I'm down to 4 T-shaped supports that I bought locally years ago. Wish I could find them again.

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Thanks, Natal. I've never seen one of those before. Do you tie several plants to it? Or just one?

You can use sturdy twigs and branches, too. I've done this alot amidst crowded perennials.

I put the green metal hoops up while the plants are small and let the plants grow up through them. It keeps me from having to go out and fix the problem later. The hoops show for awhile, but then the plants in front conceal them.

I do this for crocosmia, oriental lilies, tall coreopsis and a few others.

I use the single hook things to train a new plant with only one or two spindly stalks to grow straight up until it matures (not usually needed the 2nd year). Examples include liatris, Russian sage, vernonia, etc.

I trim off the sides (into a gentle slope to the top) of some perennials to shape them into a mound to keep the middle from flopping open. The shorter sides support the tall middle. I do this for mature Russian sage, amsonia, nepeta, mums.

Cameron

Oceanna, the T arms bend to wrap around a group of stems. You can also link two or more of the supports, but I've always used them separately.

I'm thinking about buying some of these for next year.

Here is a link that might be useful: similar idea

I do what schoolhouse does- use twigs and branches. I've often put several around a plant (peony and Russian sage) and have then strung twine from each one to support the leaning branches. I am cheap and don't like buying anything I can make up myself ;-)

They do have jumbo 'Texas tomato cages' that are said to work well. Personally I just use the plastic coated stakes you get at Lowes and string twine between them like above. They are easier to store in a small shed!
CMK

Oceanna, I saw this method of growing raspberries on Victory Garden many years ago, twisted/woven around wire, I've been growing mine this way ever since.

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The last pic is what it looked like after I twisted the new canes along the wires in the fall. I'll whip outside and take a picture of what they look like this time of year.

Here you go, they're just about ready to start flowering. Unfortunately this year they are stretching for the sun which we haven't had much of this year, using this method of growing raspberries you don't have to shorten the canes (more raspberries) and they are a nice height for picking. When the new canes start growing they are contained in the middle of the bed by the wires.

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Natal, I have a few of the same flower supports you have, I got mine from Lee Valley but I just looked and I either missed them or they don't carry them anymore. I came up with the bright idea of using pieces of rebar and wire which work just as well or even better. This is one of the ways I use them.

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The other way is I make a loose loop in the wire so it will slip up and down the rebar to whatever height I want, use clips to stop them from sliding up and down (even a clothes peg works), you can add more arms as needed, the plants cover the wire so it isn't seen.

Annette

CMK, after almost 20 years of using homemade hog wire cages for my tomatoes I splurged and bought six Texas tomato cages. I love 'em! They're collapsible for easy storage, but they are pricey. I use plastic-coated metal stakes for the rest of my tomatoes.

Thanks everyone! I'm glad I asked. :)

I have been chasing my gladiolus bulbs around with stakes as they bloom, then quickly die. It's a bother and I never seem to keep right up with it, having blooms drooping and spent plants staked proudly up. I'm really regretting not planting them all in a tight group, and may dig them up in fall to do that if I can't come up with a better solution.

Is there something pretty I can plant around/among them that will give them natural support? (Seattle weather, zone 7b)

Natal,
oh! I get it. (blush) Thanks for explaining. Yeah, I looked at those half-circle things, but might the wind not change direction and blow the plant over the other direction? With my luck. haha Thanks for the info about the collapsible texas tomato cages. They sure look big, and yes pricey.

Schoolhouse,
twigs and branches sound great as they would blend right in. From what kinds of trees?

Cameron,
Great answers, and you got me thinking. I had never even thought about cutting the outside of a plant/bush in such a manner that it supports its own center. That's a great idea, and I have a sage plant in mind to try that on, thanks. By rings, do you mean like this?
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CMK,
What kinds of twigs and branches? I do what schoolhouse does- use twigs and branches. "I am cheap and don't like buying anything I can make up myself ;-)" Hey, we ALL like to save money. Besides, twigs and branches blend in beautifully and look a lot better than the classic tomato cage, for instance.

