It is too bad you don't know what the fig was. I have a naturalized fig coming up all over the property that is a persistent weed. If you let the old trunk grow new growth you would find out quicker if it was a decent fig or if it would even fruit in SF. A lot of people on the coast have planted the mission fig that will only very rarely bear a crop that has time to ripen in the cool climate. Al

Climate zone? How big/tall is the tree? How old is the tree? Variety? Multi-stem bush?...single stem, tree? You can wrap it, or bury the whole tree in coarse sand, then mulch heavily. If the tree is small, it might be possible to just dig it up and stick the root ball in a large storage tub and over-winter the tree in a cool garage, replanting it in the spring. Keep the roots moist, but not wet. It really all depends on how much work that you want to do, but preparing a tree for over-wintering is work. Some even erect a Styrofoam-insulated "figloo" over the tree/bush. The various protection methods prevent the cold, desiccating winds, from frost-burning, and killing, all the young growth, causing, "die-back". Stop using any fertilizers, and cut off all unripe figs, now. Current season's growth needs to harden off BEFORE the any hard freezes. Hope this might help. Pray that this coming winter is nothing like last winter. Frank

my experience... Last year, I tried wrapping a business card (other thick card stock will work as well) with metal duct tape. I was able to write on both sides of the card with a ball point pen and the card prevented the impression on one side from coming through to the other. I extended the tape about 3/4" from the card on one side and about 1/4" on the others. I was able to punch a hole through the tape on the long side and run string through it. I did not attach it to the plant this year, rather, I laid it on top of the mix in the pot. The print is still visible on both sides and it does not show any evidence of coming apart. These are a bit more time consuming than I would like. This year, I cut plastic (opaque) milk containers into strips and wrote on them with a Sharpie. They have faded, and I do not think they will last another season. Also, I've had more than a few dug up by the squirrels. Next season, I was going to try sending Avery Laser Business Cards (#5371) through the printer, separate, then laminate them. I have information about my trees in a database and created a print format to fit on the cards. I called Kinkos, they charge less than $3.00 per sheet, and by my calculations, I can probably fit 8 cards per sheet. Also, Harbor Freight tools has advertised an inexpensive laminator in the past. For those of you who are growing in plastic pots, you could write the information you want on the side of the pot with a Sharpie or a grease pencil. Also, there are dog tag machines in Walmart (probably in the pet stores) as well as online. These carry three lines of information and would probably be the most permanent in terms of retaining its original properties. The machines in Walmart charge $5, and if I remember correctly, there are some online sources that allow you to upload the information via a word processor and are about $2.5 Like George, I also write the cultivar name (and other info) on cuttings with a sharpie (now that I'm thinking about it, I may have gotten the idea from George). It is also good practice to write the same info on a tree before repotting/transplanting. Just remember that if you later find out your X variety turns out to be a Y, you want to be able to change the label easily. I also have a map of the trees in my backyard I created on the computer. When I move the pots around, I update the map. Since I am traveling a lot, it helps to have a map to write instructions on for whoever is caring for my trees while I am gone. Also, if there is a problem, I can tell which tree they are talking about. ~james

robin_d - Do you remember when McDonald's french fries were so good? They formerly used a small amount of beef fat in the shortening. I try to avoid junk food, but I would make an exception for those fries! I can only imagine how good they would be in all beef fat. We did get our half cow last year, and have enjoyed the meat very much. Unfortunately, my request for the fat and all the bones for stock was passed from me to DH to the butcher. The result was that I got the usual soup bones, but all the long bones and fat were disposed of. The butcher did tell DH that we could have all the bones we wanted any time, because most people don't want them. One of these days I'll take him up on the offer, and I'll ask for all that connective tissue as well. Since the butchers normally pay to get rid of these, I imagine other butchers would be glad to get rid of them as well. Fat is one thing that I don't like to store in plastic, as it absorbs molecules of plastic quite easily. I imagine this absorption no longer occurs once frozen, but would be even faster than normal when the fat is warm. I realize that this isn't a concern for most people! ".........When you buy beef to be butchered, you pay for the hanging weight of the side/whole/quarter on the hook after the obvious parts are disposed of. Hooves, head, etc., and it's sectioned. That's how our local butchers do it, anyway. It's your call within bounds what you want off it and how you want it since you have paid for it by the weight........" calliope - that's the system used around here as well. We also paid a slight fee for the wrapping, that was either based on the pound or the number of pieces wrapped - I forget which. One reason I didn't go back and get some fat from another cow was that I particularly wanted the healthier fat from a grass-fed animal. It occurs to me now that I can call up the farmer who sold us the cow and ask when they are taking another animal in to be butchered. Of course the 100 mile drive was also a factor! Fortunately there are some great German restaurants in the town where our butcher is located, so it makes a nice outing.