How does one start a new hybrid of fig tree?
terry_upstate_ny
10 years ago
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fignewbies
9 years agoterry_upstate_ny
9 years agoRelated Discussions
How small is too small to start a new tree?
Comments (24)Yeah, Tom has it right. Nothing is too small. Let me tell the story of my "dixie cup" tree. Near the town of Hyattstown, MD--not to be confused with Hyattsville, MD, there was an old house with two Norway spruce trees planted in front as traditional German "bride and groom" trees. These two trees, when I first saw them, made me think of the giant conifers of the Pacific N.W. I visited these trees from time to time just to see how they were doing and to admire their magnificence. One of the last times I saw these trees the house had been abandoned and it was spring, so I thought I would scrounge around and see if I could find any seedlings. Well, I found a few, but they were so very, very small--really just seeds that had germinated just about a week before. No green except the little ring of cotyledons. I put them in little plantic coffee cups that I found by the roadside (not actually dixie cups) and took them home and planted them in my garden. One soon died. Another lived for a little over a year, and the third I have growing now at my place in Winchester. After it grew in my garden in Arlington for about 4 years, I moved it to my timberland place where it grew for three more years and then I moved it to my place in Winchester. It almost died from my fertilizer mistake three years ago, but is now in full recovery mode. I really treasure this little thing--maybe not so little now. So--nothing is too small, even for transplanting. The other two seedlings died, probably because they were not the product of cross pollination. A pair of trees NS growing alone is usually not a good source for seed that will produce good strong trees. But these trees were so magnificent, I had to try to find something. I say "were" because the one that was slightly smaller has died--and I have not seen the other one for more than 10 years now. --Spruce...See MoreStarting new figs
Comments (9)Ditto on the overwatering - I "drowned" more promising new cuttings than I care to think about :-( - they need to be in a VERY quick-draining potting mixture (you don't want anything that stays soggy at all, better to mist lightly every day than to have something that can go three or four days between moistening), and once they get started with leaves, don't assume you have any roots to go with them yet. Until you can *see* roots and the leaves are going like gangbusters and are very large and vigorous, you need to keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and if anything, underwater them. I'm going to be trying a new system of foliar feeding using the kelp/fish emulsion fertilizer I'd heard touted in other forums (bought some the other day) and try to avoid adding water to the root systems (minimal as they might be) for as long as I can. Also do NOT give them a larger pot until they are virtually rootbound in whatever container you started them in. These are my learn-by-experience recommends, and definitely jiving with what Dave said. Plus, as has been mentioned in another thread currently running, take off the breba figs when they are smaller than pea size, let the fig get its roots and leaves going first for a season - hope this helps. Sherry...See MoreFig tree training questions for my new trees
Comments (1)Hi Scott, Most in here will tell you not to let your tree get over X feet to make harvest easier. For me, 10 feet seems to be about the magic number (that is about the limit of my reach on a step stool). Last year, at a Master Gardeners lecture, the presenter said that a five foot fruit zone is ideal. Meaning from the lowest fruiting limb to the highest, should be about a five feet distance. I do not remember why they indicated it was ideal, but it does seem to work for me. Whatever height seems most comfortable to you, subtract 6 feet from that and that is about where you want to snip the leading bud (assuming your trees are already as single trunk). Below your cut, you should have 3 or 4 branches going in different directions. These will be the scaffold branches for the crown of your tree. You want to make sure you remove any limbs below your scaffold branches. This will limit the amount of fruit you have early on. After your scaffold branches have a years worth of growth. Prune them to about 9-18 inches (whatever looks good to you). In subsequent years, pinching the new growth after the sixth leaf, as Herman has discussed, is a good method to control growth ~james...See MoreFigs are spongy inside
Comments (2)Hi, herman2: Your reply on the another post on this forum-``How does one start a new hybrid of fig tree?`` is very interesting! I don`t have a male caprifig so I cannot conduct the experiment. Hi, pattyg50: If you have a scientific interest you can read the above post on ``how to start a new hybrid of fig tree`` written by herman2. Since you have a male caprifig as herman2 said, you can get 2 female figs tree to try crossing your male caprifig!...See Moreherman2_gw
9 years agoterry_upstate_ny
9 years agofignewbies
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9 years agoAmericanFigLover
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9 years ago
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