The plant called geraniums that is grown as a bedding annual is actually a pelargonium. There was a mix-up back when old Linnaeus was running around naming things, and the name stuck ;-) Pelargoniums are annuals in the north, as a hard freeze will kill them. I keep some old blankets and sheets around, and just watch the forecasts. 'Pellies' aren't sissies about the cold though, they will do fine through a light frost with a blanket. I extend the season in the fall with blankets too. They just grow much slower when it is chilly. They also don't like it too hot either, by the way. Mine suffer a bit when it gets in the mid-high nineties. True geraniums are hardy perennials, many are native to North America. There is some similarities to the leaves, and the flower shape between the two species. But, pelargoniums are native to Africa, where they are perennials, and succulents at that. Both are great plants. Both get discussed on this forum. It is a bit confusing at first. If you overwintered yours in the house, you have pelargoniums. :-) The FAQs on this forum has a better explanation of the name mix-up than I gave. I can hardly wait to put my pellies outside for the year. :-) Oh, and I'm just a gardener out to learn. More knowledgeable posters, please correct anything that I was incorrect about.

Red Geraniums in Tin Cans I started my bright red geraniums from seed. Sprouted next to a wood stove in winter. I have them on the semi-shade patio in the summer but here in AZ, I bring them inside to bloom all winter in front of a huge SE facing window. This year broad mites attacked. I thought it was cultural, so repotted, fertilized. let dry out, watered more. By the time I realized MITES, the plant's leaves were twisted, discolored and the flower/tips were stunted. I dipped the plant, pot and all in 110 degree water for 15 minutes. I removed all flowers, bud and leaves. Bare Stalks! I put them outside on the patio and LO..new growth, bright green and even a flower stalk forming. I am going to remove that stalk to let the plant develop its roots and leaves but I am so pleased. Indestructible! I have plants that were more exotic and valuable but those geraniums, my favorite leafy pets!

I don't know whether I'd trust an unheated garage to store a plant over a northern winter but if you have a basement that stays above 40ú, can be put where it can be left alone....no watering, no giving light of any kind, no feeding....it can come back better than ever. No thinking a little sprinkling will do it some good...it wont. When we give plants light, we are expecting it to do something....like grow....same with heat....same with food. Leave the poor plant alone....do not do anything to encourage growth. In February--or March....bring the plant out...remove it from its pot if you left it there, or you might have hung it--upside down...which is equally the way to leave it.... cut it back to about 4"....removing all dead branches..inspect the roots and remove any that appear dead or damaged. With a clean pot, put something in the bottom to keep the soil away from the drainage holes---the pot MUST DRAIN....fresh potting soil, place the plant in, water it to drainage, then place it in a sunny window where it is left to gain leaves. Turn it every other day to ensure all parts receive adequate sunlight. Do not feed it until sufficient foliage returns and then only as it requires. Do not let the drainage sit under the pot longer than 5 - 10 minutes.... Within 6 weeks your plant should have foliage that will signify its beginning to return to its old self.

Shirl and Flowergazer....it is perfectly alright to let your geraniums enjoy all the sunshine they can get....as long as they don't get hit with frost. So you might, if they are still in their pots, bring them into the garage at night, back out into the sunshine during the day.....and repeat this as often as you decide they can be and not be touched by frost. OK, out of the pot...no need to remove the soil around the roots...but you can if you wish...knock it off with your fingers....don't wash the roots...that just delays drying. And dry is what you want....very dry. Put them away in the garage or shed for a day or so to let them dry out a bit. You don't want to store a plant in a damp condition. Take them to that cool place....35 to 50 F...and either hang them up, upside down (because its easier to hang that way) or put into paper bags...keep them opened to let moisture escape...and let them be all alone, dry, dark and cool. OR, leave them in their pots...on their side..and let them remain on a shelf. No water should be sprinkled on them...what for? That could initiate some form of growth...we don't want that. So keep the plants dry....very dry. You might put something on the floor to catch the debris that will surely fall from the drying plant. In mid February....but can be delayed as late as March......bring them out to a well newspapered table where you will inspect their roots for any damage, you will cut them back after removing all old leaves and flowers, then you can wash the roots free of any and all old soil. Use warmish water. Cut back about half...third....you decide. A clean pot...6"...8"...10"...depending on the size of the plant...put shards in the bottom to keep the soil away from the drainage holes. Fresh potting soil, make a hole in the center, put your plant in, firm it up. Water to drainage. Take to the sunniest window you have...east,west or south. Don't water again until new leaves begin to form...might take 2+ weeks. When you water, do so always to drainage and dump the excess...never leave water in the saucer below. Begin fertilizing as the amount of leaves dictate...1/4 rate...1/2 rate...20/20/20. As the plant matures you can then increase fertilizer and give it 15/30/15. Turn your plant 1/4 turn every day to ensure all parts of the plant receives equal amount of sun. May produce flower buds in 5...6...7 weeks...but don't concern yourself if it comes to May...flower buds will come. That's it.....that's how after 8 years I still have 7 plants alive and kicking.