Annette, wow! You gave a great description and thanks for the work you did posting all the pictures. I'm going to think seriously about installing that system for my raspberry plants. Your post made this thread bookmark worthy for me. Thanks! Also, you are very clever to use rebar and clips.

Anyone got willow trees? Wish I did because how cool is this?
http://www.willowweaving.co.uk/
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Anyone know if these are any good, for, say a peony? Or what would/do you use them for?
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What do you all think of this?
http://www.lifehacker.com.au/2009/05/tormato-stabilises-and-feeds-your-tomato-plants/
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Oceanna, I forgot to mention if you plant your glad corms at least 6 inches deep you won't have to stake them. I got this tidbit from a professional glad grower.

Annette

Oh Anette, thanks! That is great news. Can I do it right now as they come up? Or do I have to wait until fall?

I've just dug a 6" hole put the corm in and gradually filled the hole with soil, that is most of the time. If really lazy I fill the holes completely and let them fend for themselves:).
I dig and store the corms in October/November. They take at least 6 to 8 weeks to make new corms after flowering so leave them in as long as possible. In milder climates one can leave them in the ground for a couple of years but I always like to dig and remove the old depleted corms before storing. I've never grown Hardy Glads so I'm not familiar with their care.

Annette

Glad you started this thread Oceanna! I'm going to do what Schoolhouse and CMK do and use twigs and branches. Thanks for the idea! I know it's not a new idea but it had slipped my mind - a lot of that going around right now! ;-D Better than the cut apart tomato cages or heavy twine and stakes I've been using. I will continue to use the jute twine/wire/tall stakes for scarlet runner beans if it ever gets warm enough to plant them.

I'd love to get some of the peony supports at Lee Valley but can't justify the cost even if 'they last for generations'. None of my kids grow peonies! LOL

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley peony supports

Annette, thanks. Wonder what would happen if I carefully dig them up now and sink them deeper?

Glad you're glad, Luckygirl. I'm enjoying this thread too, and I'm learning. The cost of those at your link is absurd. What do you think it costs them to make them? That's highway robbery, IMO.

Oceanna, I'd leave them alone if they've been in for awhile, you could do more damage than good by digging them. If they are in an area where you can add more soil as they pop through you could try that.

Annette

Annette, I had been looking to see how to properly grow cane fruits! I've read of this method as well, but had not seen it put into action. This is exactly how I want to grow my raspberries and how local garden guru Walter Reeves described to me the best culture methods he felt (you can weed wack the suckers that grow outside the edges more easily this way.

Thanks for the great photos, you've made it so clear how everything is put together! I also really like the wire and rebar rings. So simple and I can easily make them so cheap!!

GGG, the neat thing about this method is it's flexible as to how high you want your T-bars, depending on how tall one is the wire can be at a comfortable height for picking without having to bend down :). I forgot to mention about the spreader board, this is so you can pull the wire tight. On ours we have a single wire going through the holes and around with a turnbuckle to tighten the wire if needed.

Annette

Annette, I looked at them today and they're too big now. I think I can do it in the fall, then. I think I remember having a problem and not being sure I went down 6". I should measure inches on my trowel and mark them with scratches if I can. That would help.

I got one of those round grids today, and also a bigger rectangular grid one that I'm hoping might encompass most of my glads. Also a couple more tomato cages as I always need those somewhere.

Annette, I found this site today and they have the Y-stakes in 3 sizes. They're expensive and if I remember correctly the ones I have were too, but I got them on sale many years ago.

Here is a link that might be useful: Y stakes

Lots of good tips on this thread!

I use a peony ring for peonies and for my annabelle hydrangea. Most other plants that need staking I use Y forked sticks and twigs, as others have said.

Another way of supporting floppy plants is to use twiggy branches pushed in and around the plant, let the plant grow up through them. Works great with any height of plant that is if you can find a source of twiggy branches.

Annette

Most box stores have green cane stakes that can be bought in a few different lenghts. I use then all the time with the velcro you can purchase in the same location. I store all of them in a bucket for the winter and have used them for several years now.