It split when I bent it downward to lay her flat last fall. Apparently, I didnt cut enough roots when I folded her over.

I figured it'd be dead but the branches are still limber/green.

Every season I seem to have some bad luck with these trees.

Ouch. That hurts to even look at. Do you plan on putting any sort of anti-fungal or anti-bacterial stuff into those wounds? I'd think something like that could easily get infected.

me personally, i would put some anti funal stuff in the crack, wrap it with 1 layer of news paper then duct tape the whole thing real good. then at the top of the split where it starts of normal (not broke) i would start an air layer. now you will loose the broken part but not the whole tree.

kevin

Last year, just as figs were beginning to ripen, someone pulled on a limb of one of my fig trees to get at a ripe fig, and broke it. It was hanging on by nothing more than bark. We tied it back together with what we had that was handy, a piece of clothsline, and it finished out the season giving us many ripe figs. So, if I were in your position, that is what I'd do. Plus, this Summer you should get some sucker growth from around the base, and this could be the start of a new trunk.

Fortisi,

Here is what I would do, and I think it would work pretty good.

1. Remove and spinters from withing the tree that keep you from closing it shut

2. Buy some metal automotive hose clamps and put about 4 around all parts that are split.

3. Wait.

The clamps would work better then the rope to tie it together. Also put a plant stake next to the tree and strap it to keep the tree from wiggling any further. I have fixed these things before.

Hi Frank,

I'm sorry this happened. I hope you can salvage the tree. Is this the unknown fig that came from your father? I have two little plants from the cuttings you sent me almost a year ago. They are small but growing very fast this year. Good luck with your damaged tree.

Henry

Thanks for all the advice folks!

Ive been working all sorts of crazy hours lately so I just got around to doing something today. For now, (& before checking the site here) I decided to use some spare rope I had, actually the same stuff I tied all the limbs up with and wrapped it tight around the trunk from the bottom up to the fork. I did not use any anti-fungal stuff, I may go and buy some.

loslunas- in your experience does the wound heal itself or is it something that will always need to be wrapped?

Henry- no it was not the unknown that my dad planted for me, this is actually a 4' established tree that my uncle gave me exactly 1 yr ago this month.

I think I like the air layering idea have always wanted to give that a try. At the very least I may try doing that with atleast one limb so I can lop one off it'll probably take some of the strain away.

fortisi876 : I would use some number 6 stainless-steel, flat-head screws to pull both sides of that crack together. Then you'll have the trunk diameter back to original size. Go to where they sell marine-grade hardware and get the stainless-steel screws that look like "drywall screws" ... with threads running full length, right up to the head. The screws must be VERY THIN IN DIAMETER! Drill a pilot-hole before driving the screw into the first half of the split stem, then into the other half. You'll want the threads to grip the second half of the split trunk. Be careful as you tighten up on the screws or you'll wind up splitting the trunk where the screws enter the wood!!!!! Cut off any extra screw sticking-out past the trunk line so you don't cut/or stab your hands. Judging by the picture, that's a good 10" or longer split. Use at least 4 to 5 screws evenly spaced along that crack. I'd put a screw right through the middle of that fork, and then, a screw a few inches below the first screw, then 3 to 4 more along the crack.

As the tree grows this season, the bark will heal right over the screws, and the crack will eventually disappear.
The more wild growth the tree makes, the more new wood and bark the tree will make. The split will heal quickly.
I've done this type of " trunk-repair " in the past, and it works.

I am sure that other fig people mentioned cuttings and/or
air layering, as best recovery for the fig tree. The sharp
top "Y" branching contributed towards the splitting
(a known fact - avoid that in the future!). If it was
me, I would concentrate all my EFFORTS in the (easier)
reproducing rather than saving the original...
George (NJ).

Frank,

As George suggested, reproducing (airlayering, if possible) the tree is an almost sure way to have a healthy plant and not be very far behind in terms of development. Last year was my first time to airlayer, and I am nothing short of amazed at some of the plants I have right now that were no more than a branch on another tree less than one year ago. Several of them look more like 2 yr. old trees starting their 3rd year than they do plants that were progatated less than a year ago. When I started airlayering last year Leon was kind and patient enough to provide me with some instructions and guidance. He told me it was virtually foolproof. I figured I would surely prove that untrue :) Well, he was right. I probably did at least two dozen airlayers last year - from 1/2" branches to 1 1/4" branches - with 100% success. Also, (and I really don't understand this) I airlayered two large branches from a 10 yr. old tree that has suffered from FMV pretty badly all its life. Those two airlayers have fully leafed out this year with zero signs of FMV. Maybe someone like Al, George, Gene, Leon or someone else with more experience can explain that.

Geez, I didn't mean to be so long.

Henry

As a BONUS, after any cuttings/air-layering successes;
just cut the whole thing at soil level. Then watch the
basal suckers spring up like crazy....

Henry (or anyone else), I remember reading about your airlayering success last yr, looking at the pics above how would you go about doing it? (ie. material, soil type, etc)

I liked FDV's suggestion with the ss screws and will probably get that done this weekend. I'd rather not have to start from scratch again since this tree actually produced nicely last season, it's first since transplanted. However, depending on how successful my airlayering attempt works out that may persuade me to try it again with the other half.

Thnx all for the advice/tips!

I usually just lurk here these days, since so many fig forum contributers are so knowledgable that I think their ideas are better than mine can be, but thought I would add my 2 cents here.

I think that the narrow "Y" crotch is the cause of your problem because it causes a weak area that the growing branches bush apart. Further growth of the branches will weaken the tree more. Regardless of how you choose to heal the lower portion of the split, I would cut off the weaker side just above the crotch, and leave the stronger branch to grow as the main trunk.

I would not use a method that might girdle the tree permanantly. There is some thought that girdling by removal of a strip of bark will improve fruit size and quality in some types of trees, but I have not seen anthing about the effects of girdling by compressive methods (tight wire or hose clamps). I think that string or rope has more give, and screws should not be much of a problem. Similar for bolts that go all of the way through.

Possibly suckers will grow, and it might be wise to allow them to continue, either as bush form or choose the best one as an eventual replacement.

I liked the screw idea, but I do think that the removal of the weaker side of the fork, just below the branch point, is key to saving the rest of the tree.

Good luck with whichever method that you try!

FORTISI 876; ET.AL. ........... THE FORK WAS THE SOURCE FOR ALL OF YOUR PROBLEMS. THAT FORK SHOULD'VE NEVER BEEN ALLOWED TO DEVELOP. IF YOU DO NOT DRIVE SCREWS INTO THAT FORK TO HOLD THE TWO SIDES FROM SPLITTING, IT WILL ALWAYS BE A SOURCE FOR GRIEF. ALL BAD FORKS AND CROTCHES SHOULD BE PRUNED AWAY BEFORE THEY DEVELOP INTO POTENTIAL PROBLEMS. I SEE TREES LIKE YOURS IN NURSERIES ALL THE TIME.

JUST DRIVE TWO SCREWS INTO THE FORK SLIGHTLY LOWER THAN THE SPLIT, AT THE CROTCH, AND THEN ANOTHER SCREW, LOWER DOWN, ABOUT 1-1/2" BELOW THE FIRST SCREW. THIS TAKES ALL THE SPLITTING POTENTIAL OFF THE TWO SIDES OF THE TRUNK. MORE SCREWS ALONG THIS CRACK WILL CLOSE IT UP PERMANTLY AS THE BARK HEALS OVER.

GOOD LUCK!!! FDV