Often young trees set their fruit late, and there is not enough time, therefore to have them ripen. After a year or two, they get on schedule, and most figs generally ripen in late August and September.

I have an unidentified tree that struggled for 5 years without getting more than a foot tall, dying back every winter. I transplanted it when we moved and it took off. Last year it fruited for the first time, but none ripened before the first hard freeze. This year, it is covered with fruit as early as any other variety, maybe a month or two earlier than last year. Maybe this year I'll get a clue what it may be.

My BT has some small fruit on it right now that appeared over the past one or two weeks. I'm probably 2-3 weeks ahead of you here.

~kiwinut

I have fruits the size of a small grape on the 3+ years old fig trees.The younger ones ,some have the same size some only buds that i hope they are fig embrios.Regards

I went out to check them again and didn't see any fruit at all. I did pinch back some more branches because they are getting quite big. I have a sinking feeling that I might not get any fruit but I won't give up all hope yet. They are pretty trees if nothing else.lol

I guaranty you ,if you trim it down about one third and pinch the end buds you are going to have fruits this year.
I see you have very healthy tree,all you need is to persuade them to fruit.!!!!!!.
IF you do not do anything they might just keep growing and growing and only have young fruits in august too late to mature.
I had this problem and my fig grew 12 foot high and no fruits so ,not knowing any better at the time i got so mad that i cut it down complettely.
I still regret not tryng to persuade it to fruit because it was a very healthy tree.
Hope this will Help.

Did your trees die back this past winter? I have found that shoots from the ground (for a tree that died back) will fruit but much later in our area. A BT that is covered for the winter and does not die back will fruit early. An in-ground BT, that I covered this winter, is now setting fruit (no Breba, just main-crop -- I never get Breba on this tree -- this is why I am transitioning to containers -- I want two crops!!)

-Steve

My inground Trees did not dye back because in the fall in order to protect them for winter i cut them down myself to 2 ,2and half foot long.
Some young rooting spent the winter in my garage,other young one in a hole i dug up in the backyard.
Speaking of Breba do not have too high hopes in Breba crop.
Some varieties will drop them after a good start ,doesn't mater how much you care about it.
I had about two dozen on a BRN TRK that was keeping them and is still,but it drops them one by one,now still got about six but they start getting yellow and i can see one by one they will fall.
English brn Trk lost one out of three,Even Gentile wich is a breba only fig lost two out of four.
Only one fig so far is keeping all breba:Osborn Prollific,still has six out of six,of a size of a mature KIWY fruit now.
So this is my fig story ,But please if your Breba Mature and are full flavor post it so we will know wich variety really hold on the Breba.
If we know for sure we can put that particular fig in the GARAGE for winter and have early figs.
Regards

Steve most of the trees did die back. This gives me a bit of hope that I will get some fruit. If I do hopefully there will be enough time for it to ripen before we get a freeze. I might have to buy some different varities to grow in containers that can go in the greenhouse over the winter.

You may also consider wrapping your in-ground plants this winter ... the attached thread in this forum discusses my wrapping testing from last winter.

-Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Results of winter wrapping tests

I planted a brown turkey fig in the ground last spring. It grew well and I covered it over winter in a very heavy coat of straw. It survived the winter with no problems, and is now about 5 feet high (growing in a bush form) and setting quite a lot of fruit. I'm a fig novice, but my guess is that two factors played a role here: first, that I did not cut the fig back, so it got a real head start in the spring, and second, that it is growing in heavy clay soil. I have noticed in various books the idea that figs will fruit best if the root growth is somewhat constrained.

I think if you just hang in there with the tree all will be well.

I took another look at my figs and saw that there is quite a bit of growth off of last years wood so I guess it didn't die completely back. I took a pic hoping that someone could tell if the tree looks like it's healthy and is growing properly. This is pretty much what all the trees look like. I might just be destined not to have any figs :(

O Yea,Well if you just look at it you may be destined not to have any fruits.You had all kinds of good advice ,all you got to do is apply it!!!!.

karyn, what Herman said - but here's another idea for you, in addition to trying what folks have recommended: get yourself a cutting (or two or three) off your trees and see if you can root them in the following weeks (there's a ton of advice on how to do that). Grow the cuttings *in pots* where the roots can be constricted, and (once they're established) let them have a spot where they get plenty of sunlight (did you ever tell us how much sun your trees get? if they're in too much shade, they might have great leaves but not fruit, so that might be a factor, but yours looks like it's in full sun at least by the picture). If you can overwinter the figs-from-cuttings in a safe area from year to year, I'm guessing you'll have fruit faster (in comparison) on the potted cuttings you start, and that way you'll at least get to taste the fruit off your fig trees while waiting for the in-ground ones to get up to production speed. It's worth a try. Don't give up!!

Sherry

Thanks for the advice. I actually am trying to root a few cuttings from what I pruned off the trees last week. All but one of the trees gets almost a full day of direct sun. I'm trying what has been mentioned. I've pruned back most of the trees, given lime to all (earlier in the season) and fertilized a couple. Hopefully at least one tree will cooperate. If I don't get any fruit this year I'll probably get some different varities and try them in containers, along with the BT cuttings, if they root.

Too many (big) leaves, > too many wet;
Too much distance between knots: > too poor for sun and heat.
Also: needs: no grass around, and no shade.
Ground has to be DRY and well drained.
Excuse my imperfect language.
Sergio

Sergio what do I do about big leaves? Do I cut the largest ones off? How can I decrease the space between knots (Do you mean between each leaf)? They get full sun and there is no grass around them. There are a couple small hydrangea bushes about 3 feet away on either side of each tree. They are in a very dry part of the yard in clay soil. I don't know how well the soil drains because it's clay but there's never any standing water when it rains and I don't give them any additional water. Nothing to excuse, your English is just fine and I appreciate the advice.

I have a potted Brown Turkey tree. The 1st yr. I got several little fruit but they fell off. This year it is growing nice. I have it in my screened in patio away from the squirrels. I am worried the fruit ( if I get any ) will fall off again. Do I water it if the potting feels dry ? Do I need to trim it ? & if so how. I'am new at fig growing & need help. Thank you.