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Rocks instead of mulch around Arborvitaes

13 years ago

I have 17 Emerald Green Arborvitaes I just planted 2 weeks ago as a screen near my fence line and I've been told the mulch should be placed over the soil to retain the moisture for my trees. Problem is I have 2 boxers who ignore the trees but love to eat the mulch. I'm wondering if it would be safe to use small rocks instead of the mulch to cover the soil. The rocks range in size from 2-5 inch in diameter. Also if the rocks wouldn't be appropriate any suggestions on what other materials to use would be greatly appreciated since I am a newbie to this gardening world. Thanks again.

Featured Answer

Embothrium

13 years ago

Anything non-toxic that forms a non-smothering layer between the soil and sky assists plant growth. But what if the dogs decide to dig beneath the rocks? Larger rocks, like cobbles (drain rock) are less likely to be moved around.

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Comments (7)

texjagman
13 years ago
I don't know your particulars as far as location...direct sun...shade....how many really hot days....etc. But one real concern with using rock as mulch is it can transfer the heat directly into the soil and overheat the roots as well as over dry the soil.

I have labs that have been bark eaters from time to time and we use red eucalyptus mulch and they don't want anything to do with it. Don't know if it's the color, the oils, or what but it has worked for us.

mark
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Downsides: - does nothing to improve soil condition or fertility as organic mulches do - migrates to other areas (like lawns) unless contained with a permanent edging material and even that's no guarantee - much harder to weed and keep weeded than an organic mulch - still need to be replenished from time to time as the rock can sink and become incorporated into the soil. - more difficult to add or alter plantings and to dig and divide perennials. Inorganic/rock mulches must be removed for this activity, while organic mulches can just be dug into the soil. Most professionals and a good many non-professionals hold a very dim view of weed barrier/landscape cloth or mesh. Mostly because it doesn't really work all that effectively and it's more difficult to plant with. I am also of the opinion based on my experience with the stuff that it impedes oxygen and water penetration to the root zone, inhibits the use of granular fertilizers and deflects the impact of a a fertile topdressing like compost, therefore plants just don't thrive to the same degree they do without weed cloth. Personally, I would never use it in a planting bed but only as a underlayment for some sort of hardscaping (walkways, patios, etc.)
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If I may, I would urge you to reconsider Norway maple. A bad invasive thug in N. America, I'm afraid. One or two of your other ideas may be less winter-hardy than your locale requires, but no harm in trying. But Norway maple escapes from cultivation via seeds, and into the woods it goes, crowding out native tree types. That's not hypothesis....this is really happening in places like New England, Wisconsin, Michigan, etc. No reason why the same would not happen down by you.
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Mulch adds more hiding and breeding space for insects, but there are other conditions that attract unwanted insects to your yard. At the same time, if there are a lot of insects, you might then get beneficial visitors like lizards and lady bugs, too. Even spiders and praying mantises. I would say that if you liked how the previous owner did it and were happy with the results, you can do the same again, because mulch looks good for the first few weeks after you apply it. Later, you will get weeds poking out from it, or the color will have drained a bit and not look as new and fresh. You probably also have to apply mulch again every 1-2 years, depending on how much you did it the first time. Getting new mulch near the base of plants is hard (or even not recommended) so that basically means that it's a place where weeds can come up from.
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dcsteg
13 years ago
On the other side of the coin I use pea gravel, pond gravel 3/4-1 inch in size and larger boulders in my garden for 12 years with no adverse effects.

Dave
baxswoh
13 years ago
I am starting to use a product similar to pea gravel. Here it is called pipe fill sand. Other places I have heard it called waste sand. It is a course sand with pea gravel in it. It does not heat up the soil here. To the contrary it cools my roots in summer. It is also more reflective of the light than the pine bark mulch I used to use. Wonder if Dave has noticed any temp. difference with his gravel.
dcsteg
13 years ago
" Wonder if Dave has noticed any temp. difference with his gravel"

If there is any there has been no noticeable effect on the plants.

Dave
Embothrium
13 years ago
Rocks are hot on top but cool underneath.

As an aside, note that when no controls are present there is no basis for comparison. Not needed in this case but the way to test the question would be to plant half the plants with rocks and half without, using all the same kind of plant, from the same batch and with all other factors being equal. You have to eliminate variables before a pattern can be accurately observed.

The common example where people swear by a gardening myth is amending of planting hole back-fill. If their plants survive the amending and grow, then that proves that the amending was helpful. None of the other plants in the planting were planted without amendments, so there is no basis for comparison. But they just know the amending produced a better result. It seems like it would be helpful, so it must be.
gardener365
13 years ago
Here's an interesting idea. See photo two.

Dax

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting

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