Although they sell special pots for orchids, it's not necessary for an orchid to be planted in one. A plastic pot will do, as long as it has drainage. A few packing peanuts in the bottom will also provide more drainage and air to the roots. Pack the roots in snugly using a skewer, chopstick or pencil. Orchid roots like to be snug. The pot should just accommodate the roots and perhaps a bit more. Too big a pot will allow the medium to stay too wet and could cause the roots to rot. Soak the bark for at least an hour before using it as it's very hard to condition properly otherwise. Keep a trimmed down skewer in the pot and when you think the plant needs water take it out and touch it to your lip, cheek, or the back of your hand. How wet or dry the skewer is before you water will depend on the type of orchid. For cattleyas, if it's wet or damp, don't water. If it's dry, water. Cattleyas like to dry out before being watered again, but as donaldb says, vandas like a lot more moisture.

Increase the amount of light they get and consider changing to a different brand of fertilizer and to one that has micronutrients - don't throw away your existing fertilizer but use it on other plants or alternate using it with the new fertilizer). High-nitrogen fertilizers will inhibit flowering in vandas and are not recommended. (Nitrogen (the 1st number in fertilizer) is for growth, phosphorus (2nd number) is for flowers and last number is for overall plant health). Good luck!!

Hello, I have quite a few vandaceous all of which are in baskets. You don't have to spend much time each morning watering it. Depending on the basket size, get a mop bucket and fill it with water (unsoftened if you have a softener). Place the basket in the water, go brush your teeth, take it out, and hang it up. That's it. I have a cracked cover from a 5 gallon bucket that just lays on the top of my mop bucket. Helps to slow down the evaporation of the water. As Arthur said, some vandas need much more light than others. A southern window during the winter and outside (acclimated to full or near full sun at noon with some shade after noon) during the summer is how I handle mine. Yes, they take some daily care but, in my opinion, are well worth it especially when they bloom. Penelope

westoh here. If you haven't stumbled across it yet, here is a link to a recent thread about indoor lights. Which-grow-lights-are-you-using What wattage are the LED's? I'm not terribly familiar with fc's and corresponding light quantity/quality (1 fc = 1 lumen per Google?) but 1000-2000 fc seems like it would work for a lot of orchids, especially phals. The issue may be just how much actual area is receiving those fc's. A quick example of one of my grow areas covered with LED spots: The area is @4'x5' and I have 6 LED 23-27 watt spots hanging spaced out over that area anywhere from 10"-20" over the plant tops, those 6 spots generate @8000 lumens total. I put higher light plants in the center of the area and directly under the spots and lower light plants on the periphery. I bloom catts, equitants, dendrochillums, mini-vandas and other high light plants under this set-up regularly and my phals do great on the edges. My orchid room/spare bedroom temps range from mid-low 60's at night to mid-upper 70's during the days. For most orchids humidity is not terribly important IMO, so your 25-35% should be fine. I run my lights anywhere from 13-16 hours/day over the course of the winter as I try to match how things are naturally outside, mine are now at 16 hours/day after being as low as 13 hours/day in Dec-early Jan. My oscillating fan runs on the same schedule as my lights. I strongly suggest that you find a protected spot with preferably eastern exposure for summering them outdoors (@May-Oct for me in Ohio), it does wonders for my orchids. Good luck, Bob