It is possible you have a variety that will not mature fruit without a wasp that does not live in MD (or most places for that matter) to pollinate them. If you have another location in mind, you might want to plant a known variety in that location and see what happens with your current tree.

I have removed a 10ish year old fig tree from the ground. The thickest root I encountered was about an inch thick, and it was still very pliable. There were relatively few roots that were 1/2+ thick. The root system is rather fibrous and there are many thin roots rather than a few large roots. If you want to move your tree and the tree hasn't broken dormancy, use a ditch spade to cut the roots in a ring 18-24" in diameter and replant in the spot you want. Keep the roots moist while out of the ground and stake when you have finished planting it until the roots anchor the tree sufficiently.

~james

You could grow a duplicate tree from cuttings and plant it where you think it will do better.

Thanks for the advice. I will try the cutting route first. The base of the tree has very substantial branches, but i probably can dig around it as recommended with a ditch spade if I do decide to move it to another location. Thanks for the tips.

The fig begins to produce after twoo-three year, but excess of manure(overall azotate) retards fruitings, and produces more growth in branches and roots (bad thing for a plant in pot).
Also excess of watering helps growth and damage the fruiting.
Make cuttings and carry, in the pot, less azotate manure, instead adequate in other elements, and less watering.
S