I wouldn't use a lasagna bed for perennials. A lasagna bed is essentially a large compost pile, and we all know how a compost pile will eventually vanish if left alone as all the organic material breaks down. The process is slow enough that it's not going to bother annuals, but unless you keep replenishing the material and carefully packing around the base of perennials, their roots will eventually be left exposed as the lasagna bed breaks down. Perennials that do not like to have their roots disturbed would not do well in such a situation, although perennials which need to be dug up and divided regularly can just be replanted. Additionally, piling up six inches or more of composting materials around the base of a tree could damage the bark.

I just bought the biggest plain old terracotta pots they had available at my local big box store. They don't need to be fancy at all. Eventually, the Rudbeckia will get tall enough to hide the pots from view. The more potting soil that fits in the pot, the less often you'll have to water. Adding in some of those water absorbing polymer crystals to the pot before you plant will also save you from having to water the pots as frequently later. If I had it to do over, I might even buy some of those lightweight faux clay pots that don't dry out in the blazing sun quite so fast. Interestingly, when I moved one of my pots, I discovered that over the years the Ruellia had rooted into the ground through the drainage holes. As far as I can tell it hasn't made any attempt to spread out into the surrounding bed through those holes. It just seems to have kept me from needing to water the pots as often. If you want to put down a barrier that will stop Bermuda grass from growing from your neighbor's yard back into your new bed, it's quite a little undertaking. Rosiew has already mentioned digging and leaving a trench around the bed so it can't tunnel it's way underground into the bed without you noticing it growing across the trench. Another option which is a lot of work up front and then less work later is to place a wall underground to act as a barrier to keep the Bermuda grass out. Google for "Bamboo Barrier" and you'll find the sort of durable plastic products you would need to be successful. Thankfully, the shortest, thinnest, cheapest, material sold to be used as a bamboo barrier should be more than sufficient to keep Bermuda grass at bay.

Yup, the vast majority of our Hosta garden is under a 1930's CCC Red Pine Plantation, so they (the Pines) are thick. We'd heard the notoriety of Maple Tree root strangulation issues with Hostas, but not so with Pine Trees. Alas, at least with Red Pine, there is a problem. Now having helped friends dig out strangled Hostas under Maple trees, we admit the Red Pine problem is certainly not anywhere near as bad, but a factor nonetheless. Many Hosta, over the last 15 some-odd years, have been just fine. I'm sure that the slow growth of many of them is due to this tree root problem, and not merely the heavy shade from the trees. Some Hosta, though, have regressed, some slowly, some dramatically, from tree roots, some even to death when not rescued in time. Our solutions: some are re-planted in buried pots and are A-OK, many more are in COMMERCIAL GRADE (the stuff that's like thin fibreglass cloth, not the cheaper plastic stuff) weed barrier cloth lined holes. Both systems are working. Now, as to deer, you talk fencing as expensive. We also garden about 3 acres, and use a very cheap electric fence. Works. We have about 4 wires. The top wire is not so high as to preclude them jumping it, so here's the real trick. In the spring we place strips of peanut butter coated tin foil strips every so many feet on the hot fence. This 'trains' the deer to the point that the fence can be turned off after a few weeks. Evil but effective ;-) I learned this 'trick' when we kept goats and I saw a young billy-goat lick the electric fence one day. He gave new meaning to 'break-dancing', yhee-haww. Yeah, every year one doe and her fawn figure out that the fence doesn't extend across the driveway, and they wander in, nibble a little here and there, pick their fave and mow it. Knock on wood, they've not mowed the same one two or more years in a row. With 50-60 deer living in our section, we'll put up with one or two bandits. A parting comment: After years of hearing the 'scrunch' sound when sinking a shovel through the Red Pine surface root mat we started digging up a bed under a Jack Pine tree. Both of us looked at each other with astonishment. No 'scrunch'. We didn't find the feeder root mat, so planted 'bare root'. That bed is one of the healthiest ones here now. Oh, and NOTHING grows under our lone Blue Spruce, no surprise. I'm sure you'll work out the details. It's been worth it here! A yard of lush Hosta sure beats a yard of boring brown pine needles. Best Wishes, hh

