I occassionally have this issue because we have a lot of humidity and it affects all my plants, not just tomatoes, like you. I regularly use fungicide until I start seeing fruit on my plants and then I regularly spray a milk/water mixture (concentration 1:1) on my entire garden. nothing can "cure" it, but I've been told the milk keeps the spores from affecting the unaffected leaves. Basically the point is to just control it so that my plants can grow ahead of it....if that makes sense. I also discovered I have a calcium deficiency in my garden so I make sure to add eggs to my compost and I add bone meal at the time of planting.....after starting to do that a couple of years ago, the healthier plants can help keep the spores at bay.....I can't move my garden and can only do so much rotation, so I have resigned myself to accept that humidity is going to be my worst friend....but at least the last couple of years my garden has been producing well and I don't get frustrated with all the hard work and nothing to show for it.

You're quite welcome. There is always a solution - or at least a way to make it better - with color. Especially exterior. Funcolors I went back to SW store. I compared the Creamy SW 7012 and the Dover White SW 6385 to the brick. As you suggested the Site White does nothing to bring balance. Whereas the creamy and dover you picked make it all come together. How did you know that? I know Site White well. It's a pale gray - it's not white and a pale gray wouldn't relate to the brick in any way. It relates to the roof but we want to make choices that creates visual bridges and enhances color relationships with the brick, not the roof. You have a cool, neutral color tolerance/preference and those are the colors you gravitate toward. Site White is a similar kind of color choice as the roof color that started the whole thing. Dover and Creamy are very close, I think you see color on broader terms now and can make the call as to which one, Creamy or Dover, relates to the brick the best. Dover is a great ext. trim color. Funcolors above you touched on putting a faux finish on the textured aluminum garage door. What product would you suggest to accomplish it. I would like to explore that possibility. That would be up to the pro finisher you hire to do the work. I honestly don't know because I don't do finishes. It's also similar to regular paint product choices. I don't ever tell a painter what products to use exterior. As long as it's a top brand and best grade I make color work on their product terms. Because the pro painter is the one who has to work with the product and guarantee the job. Not me. You recommended I need an orange color to make things work. Please see the attached link for a sample of the walnut color. What is your advice regarding the best color to work with. If I were there to do it for you, I'd have the SW guys mix a custom stain. Their instruction would be to mix up something that looked as if it were comprised of 50% Walnut and 50% Cherrywood. Something that looked like their SW Wood Classics Warm Chestnut or Cinnamon. But you're on you're own and Walnut is a perfectly fine choice. It does have the right undertone - might be a little too dark brown. . . but I'm being picky and a perfectionist.

Ahhh Cori Ann, I share your enthusiasm; the late fall flush is so nice to observe especially after a late summer hammering by CLM! I use a combination of sprays, powders, shovels, guns, and an assortment cloths, lamps and screens (for freezes). - that is - when I can get to it. Some of it works only some of the time so I may just shut the windows and not look until February. BTW: if your Meyers are not pushing new growth of a pretty, dark reddish-tint color (during the main growing sessions), they are not getting enough food.

Need help regarding my Plumeria. I bought a 2 branch rooted cutting last spring and it did wonderful aside from a little stress (was dropping older leaves) it showed from the above average temperatures and frequent heavy rains. Anyway, spring seemed to take forever to get her this year so I ended up moving it from the dark corner in the basement and put it under a strong growlight to bring it out of dormancy. It got a late start but within a month I saw leaves begin to emerge from both branches. Once it was warm enough to move outside I accidentally damaged one of the growing tips during the move. It soon showed signs of rot so I cut the tip off about 3 inches below rhe rot. The other branch is doing just fine and Ive been waiting all summer to see what would happen with the branch I cut. Today I noticed a bud starting to emerge from rhe cut stem about 4 inches below the cut. My question is, do I do anything with the extra 4 inches. I'm happy about the new grown but the one branch will always be shorter and I'm not excited about that extra inches of stub above the emerging branch. Can I at some point trim that back further or is it best to just live with the stub?