making fig pickin' gizmos
girlbug2
13 years ago
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Suzi AKA DesertDance So CA Zone 9b
13 years agothisisme
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Mr. Shot
Comments (69)Mornin' all! That is some purty pictures! All my corn (except HK) has made and mowed down. I'm leaving the HK alone to mature and dry on the stalk then I'm gonna gather some and try my hand at grinding some grits & meal. Finally I'm gonna gather some ears for shelling for seeds. A few days ago we got over ½ inch of needed rain. Not too worried about it as just my peas has to finish up. The pinkeyes are making and some been picked. The white acres are blooming now. Remember corn loves nitrogen & water. Hard to buy pure (34%) nitrogen anymore since the bombing out in Oklahoma. The deer are getting brave as they are coming out before dark for supper. Guess I'm gonna have to break out the guns... even a wild turkey was out back of the house a few daya ago. It was a hen so I let her go as she may have eggs somewhere. Didn't see any little ones with her. Love this thread, but I'm thinking that we may have to start a new one as this one is getting quite lenghty. Thanks all for posting and keeping us up to date on your gardens. Shot...See MoreFinal Blueberry Varieties
Comments (30)For many of the newer cultivars, the lines between NHB, RE, and SHB are being blurred and made obsolete. Cara's Choice in point: A cross between 1) A cross of NHB (primarly) and NLB that is considered a NHB (Darrow X sibling of Bluecrop), and 2) RE, SLB, and a high-bush like species from N. GA (a different form of SHB than the traditional RE X NHB?). In it's lineage includes V. corymbosum, V. angustfolium, V. darrowii, V. vergatum (ashei), and V. constablaei. The cross was made about 1977, even though not introduced until 2000. Imagine what more complex crosses are in the works since 1977. Except for legacy cultivars, I think the NHB, SHB, and RE are mostly useful for classifying, generally, what zones they can be grown in. The usefulness of the classification is being diminished by hybridization. Fruitnut: I thought I had read somewhere, in relation to peaches, that low-chill varieties grown in high chill areas can escape variable spring weather better than some high-chill varieties. I thought the idea was that it took longer for the low-chill varieties to break bud. Am I misunderstanding that? Would not the same principle (if it even is one) apply to blueberries? In regards to the question of how to get IndigoCrisp, Raven, etc, there would be a legal route, via formation of a partnership with covenants to abide by non-propagation and non-sale. I have contemplated throwing this out there before, but haven't yet decided it's worth my time to draft up a partnership agreement, form the escrow account, and reship purchased plants. It's the last point that would be the most arduous. Lots of irons in the fire already....See MoreWanted Paradiso & Atreano Fig
Comments (7)ourhappyhome: .......... Just now saw your request for information re: "ATREANO" The trees that I got from Burnt Ridge Nursery were about 12"-18" high...full of roots, and healthy! I ordered the trees last June, and planted them as soon as they arrived. Within three weeks they were well on their way to becoming good sized fig trees. In fact, I had to pinch out a small crop of embryo figs from the treelets. I wanted all the strength to go into making bio-mass, roots, etc, and not fruit. I'm sure with good culture and correct climate, you'll be pickin' figs in no time at all! Treelets were very vigorous growers, and nursery staff were great. Good luck. By the way, I planted all three trees into one large container, and will train the mainstems into one composite "trunk". Now, with this method, I'll have all the trees in one pot and three times the fruiting potential in a small area, instead of spread out in three separate plantings/pots. This makes the trees easier to take care of, ...watering-wise feeding, spraying for plant pests, and, winter storage in my unheated shed. Hope this helps....See MoreLSU Fig Pics
Comments (30)Vivian, From my own observations........ There is a MAJOR problem with trying to ID fig cultivars by using leaf pattern alone. Leaf patterns of many cultivars are GREATLY affected by their rate of growth. Leaves on RAPIDLY growing trees (or branches of a tree) will often display a higher and more pronounced lobed leaf pattern than when it is more mature or slow growing. For example.....on trees that are known to display a 3 or 5 lobed leaf pattern......you will find that rapidly growing suckers on that tree will be of 5 lobes and more deeply cut. Also, when that tree is heavily fertilized, the tree will form more 5 lobed leaves than 3. Bottom line......growing conditions can greatly affect fig leaf patterns and can make it difficult to ID a particular cultivar only from leaves. Also, the distance between nodes is usually controlled by the growth rate of the tree. Slower growing trees (less fertilizer, less water, poorer soil, etc.) will usually have the nodes closer together. A tree growing in rich soil or heavily fertilized will have the nodes farther apart. From the looks of your tree, you are taking very good care of it by evidence of its apparent rapid growth and the distance between the nodes. Smith leaves definitely can look just like the ones pictured on your container tree. However, on a slower growing tree the leaves may not be as deeply cut as yours and will look like a 3 lobed leaf pattern. I just checked my tree and can tell you that on really slow growing branches the leaves can look like they are single lobed. It is highly likely that your tree is a Smith....but, one cannot be 100% certain from leaf pattern alone. Hope this helps and does not confuse. Dan...See Moregiants_2007
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