The baffling popularity of certain fig varieties
girlbug2
14 years ago
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Suzi AKA DesertDance So CA Zone 9b
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Fig tree has lost its will to live
Comments (12)brandon7, I hate to disagree with you but Ficus caria is classified as a deciduous tree and in my opinion may display semi-deciduous characteristics in tropical climates. I don't know of any credible literature that describes Ficus Caria as an evergreen. The process of losing leaves is called abscission. In the case of the majority of the lower 48, leaf loss coincides with winter. However, in other areas of the world, plants lose their leaves during the dry season or during other seasonal variations in rainfall. I think that vmzral experienced one of those triggers while growing his/her fig indoors and the plant went dormant. I hope vmzral follows up this post with the rest of the story when it becomes known. Here is a link that might be useful: California Rare Fruit Growers ficus carica...See MoreFigs in Maryland????
Comments (27)Rlbloom, this "abnormally normal" winter did in many a fig that has been in the ground for years, but never experienced temps as low as we had this year. There's a good chance, though, that the roots survived. Keep a watch for growth down low, or even from below ground. I've seen trees push new growth as late as June after being winter-killed. That being said, if growth doesn't start by the end of this month, it may not have time to harden off before NEXT winter, and would be killed again. If you do get new growth, trim the existing branch structure to give the new growth as much sun as possible. Once you see what's going to sprout, thin the new growth to 3 to 5 sprouts. You don't want the roots trying to support a jungle after being so stressed. To insure that the growth will harden off, pinch out the growing tips every time 5-7 new full-sized leaves form on each sprout. This will cause the growth below to begin to lignify (harden and form bark), as well as insuring a full, bushy, shrubby growth. DON'T fertilize until next year, it only stresses the plant more. John...See MoreDan's Figs --- 2010 Season
Comments (91)Last couple of days I have been spitting out most figs that I tried eating. Sweetness and flavor is much diminished as the cool weather has taken its toll. Hardy Chicago, quite a few figs got hanging ripe. However, flavor was much muted. These were barely edible figs. VDB still has flavor but sweetness is gone. Some figs are developing a green mold....first time I have seen mold on any of my figs. Fico Negra, two figs fell soon after they started to color and soften. Nice size beautiful fig with blocked eye, red pulp, no voids in the pulp. I was glad to see no void on the inside of this fig. Did have some flavor and a little sweetness; however, they definitely were not ripe enough. This cultivar has very large stems. Malta Purple, my young potted tree produced a very good tasting fig for me this morning. This cultivar will likely be excellent tasting in my area given how good it tastes right now from a young plant. Native Black, sweetness and flavor has diminished quiet a bit. These figs continue to ripen dark black in color and are still edible. Unknown Late Green (possibly a La. heirloom fig), figs were good tasting. Eye is closed and interior is deep dark red. This one is a small fig and is different than the other green figs that are in my collection. Pastillier, all figs fell of my tree this year. Maybe will taste one next year. Panachee, I had about a dozen figs on my tree this year and was hoping to taste at least one. These figs all disappeared one day and I can guess where they went. My grandson and his friend likely took them to show them to their pals. They were fascinated with them figs looking like little hot air balloons. A bit disappointed, but if they did that.....it is OK if it keeps them interested in figs. I had given them permission to eat any ripe fig they saw in my yard. Dan...See MoreSo which varieties are you growing this year?
Comments (33)Gardenlad, from what I have heard & read, the chances of beans cross-pollinating vary greatly. In some locations (perhaps yours) crossing is virtually non-existent. Then there are years when it is widespread, even where it was normally rare. So different people around the country can make completely opposite claims about crossing - and each be right, for their own area. Tomatoes are the same way... but that is another topic. I suspect that most often, these differences are due to variations in the local pollinator population, and the availability of other pollen & nectar sources nearby. My main pollinators are bumblebees (which are quite common here), and "sweat bees". The good news is that bumblebees pollinate everything, including my limas & scarlet runners, which do nothing until they appear. The bad news is that they can _cross_ pollinate everything. For me, crosses are fairly frequent, unless I take preventive measures. My garden now is perhaps 25-30% vertical; I trellis everything I can, and where I have a choice between bush legumes & pole, I generally choose pole. I plan the trellises to create "baffles" to confuse pollinators, and as windbreaks to protect tender crops (another topic). I have observed bumblebees feeding. Unlike honeybees, which will generally visit only one specific type of flower at a time, bumblebees work the whole garden... so interplanting different species as baffles to one another, and interplanting flowers that are "bee plants" throughout the garden, is very effective for me. I use a combination of marigold, cosmos, cleome, sunflowers, basil, and a blooming mallow (Malva sylvestra). All but the marigold & basil have naturalized, so I just transplant them as necessary. And some of the trellised cucurbits are also good bee plants; bitter melon (Momordica charantia) and the vine sold as "Mexican sour gherkin" (Melothria scabra) seem especially attractive to bees, and tend not to attract cucumber beetles. As gardeners, whenever we save seed, we walk a fine line; we want to attract pollinators for our outbreeding plants (like squash, melons, cukes & cabbages), but not allow them to contaminate our inbreeding plants (beans, peas, peppers, tomatoes). The Jimenez bean, I suspect, has some trait that makes it more susceptible to cross-pollination, much the same as some tomatoes (cherries & potato-leaf) are more likely to cross. Larger or more open flowers, perhaps. I have heard good reviews of the variety, so I may try it again (hopefully with pure seed) and will study the blossoms closely....See Moregirlbug2
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