Just registered with GW today asking for cuttings ? Well to help here is a elderly man with an ailing wife that sells fig plants at a reasonable cost. You can call him and if he does not answer call him back he may be out and about or taking care of his spouse. This is the 2011 inventory of the trees that Mr. Robin has for sale. If you are looking for other varieties that is not listed on this list please just call and ask him. He does have some other varieties. Last weekend I met him at his house and bought few plants from him, all looking healthy and growing very well. While I was there I pulled out many of his trees out of the pot and inscpected their roots for RNK, I found NON. I don't gain anything from his sale. He's wife Miss. Betty is really sick and his sale would him out a little. Mr. James Robin's phone number: 337-407-0188. White figs: Alma Champagne Condria/Verone hybrid Dottato/Kadota Galbun LSU Gold LSU Hollier LSU Everbearing Magnolia/Brunswick Marseilles/Lemon/Lattarula Italian Honey Scott's yellow Mary lane/Jelly (Seedless variety) Ventura/Strawberry Verte/ Green Ischia Black Figs: Black Mission/Francascan/Mission **LSU Yellow (Brandy) Brown Turkey Celeste Blue Celeste Hardy Chicago Hunt LSU Purple O'Rourke Scott's Black Tiger Negronne/VDB I believe he can ship to any states. If you have any questions please just give him a call, he is a pleasant person to talk to.

I had Fiorone di Ruvo, it is a nice fig but, according to my experience, it is not a good producer in non-optimum climates. My climate is mild but a little cloudy and rainy, however no problems for other many varieties. It seems to be a San pedro type fig; no autumn crop if not caprified. The last two years I haven't any Fiorone di Ruvo breva, because of this I decided to discard it. On the contrary, the variety "Gentile" another San pedro variety, gave a decent crop of brevas (so far it is only an small grafted branch), despite it was in a less sunny place. Fiorone seems to be an excellent variety in its locality of origin (South of Italy) but, as fas as I seen, I don't recommend Fiorone di Ruvo for non sunny climates. It seems to have better San pedro varieties for cooler climates, like "Desert King" for example (I haven't tested it)

Lou and all: I have attached photos of my Fiorone di Ruvo tree from the summer of 2007. The first fig to ripen was picked on June 18th, the same day these photos were taken. You can see that the form in which this tree was growing is very similar to your tree Lou. Interesting, the mother tree has a similar spread habit. My little tree produced alot of brebas for it's size as well as a main crop. The fig was quite good for the trees' first fruit. However, it did drop the main crop at the end of the summer. I attributed it to it being an immature tree. Unfortunately, this little tree died the following year and I was not able to observe the fruiting habits in 2008. Interesting enough, practically all of the contacts I shared this fig with informed me that although the brebas are excellent figs, they all dropped their main crop. When I received my cuttings of Fiorone di Ruvo from a friend in Bari, I specifically asked if this tree was completely parthenocarpic. I was told that it was and that it produced two crops. Much to my disappointment, I have concluded that this fig is a San Pedro type fig and that the second, or main crop, needs caprification inorder to fully ripen it's figs. It certainly lives up to it's name as Fiorone. I was hopeful in that one contact has offered to replace the tree that I lost last year. It has to be the earliest and largest fig I have ever known to ripen in this climatic zone so it would certainly extend the season if one is willing to sacrifice the main crop. Ironically, I received a fig called Fico Gentile from the same source in Bari and it too, is a San Pedro type fig that produces excellent brebas but drops the main crop. This first photo is the mother tree in Bari:

Take multiple cuttings from the fig (and plum) to ensure you get a tree because not every cutting will root. Keep the cuttings in a moist growing medium inside a plastic bag for the first couple of weeks to keep the humidity level high and increase the odds of success. If you have a rooting hormone, I'd use it. Plum trees from cuttings can be very iffy and your degree of success can depend on the tree's origin. Most plum trees sold nowadays are grafted to a different rootstock (as are other stone fruit varieties) because most stone fruit trees produce better when grafted to hardier root stocks. If the plum tree you're wanting to take cuttings from is of European origin instead of Japanese origin, for example, then you're more likely to have success with the cuttings. A few plums (like our native ones here) are very easy to root in September or October by cutting off a branch and sticking it into the ground in moist soil, or by digging up a sucker and transplanting it. You also can transplant suckers from those types of plants in spring. However, the suckers of grafted plants do not give you the plums you seek as they generally are suckering off the root stock which might be a variety that doesn't produce plums at all or that only produces small, hard plums that aren't edible. If you've ever had a grafted tree die back to the rootstock and then regrow from the rootstock alone, you've probably seen the poor quality fruit that rootstocks produce (which is why we use them for their roots, not their fruits).