High probability of loss - yes. Worth keeping? Probably not, but pics would probably help and it's really up to you. Do you have a replacement or can you afford to replace it? Does the big-box store offer a return policy? Pines are tough but recovery for most conifers from serious stress can be difficult.

-Will

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I can afford to replace it. In hindsight, I think it was more than simply the ill-timed transplanting that killed it (although that hurt it, no question), but I'm thinking that in addition that particular location isn't very white pine friendly. The spot is "wetter" than I anticipated. So it was probably a combination of the summer transplant and waterlogged roots.

The pine in question has many, many branches that are browned all the way out to the tips. If it's a goner, maybe a bald cypress would do better there?

I'll see if I can get a pic of the tree.

Your pine is toast.

If you can find a suitable replacement from your local nursery I would go ahead and plant this fall. Mulch to the drip line and no amendments. When soil dry down to second knuckle... water...I slow trickle with hose over night then repete the process till ground freezes.

Fall plantings will be settled in by spring which in turn enhances it's chances of survival.

Dave

I've been monitoring the moisture in the root zone using my finger, as you suggested. But I wonder, what do you think of those electronic moisture meters? I recently purchased one that says my two "still alive" pines are sufficiently wet deep in the root ball despite the fact that I can't sink my fingers very far into the ball from the top. These were b&b trees, field grown in soil with heavy sand... stuff doesn't really depress even when it's wet.. it has to be dug out with a fingernail...

A Taxodium or Metasequoia do seem like the better choices.

Do yourself a favor and look at the buds... I doubt it will recover but if the buds aren't dried up and appear healthy, it may just leaf out next spring/summer. White pines do "hate" wet conditions, however, it may be ok over time.

While we're at it, would you please add viable information to your profile: zone/locality/ erroneous information such as ph and soil texture?

Thanks -

Dax

Slide a sharp shooter shovel down the side of the root ball. Remove enough dirt to determine if the plant is getting enough moisture to encompass the whole root ball. That in turn will also indiciate if the moisture meter is giving you correct soil moisture readings.

Dave

If good buds have formed, then it is likely to green out next year. By "good" buds, I simply mean normal buds that are not dried up.

Can't tell you what to do but if it were mine, I'd leave it be 'til next spring.

+oM

@wisconsitom and @gardener365: How do I tell if the buds are dried up or not? The buds are very small and don't look like much. They are a gray color. I plucked one of them off, and it was green underneath. However, I'm not really sure if the bud itself was dried up. How to tell?

Also, how do I add my zone/soil/etc. information to my profile? I don't see a user CP like in many other internet forums, and when I click on "my page," I don't see a profile per se.

Sorry I did not get back to you sooner John. But yes, those buds do sound dried up. That's really the definitive thing.....if they're dried up husks or plump and healthy. I think you've got it covered though.

+oM

Well, my sawz-all got a work out today. That thing is great for chopping down small trees. LOL.

There is now a brandywine maple in its place. It seems like it will be a very nice red maple cultivar, known for holding its color for 6 weeks or more.

Now I need to see if I can find my receipt for the pine so I can tote the carcass back up to Home Depot for a refund.