Rick, are you sure you are not incorrectly using the term "genotype" more as what a "phenotype" is? The genotype is the complete genetic material--whether expressed or not. The phenotype is what is actually expressed. I am also not sure if you are familiar with "ecotype" either. Although I agree with your comment about genetic adaptation taking time, the Fraxinus example can still be problematic in that regionally, a gene for cold hardiness for the tree may not be typically expressed in Georgia populations, and thus would perish in Minnesota. Although the gene IS in the Georgia ash trees, it can be turned off in that population (an ecotype); and thus, if a tree in Georgia was moved to MInnesota, it is quite possible it would perish if that specific tree does not have the gene completely turned on to create the proteins, blah blah to ensure harsher winter survival ability. A terrific example of the ecotype is Acer rubrum. A FLorida native ACer rubrum will FAIL survival in a MInnesota and a MN native Acer rubrum will perish if planted in Florida. Same genotype, different phenotype (as a definite ecotype within the species). In another example, it is recommended to not secure woody plant materials far out of your cold hardiness range. Every plant in a species is similar, but still has terrific genetic variation possibilities. Forsythias, for example, grow in a nursery in Tennessee may not have the same caliber of cold hardiness all across the number of plants. If there are 10 forsythia plants at a nursery in Nashville, they will all survive that zone 7 winter, but, it is very possible that 3 of those forsythias do not have the "cold hardiness gene for survival below -10", and thus, those particular plants WOULD perish in Minnesota, but still survive in Tennessee. If these 10 plants always grew in Tennesee, one would never know which truly was the hardy since they would not be naturally selected/killed off by an unlike -10 event there. In Human Terms--we all have hte SAME GENOTYPE (except those with true genetic abnormalities such as XXY, XO, etc), but the PHENOTYPE is different. The phenotype is what is physically expressed. I can guarantee that I have the same 99.99% genetic code in me as anyone on this board; BUT I likely will have some expressed gene here and there that will predispose me to a certain medical/deliterious condition as someone else may be totally protected from it because their code is expressed in their body so that they are immune. I also recall much uncertainty in human genetics from university coursework about the simple "genotype" as you put it, regarding the races. We all have the code to be very darked skinned or havea different shaped eye, etc. It's through developmental factors by the genes of hte parents, perhaps selected through adaptations that the PHYSICAL (phenotype)is different, but the genotype (the inherihent code of that species) is the same. Perhaps we are making the same point but with a different perspective. I even am confused now with my point--am I supporting your comment now or acutally arguing against it! ;) I didn't read your paper, it sounds as if it's conifer genetics. My point is the use of genotype versus phenotype (which I think you made a personal definition) and also the reality of ecotypes.

Thanks for all the encouragement! So I am crazy but right along with all of you over our gardens. Skybird you're right what a great addiction! And guess what, my husband is actually really getting into the gardening thing. He calls me every night while checking up on the garden and watering to tell me how big everything is in amazement. He even picked a bunch of veggies and took a cell phone picture and sent to me. He makes sure to let the dog out early in the morning and evening to chase away the bunnies and deer. When he saw that the birds had eaten almost all the raspberries, he had that sound in his voice that gardeners get when they are bothered by pests or plant disease. This trip may have been good in more ways than one. I guess he normally associates gardening with all the back breaking work he helps me with at the beginning of each season. My son and I are on our way home from California and spent last night in Santa Fe. Getting ready to head down to High Country Gardens/Santa Fe Greenhouses to tour their 5 acres of xeriscape gardens. They have demonstration gardens of all the preplanned gardens (some designed by Lauren Springer) that you can purchase online or through their catalog. Steve, Australia sounds incredible. I'm sure you could find a way to do both places at once!

The grow medium (GM) shouldn't be dry, as drought stress becomes a factor before the GM is completely dry. The trick is to allow the GM to dry down to the point there is still some detectable moisture remaining before you water next. The best way to monitor moisture levels deep in the pot is by using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. See more below. The necrotic (dead) areas on the leaves is from over-watering, a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil (from tapwater and/or fertilizer solutions). Has the water you use to water your plants been routed through an ionic exchange water softener (uses salt)? In all honesty, I think you would benefit from a back and forth conversation regarding the upcoming repot, the difference between repotting and potting up, fertilizing, and what to do about the GM, which will have a significant impact on how much of an opportunity you will be able to offer your plant(s) to realize as much of their genetic potential as possible. Timing of the repot, what part of the year you repot is also important to achieving best results and the fastest recovery. One tip to remember as you search for advice you can trust: If you receive advice to water when the top inch or two of the GM is dry to touch, ignore it. That is commonly parroted on the internet and it's a recipe for over-watering and the problems inherent in that practice. If your pot is 8-10" deep, the top 2" of the GM can be 100% saturated with water. It doesn't much matter, when pots are over about 5" deep, how dry the top of the soil column is. What IS important is the air:water ratio deep in the pot, and you can use the information below to learn how to accurately monitor moisture levels where it counts. These are links to 2 things I wrote. One is An Overview of Good Growing Practices, and the other is devoted specifically to long term Care of Ficus Trees in Containers. I have 45 ficus trees in containers (finally decided to count them this year as I was bringing them up from the basement grow area to the outdoors where they spend every summer), not counting the young starts from cuttings. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Some warning flags: The first is: If a pot is 10" deep and the top 2 inches feels dry to touch, the bottom 6" of the soil can still be 100% saturated with water; so, using the 'dry to the second knuckle' test is pretty much a recipe for over-watering if the planting is in a pot deeper than about 5". What's important is the moisture level deep in the pot/ at the pot bottom. I'll leave some information below, about 'using a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water. It is much more accurate than the finger method or using a 'water meter', an unreliable gadget that measures electrical conductivity in the soil solution, which is largely a function of the level of salts in the soil. The second is: Watering in small sips causes all the dissolved solids in tapwater and fertilizer solutions to build up in the soil. As the level of salts increases, it becomes increasingly difficult for water to move across cell membranes. If the level becomes too high, water can actually be pulled OUT of cells (plasmolysis) in the same way curing salts pulls moisture from the cells that make up bacon/ sausage/ ham. Water when the tell comes out of the soil nearly dry after being inserted all the way to the bottom of the pot, making sure you wet the entire soil column and at least 20% of the water applied exits the pot. This watering method limits the accumulation of salts in the soil, carrying any build-up of salts out of the drain hole. I would detach the collection saucer (or melt a couple of holes in it) from the pot and use a separate collection saucer. There should be some sort of mechanism in place that raises the pot above any water that collects in the saucer. This denies a pathway by which any salts exiting through the drain hole could make way back into the pot. Indirect sun won't cause sunburn except in cases where the plant has been growing in a near dark location. If you intend to start flushing the soil as you water you can start fertilizing about every 5th time you water from now until late May, then change to every 3rd or 4th time. until mid-Sep. I strongly encourage you to use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. Do not buy one of the fertilizers on the market, said to be especially for FLFs. There are several scammers selling fertilizers almost unbelievably low in nutrients. some of them cost almost 200X what foliage pro costs on a per application basis. Foliage-Pro provides a complete array of nutrients and serves as a complete nutritional supplementation program from a single source. There are several other good reasons to use it too, in case you're interested ......? The threads below provide good info that will keep you out of trouble if you implement the advice. Overview of good Growing Practices Long Term Care of Ficus in Containers Questions? Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al