A few days ago, I helped a friend prune a fig that had not been properly pruned for years. The multiple trunks of the tree (it was originally in bush form)topped out at about 20 to 25 feet high. Most of the figs were out of reach last summer. We cut the trunks back to around 6 ft. in height. One of the trunks had blown over, so we left about 12 ft of it growing recumbently. The 6 ft. remnant trunks will quite probably sprout new growth. If they sprout enough branches, then we will train those branches into a desirable form. Almost certainly, numerous suckers will grow from the roots at the base of the shortened trunks. If the trunks do not produce adequate growth, then choose the best suckers and keep the rest trimmed back. In a few years, you will have a fig tree with fruit that you can enjoy!

I always remove anything growing straight down from anywhere near the base of the trunk. I don't always do it all in 1 repotting session, but that is always my aim & I git er done over the course of as many repots as it takes. That's mostly because I'm a bonsai practitioner and a broad, fat root base is a very attractive feature that may be of no consideration to you whatsoever. Plants from cuttings really don't have taproots, but the plants are genetically smart enough to know they need anchoring, so they're programmed to send out taproot replacements in the form of roots that grow downward from near the base of the tree. These roots serve no purpose in containerized trees, and will need to be removed anyway, as soon as they hit the bottom of the pot & start circling or growing back up into the root mass, so it's better to just eliminate them as they occur. This is a maple, but pretty much how I treat figs, too: Other roots after pruning: From this to this Al

Re potting mixes: https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/11847-successful-potting-mix-recipes Re best container to use: https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/924-best-size-container I have my figs in 5 gallon buckets and in this mix: 5-1-1-1: 62.5% - 12.5% - 12.5% -12.5% (pine bark - peat - perlite - calcined clay). The buckets have 3/4 inch holes drilled on the sides near the bottom. I bury the buckets in about 9 inches of mulch and the roots come out of the holes into the mulch and into the ground. This lessens the amount of watering that I have to do because they get their water from the ground. In the fall, I use a spade to cut the roots and bring the trees into winter storage. You are more likely to find answers to your fig questions on ourfigs.com than on this forum.

Wow! That tree looks great! Way better than my puny little thing! These pictures of everyone’s trees make me want to go out and get more to experiment with! I’m starting to second guess an LED as I was just told any good quality one will be expensive which makes me think any reasonably priced ones on amazon are just a waste of money, even if I spend 50$ on a bulb. Leaning towards a CFL now. I am still new at this too but if I were you, had a light, wanted to continue active growth throughout the Chicago winter.... I would repot in the 5-1-1. Which I just did! With the poor growing conditions inside a condo, that soil isn’t going to allow the plant to hold up over the winter, even with the lights. If you are needing to water so much to keep it from wilting or drying out you may just be making the problem worse because that water might be sitting at the bottom still and I’ve read that root rot with over watering can look like a dehydrated tree that wilts because the roots can’t take up any of that extra water. Those roots you are seeing surface may be because they are looking for better air and drainage so they can actually take in the water they need. Or it may just be time for a bigger pot. Either way the answer would be to totally repot in new soil. I’d at least check the roots, mix in some 5-1-1 if you don’t want to ”totally re-pot” but it seems like you need way better draining soil for it to survive. if I were you, again...I’d just want to start fresh and not worry, I think it was worth it to take the risk. that’s just me though. I also have a humidifier running about 90% of the day right next to it. Indoor air is way too dry. I know others say it’s not needed but so far, id say it’s a huge help. I don’t know about pruning or if you should fertilize or not but I’d def change that soil at least 50% to the 5-1-1 and get a humidifier. I just totally repotted but in the same size pot, all I did was take out the “self watering“ component and add a lot more holes in the bottom and 4 on the side about an inch or 2 up the pot all across each other so there is a small hole on every side. I did the 5-1-1 with a tiny amount of slow release fertilizer and watered with half the recommended dose for indoors which is already half for outside of dyno gro. So far so good! I also wanted to add the fertilizer because it was lacking in something already and I have new buds and little lemons which I know takes up a lot of the nutrients which is maybe why the rest of the tree was suffering and getting chlorosis and yellowing leaves. Your leaves look good though so idk. very long explanation and answer short... just repot it. I know a lot of people here say not to do this in the winter but if it needs it now, it can’t wait all winter!