Hey aggie! I have a "Brown Turkey" and a "Celeste". They looked like this last year when they were fruiting: Brown Turkey (my very first fig on it last August): And my Celeste with a ton last year: Right now both are inside. The Brown Turkey hasn't produced any Breba figs yet but the Celeste had one that fell off, but now has 4 more new ones from the new growth that started when I brought the tree inside at the end of December (after I gave it chill outside for that whole month). I'm hoping I can keep enough humidity around the little fig fruit (and remember to water the trees enough...lol) so that they won't dry out. I probably won't put the trees outside until May.

Sorry for the late reply....I just read your additional postings. First, before you do anything, go to YOU-TUBE and search for fig tree pruning/training/planting videos. You'll be surprised at the information that you can view. Second,...if/when you pinch out the terminal bud, at the top of the main-stem, you will encourage dormant buds to break below this point, which will then become the new branches. These branches will be trained to to grow upwards, and will increase the total height of the "tree". These new branches will also eventually be pinched back to encourage more buds to break. You'll have a nice rack of new fruiting branches in no time at all. This will be a work-in-progress, and you may not get too many figs while this training is being done to establish the basic framework of your future tree. But figs grow on new wood, so you may get a few this year....maybe. You say you are located in Missouri. Your tree should still be dormant. If it is dormant, it will not be too late to start to prune, but I would wait until the tree starts to grow for this season, and see if buds start to break along the main-stem, and to make sure your terminal bud is still alive and growing. I'd let the plant take off for at least a month, and put on some growth before pinching/pruning. Fertilize, and let the tree grow so you can see what and where to prune. You don't mention how big a pot the "tree" is growing in, but now, while the tree is still dormant, is the time to do a re-pot, using the correct, quick-draining mix. Growing figs in containers is vastly different than growing trees that are planted into the ground. Search this forum for growing figs in containers. I hope this gives you some idea about what to do when training a Fig tree. There's also plenty of prior postings on this forum about training fig trees. Once you establish the basic structure of your tree, keeping it productive and in control is very easy. Good luck. Frank

I only have six indoor figs and six bananas now, due to a rather nasty automobile accident that kept me incapacitated from April until November, most of my figs and bananas were 're-homed'. I was hoping to get them back but unfortunately, everyone that that took them fell in love with them. I have Hunts, Sandys Strawberry Verte, Viollet Black, Hardy Chicago and two I can't remember that I got off of Ebay. I also have two Brown Turkeys, that if they survive this winter out side, will have over wintered outside three winters here in Minnesota. Granted, they are in a perfect mico-climate, and I do wrap them, but that they survive at all is for me a miracle. I got them from the great-grandfather of a friend that lived in upstate NY (zone 4). He said to plant them right next to the house on the south side and bundle them up in the winter. So far it's worked. They are more like shrubs/bushes than trees (I prune them before getting them ready for winter). They've put out more fruit than my potted figs, the fruit is small but sweet. I have my fingers crossed that they will come through this winter.

Sorry for the late comments.... Heat around the root zone can, and will be, the kiss-of-death for many containerized plants, not just figs. I am convinced, all the wilting leaves, and poor performance is a direct result of overheated medium around the roots. If the roots cook, all the water in the world will not revive dead roots. The trees must constantly grow new roots and that take energy away from fig and leaf production, which equals...lousy figs, or, failing plants. If you must grow in containers, try to sink the containers into the cool soil, and mulch heavily to keep the broiling heat away from the roots. Cool feet, sunny leaves, plenty of water, and limestone worked into the top layer of soil. Fertilizers cause the medium to go acidic, and figs need alkaline soils for less disease, more fruit, and, better taste. I was just told recently by a very respected authority, that containerized figs will never reach the same potential as in-ground trees, no matter how good the culture. Containers that are sunk into the surrounding soil can bring these benefits if roots can run into the soil. Then, just spade trim the roots, lift containers for winter storage, and get the best of both words. I live in The Bronx, NYC, and the neighborhoods are loaded with in-ground fig trees. These trees are ALL healthy, Mosaic-free, lush, vigorous...and some, not all, are very productive. Why? In-ground, and, the cold winters kill off disease. Many are neglected, yet, they still thrive. Containerizing can bring many problems, just be aware of culture...and change what needs changing. Food for thought. Culture is everything. Frank