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Yellowing leaves with odd pattern

18 years ago

I purchased a Fuchsia from Lowe's a month or so ago. I repotted it into a bigger pot. It has been doing great but recently I noticed it getting some yellow leaves. The yellowing seems to start at the center vein of the leaf. The Fuchsia is on my back porch and gets morning sun but not afternoon nor evening. Could too much watering be causing the yellowing? Or could it be a disease? Any ideas?

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Thanks very much for your help!

Comments (6)

fuchsiabonsailady
18 years ago
Hi Steedal,
No doesn't look like overwatering, I would suggest it is one of 2 things or both.

The pot is standing next to the wall, and the yellowing looks to be in the centre of the plant near the soil level, it could be just lack of air circulation.

OR

It could be a lack of magnesium. The easiest way to correct this is the next time you water put a level dessert spoonful of Epsom Salts into 2 gallos of water and use some of this when watering your plant next time. Kath :)
steedal
Original Author
18 years ago
Thanks very much! I'll try the Epsom Salts!

One thing I thought about lastnight is.....I put Boric Acid along that window edge to keep the ants out of my kitchen. I wonder if the boric acid could be getting into the Fuchsia and causing problems?

Thanks again!!
Andra
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Goodmorning everybody! Actually Jean is most likely on target since most of the time she is. I tend to side with her on this. That very same thing happend to mine a few years back when I put a couple of mine on my hot flat roof, especially after a cool period. Within one day the leaves turned like that. As for over fertilization? The damage to the plant would always start on the leaf tip and then onto the margins. They would either turn brown or yellow and recede back further. Also you can get sudden light green compacted growth in the full sun which then declines rapidly. I would of actually thought it was fertilizer spray damage, but you don't fertilize this way. You can grow a plant in pure sand, if you fertilize almost everyday, so I am going to guess if anything, that plant is not fertilized often enough even with the slow release osmocote in the mix. If the weather gets too hot, it doesn't work, and if it gets too cold, it does nothing for your trees which is exactly what you described. Your fertilizing regimend is very good as long as the temps cooperate. You may still have root issues going on with that one if root damage was a problem as recently as the last few weeks. It can take a long time for recovery. Ps. Nothing wrong with spraying your plants down as often as you want with water any time of the day and in fact it is much welcomed for everyone one of mine:-) For some reason I just don't make it a practice to spray mine after dark. Mike
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Calliope, that is true,however I would expect to see more wilting, stunting, or dieback if that was the case. While there are diseases that may manifest itself that way (Black root rot is one), think of balled-and-burlapped trees surviving a loss of more than 85% of their root systems. As for cedar-quince rust, good luck. It can be absolute hell trying to keep it off hawthorns, serviceberries, pears in a bad year, fruiting and flowering quince (Cydonia and Chaenomeles), and apples. Sanitation is a huge part of the control. The spores are everywhere, so check your clothes, hair, etc. as well as cleaning tools properly. This fall/winter prune out all galls that may have formed and pick off all infected fruit (they will be dark and shrunken (a few may be swollen) at that time of year). In the spring, when buds start expanding, start treating with Daconil or Mancozeb to protect the new growth and retreat every two weeks, every week if rainy. Every third or fourth spray, use a systemic such as Infuse or Immunox. Repeat the process over. Any leaves that develop spots should be removed and galls pruned out. I would pick out infected fruit. Just a thought on this though, but it may help to wet down the leaves/fruit before messing with the plant as that seems to control the spread of the spores ( I wouldn't worry about infection as the plant will have been sprayed). When dry and if disturbed, the "horns" will release the lightweight spores and they will drift easily. I had heard about removing cedar trees within a certain distance from the infected plant, however that doesn't work with CQR since it can occur on a host plant year after year. Let me know what your Extension service recommends.
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~~~ Explain thermal protection? ~~~ A piece of rigid foam insulation might help if the gravel or concrete is getting too hot and cooking the roots. By watering the one pot twice daily you are cooling it much more than the others. The plants own respiration may be helping with that as well. You're stuck. Without the plant using the water, you're at high risk of over watering but without being able to water more frequently, you appear to be making tomato root stew. Not a happy situation to be in. The one with the tomato looks especially sorry and I'm wondering whats holding it erect. Except as an experimental to figure how to prevent this in the future, I'm doubtful of that plants value.
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I believe those are leaf miner trails. Maggots of a tiny fly are the culprits. The dark part we see is the maggot frass, left behind in the tunnel as the maggot eats its way along. Why so very many, I ask myself? A super abundance of the culprit leaf miner flies survived winter (was your past winter particularly mild?), as pupae in their coccoons. They emerged, mated, and a population explosion of females laid their eggs on your rose leaves. Therefore a super abundance of maggots were the result. Does it look like they are still alive? If not, something killed them. Maybe residual systemic insecticide didn't kill them at first, but did them all in after the lethal amount was ingested. If not insecticide death,, they may all be dead because the population density caused the rose to release a super abundance of toxic self-defense chemicals that stopped them dead. Or they themselves produce chemicals that inhibit neighbor maggot competition, and the great volume of it in the rose's leaf killed them all off. However, if they are all still alive, I understand a spray with neem will take care of them. Moses
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tightathome
18 years ago
Hi Steedal,

Can I just ask a couple of things;

Does the plant container have good drainage?

Is it planted directly into the container shown or is there a pot inside that container?

Tight....
steedal
Original Author
18 years ago
Hi Tight,
The pot has pretty good drainage. Yes, it is planted directly in that pot. I used the Miracle Grow potting soil when I repotted it.

Thanks!
tightathome
18 years ago
Hi Steedal,

I think I would remove the faded leaves - they are not doing the plant any good, the air circulation will be improved and new leaves will re-grow anyway.

Did you add any drainage material to the Miracle Grow potting soil? - perlite or horticultural grit should be added to composts to aid drainage, I use 5 parts soiless compost, 1 part perlite and 1 part grit.

The epsom salts treatment advised by Kath should help,but don't overdo it.

Let us know how you get on.

Tight....
Conseb123
9 years ago
My Fuschia over the last few days has started to develop leaves with brown spots on the top surface with the remainder of the leaf turning yellow.The underside where the spots are on the top surface has areas of yellowy looking spores ( not sure spore is the correct term).Is this a symptom of rust if not what is it & how do I get rid of it?The leaves dry up & drop off as do the flowers.

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