HI J, I have 3 peach trees. All have fruited in 2-3 years. I did not really amend the soil except for adding some top soil to fill the holes because I did not have enough native soil to put back. In my areas, rocks grow best. Rocks and boulders are everywhere when you dig a hole. I've fertilized the tree a bit in the spring each of the following years. I don't want to fertilize too much. If I were you, I'd get rid of competing weed around each tree and mulch it. Your apple tree looks stunted. A 3 yrs old apple tree should not look like that even in your type of soil. Not sure why, but you may want to consider relocating it. The soil in my yard is also land fill. The trees still grow decently. As for apple fruiting, I have apple trees that have fruited in 2nd and 3rd year on semi-dwarf rootstocks. My Honey Crisp is on an unknown rootstock. It must be at least 6 years old now but still have not fruited. My guess is it's on a standard rootstock which will take much longer. Make sure you have another variety of apple that blooms about the same time to cross pollinate. If there are crab apple trees in your neighborhood, you'd be all set.

My suggestion is, to replant them into balcony boxes of 50 or 60 cm length, not the cheapest brand but the more voluminous instead - at 2 lines à6 to 8 Bulbs each, iow 12 to 16 bulbs per box. The advantage is, you can always relocate them to the most suitable spot (perfectly where it is bright but the Sun does not "burn") and it will be the easiest to control the crop continually. I have excellent experience with this method. The balcony boxes I use are from plastics and I drill numerous additional holes into the bottom of them for better aeration from below. And I exclusively water 1)from the bottom, using 2)lukewarm water with diluted feeding (0.3 g/L continually) which particular TWO ESSENTIAL détail of my husbandry regimen proved very beneficial for the growth of the crop and for the health of the bulbs, provided I keep the boxes safe from rain. Over the years I found out that a VERY important environmental factor is the TEMPERATURE of the SUBSTRATE; 23ðCelsius (73ðFahrenheit) PERMANENTLY (day-and-night) during the growth period appear to be the optimum for the majority of Hippeastrums, and everybody who reads this and who was, hitherto, not as, or not-at-all, satisfied with the growth of THEIR crop, should try to optimize this environmental condition. The air temperature is naturally subject to bigger fluctuations, and generally, lower temperatures will lead to better quality of leaves, particularly indoors where light conditions are poorer - the crucial thing is the temperatures at the bulb and root level. This post was edited by haweha on Sat, Jul 26, 14 at 8:18

Citrus grown from seeds may take anywhere from 3 to 10 years to bloom, depending on the variety. I'm not educated as to how long each variety can take. They have an internal clock which tells them when they are old enough to bloom. I grew a Key lime from seed about 4 or 5 years ago. Two years ago I had 3 blooms, no fruit. Last year I had 20 or 30 blooms and one lime which eventually dropped off. This year the tree was full of blooms, had lots of limes and many fell off when I didn't water but I have a dozen which are ripening now. It has just re-bloomed and is setting new fruit. My Ponderosa lemon bloomed the second year and set a bumper crop of fruit the third year. Because it came from a cutting, the internal clock thought it was mature enough to bloom. I'm not sure where you are located but I would fertilize with Miracid about every 2-3 months and with Epsom salts to encourage blooms. It is about time that your tree gives you a big surprise.

Pomegranate seedlings are notorious for sparse or doubled blooms and little or no fruit. Best to plant named varieties for this type of fruit.