"It is often asked what is the best or simplest way to create a new garden bed. These are some suggestions that have been brought up on forum discussions on ways to do this effectively." You could get a hold of a tiller and tear into things that way. If you have very hardpacked, neglected soil that may be a necessary first step. The drawbacks are that this method is very disruptive to the soils microbes and fungal life and may also bring up many dormant weed seeds. In many cases there are other less disruptive methods that are considerably easier on your soil and your back. One that is gaining popularity is smothering the area under a layer of newspaper or plain cardboard and covering it over with a thick mulch. The mulch is made up of the same type of materials you would use in a traditional compost pile but is allowed to decompose in place directly on the new bed. The materials you use smother the unwanted grass and weeds and over time will enrich and improve the soil in the bed. The soil will gradually become looser from the activity of the earthworms and other soil creatures without the need for double digging or power equipment. This method is very low impact both to the soil and the gardener. You can often plant things immediately after prepping the bed. Define The Area Draw out the your yard area on graph paper to visualize where you want to create beds if you are working on an overall design. For a single bed you can just outline where it is going to be directly in the garden. There are marking paints that are used upside down that make this very easy to do or you can fill an old baby powder container with flour and use this to layout the perimeter of the area. If this area is going to be created from an existing lawn you can just let the grass grow a bit long, then make a single pass with the mower along the border of where you want the new bed to be. This will give a strong visual for where the edges are and ensures that the radius of the curves are not too tight or difficult to mow along. If you are going to be planting immediately and have the plants on hand you can place them out in their pots to get an idea of where you wish them to be placed. It is much easier to rearrange things on paper or move pots around than to dig up and reposition plants later. Creating The Edges Once you have the beds laid out you can cut in and define the edges. A shallow trench is an easy to maintain border for beds that costs nothing (other than some time). It is easily maintained by pulling back the mulch material to clean up and redefine it periodically. Once a year should be sufficient in most areas. You can also easily expand a bed if it has no permanent edging to remove. With a very sharp straight edged spade cut in a line about 4" deep along the edge you have laid out. Cut in another parallel line about 6" (or the width of your shovel) from the first. You should then be able to easily strip off this ribbon of sod by slipping the spade under it. A garden fork also works well for this. Lay the sod strips, face down, along the inner edge of the trench. If you have a scuffle or action hoe run it along the bottom of the trench to give it a nice flat well defined shape. At his point you can plant or move on to the next step to let the bed develop for a time. If you wish to plant just place your plants in their desired positions. Remove an area of sod twice the size of your pot and dig your planting hole. Amend this hole with some good compost and plant. Mulching Over The Bed Once you have a well defined trench edge you can layer newspaper or brown cardboard over the inside of the bed area. This will smother 99% of whatever is growing there. Any survivors will be weak and easily pulled out or cut down and smothered with additional material. Over this barrier you can build up layers of organic materials lasagna fashion or all mixed together if that is your preference. Compost, chipped leaves, grass clippings, chipped prunings, produce trimmings, coffee grounds, aged manure, whatever you can gather that will rot. Regular reading of the posts on the Forum and you will find that there are a number of materials that folks have come up with or scrounged that are suitable. Pile it on as thick as you can and be sure it is well moistened. If you have set out plants keep the mulch well away from the bases of the new plantings. You can now cover this material with whatever suits you as a top layer. Chipped leaves, or grass clippings are free and will work well. Wood chips can often be found from tree trimmers and they will also serve as a good "top dressing" to retain moisture and protect your soon to be developing microherd. In a short time the material will break down and become a rich, loose loam. Keep is covered with regular additions of compost and some fresh mulch and you will have a very healthy, weed free bed. If you have aditional questions about this topic you can post on the Soil Forum and you will find many folks who will be eager to help you along.