containers with peatmoss and perlite, with 2 or 3 nodes in the medium, and keeping evenly moist. I tried to start one from a greenwood cutting once and failed, but I have heard that it can be done. I had some Interlaken and Canadice grape cuttings that I saved in plastic bags in a bundle, and forgot about them. They were stored in a cool moist shed on the north side of the house. Several grew roots.

I see no reason why you cant try the method that you describe. There are some issues with having the right temperature for callous formation. Details from an expert are in the link below - his grape book is where I learned everything that I know about grapes. You can put extra sticks into the ground and also see if they grow. Grapes grow so prolifically, you should be able to get lots of cuttings for nothing.

Backyard grapes are as addictive as figs, taste incrediblly better than store-bought, and more productive, faster, than figs (in my yard). Good luck with your new hobby.

Daniel

Here is a link that might be useful: Grape cutting method

Thank you all. It is encouraging. I am asking this because spring is too far away and can't put it in ground now because it is getting frozen so hard that soon the nails will bend if hammered into the ground or the ground will break like marble.

The above link to Lon Romboufg (grape) page states:
Method 1. Small amounts of (grape) cuttings can be callused by wrapping them in moist paper or sphagnum in a black plastic bag. This is the way your cuttings arrive, so if they have been stored properly, they are ready to callus. Put them in a warm area that stays constantly at 80-85oF. The top of a refrigerator is a good place as the waste heat from the condenser collects there. Callusing should occur in one to two weeks. Buds may push and produce white sprouts, but this isn't harmful, though care should be taken to avoid breakage as the cutting must use energy to grow more shoots. Plant as soon as the cuttings are callused and roots start to appear. "
This is how we do the fig cuttings until the callus and intials show sign of roots.

So I will try half the cuttings using the bag method and the other half in 50% perlite+ 50% MiracleGrow mix and store in a moist cool place with frequent check-ups. Please let me know if this Perlite+MG mix is not suitable and if there is better alternative.
I will report on it coming spring.

Hi Ottowan,

I suspect that you will do fine. The other thing is when to start the rooting. Now is too early. If the tops start growing, they will become leggy and weak. Maybe you have grow lights which would help, or wait until, say, March or April. Depends on your local climate. Given how cold your area is in winter, storing the cuttings in the fridge same as a lot of people do for fig cuttings seems like a good idea.

Some people wipe their fig cuttings with a 10% bleach solution, then let them dry out, before packaging them in a plastic bag. This way they don't get moldy. Might be worth a try for grapes.

Best wishes,

Daniel

My experience is that Figs need a little more heat, and are more suc. to fungus damage. I use straight vermiculite with rooting hormone and NO soil media. In my climate it is best to err on the dry side. I suggest dipping the root end with a fungicide and root hormone before sticking and then, water only once a week at most.
I get fair take in pure sand rooting media, but again, no dirt.
probably the best method would be to fill a 5 gallon container with Vermiculite , cover the container with clear poly then and stick the cuttings into it through the clear plastic by cutting slits into the plastic first. This will keep the vermiculite warm and moist.
When I've tried potting mix, even cut by half with pumice, the cuttings tend to rot.

Thanks boizeau
I will try some cuttings the way you suggested. It appears to be a safe method. How long (approx) will it take for grape cuttings to root this way at room temperature (72F ~ 75F)?
Are you suggesting fungicide for mold prevention?
Is the mold accelerated by both 'wetness' and 'high temperature'?

There is usually some Thiram or other fungicide in standard rooting powders. Captan would likely work as well.

I have rooted grapes by many methods including the fig method you mention at the top here. They love getting moldy so I prefer to root them in a tall cup with moist sand up to just before the highest node and a baggie or other covering loosely over. A bit of air circulates under the baggie plus the sand helps keep mold at bay.

Scott

Good to know Scott that it is them that love to be getting moldy. I always thought that it was I causing them moldy by doing something, or not doing something; but then why would the other cuttings placed side by side in exactly the same environments at the same time will be squeaky clean!
So, scott I consider this as an exonerating verdict from an impartial judge. I feel better now.

Here, I just root the grapes outdoors. Putting clear plastic on the ground and pushing the cuttings through will trap heat, "Much needed up here". Figs would probably work the same, but I would dust the root end with a fungicide to be safe, and again a sandy media is important. Too much moisture and soil= rotted cuttings.

Boizeau
I received garpe cuttings in November and I have not been good at keeping the cuttings in fridge for very long periods without losing them to rot or freezing, and the ground option is six months away. So, I decided to use fig bag method for two cuttings of each variey, two of each in MG soil and the remaining two in perlite-vermiculite (50/50)mix. I will see which ones root first or better and which ones eventually survive.