Flower buds for rhododendron are set in summer to late summer, none bloom on current growth.... I think I would have gone about the pruning differently and started with the lower spindly branches, then reduced the height. In theory (and certainly here where its mild and rhododendrons grow so easily) you can cut them down to a few inches and healthy established plants will resprout and grow. But that's not without risk, and it's easily a couple of years before your shrub is attractive and blooming again. I would go ahead and remove some of those lower whippy and crossing branches, or at least cut them back, improve the shape you've left. With rhododendron, their growth buds form in the leaf axils (where leaf joins stem). If you are making minor repairs to shape, cut just above a leaf rosettes and new growth will emerge form the dormant eyes there. If you have to cut into a branch below any leaf rosettes, look for faint rings on the bark which mark where there once were leaves. Careful inspection should reveal small bumps - the dormant growth buds just under the bark. Cut just above those faint rings if you can find them so the dormant buds will be stimulated into growth. If you cannot find them, make your cuts where you must, you may have to go back later and cut bare stubs down to new growth once that has taken place. It will take about a month for dormant buds to begin to grown on smaller limbs, up to 10 weeks for heavier main stems. While winter pruning is possible in mild climates, there's really no advantage to it with an evergreen plant. You're a Z4? Winter pruning rhododendron is not recommended in your zone but rather Spring and you are approaching being late for pruning now. You want to give new growth the longest possible growing and maturing season before the onset of cold weather again, also winter cold damage is more severe around pruning wounds than on unpruned parts of the plant - it's not appropriate for colder climates.

1. Start small - there is so much to learn! I am in my second year, and still feel overwhelmed. 2. Per Dave Ramsey - CASH ONLY! This goes hand in hand with starting small. Don't overspend until you know what you are doing. 3. Read this forum every day. Somebody always mentions an item than is bedeviling you! 4. Ditto on the books. I especially appreciate the Alan Armatage "Specialty Cut Flowers". 5. Go to the farmer's market and speak with the other vendors. ANY other vendor. Farmers are friendly folk and can give you a wealth of information in layman's terms. They can also teach/show you how to sell, display, and create good will. 6. Enjoy yourself. If it gets to be too much like work, it isn't fun anymore. The beauty of the flowers (I'm growing dahlias for the first time this year) will take your breath away. 7. I see flowers as God's jewelry. Treat them with the respect they deserve. 8. Don't get discouraged when the other vendor(s) does so much more business than you do! They've been at it for a few more years, have an established customer base, and know, from experience, what to grow, when to cut, how to present, etc. 9. Keep at it no matter what! Take notes from the beginning. Note what does well, what doesn't; what germinates; when things bloom (this one is very important); when the rain comes (and doesn't); the effects of different fertilizers; how much you sell per week; what sells the best. Basically: anything that can help you plan for next year. And, I could go on, and on, but I'll let the more experienced folks lead you down the right path....I am still learning. Sassy Stems

Looks like re-vamping is a good idea. The vast majority of plants reproduce in some sexual manner, most commonly by producing flowers and seeds and there is no way to escape this. Some flowers are showy and some are barely noticeable. Some attract bees and some do not. You just need to research a given plant to see if you can find any information about its bee attracting qualities. I don't know there to be a comprehensive list that would make it easy to find out which shrubs bees like most. That said, personally, I hate being stung and haven't been in decades, yet I'm around flowers and bees everyday. The only stinging insects that seem to go out of their way to cause harm are those defending their nests so it's pretty easy to avoid hostile confrontations. One possible plant for the conditions you've got is Florida Leucothoe (Leucothoe populifolia.) Another is Camellia, which bloom in the winter when bees are not around much.

Agree with the above... Respect the tools you work with and learn as much as you can about them, how they operate and do's and don't's. The most important rule when working on the miter saw, wear eye protection and keep your hands a safe distance from the blade. Guys in business know what is a dangerous cut, which cuts will make material shoot from under the blade, in which position material will kick or bind the blade, etc. Not only the blade can cause damage, the material itself if not properly positioned on the saw can cause severe damage. With that said, not only miter saw is dangerous, every power tool or handtools can cause some damage. Doing this almost 30 yrs seen guys loose fingers, toes, getting 5-40 stitches etc. Played doctor on many occasions so always have 1st aid kit nearby. Most important things to know for a beginner is to wear eye protection, don't wear loose clothing, keep working area clean, keep hands away from the blade, keep material tight against the fence and never try to cut short pieces that you cannot control and most importantly let the saw do the cutting, don't force the blade down, you not chopping wood. After you run 1000' feet of base and 1000' of crown you will get the confidence you need and you will know what cuts can be made and how and which cuts you stay away from and never let down your guard, always pay attention and never look around while making cuts. Good luck