That's a really neat-looking seedling. Your question: there are times when a conifer will have a second growth spurt and this is called: llamas growth. Otherwise 99% of the time you can expect a single push of growth, each spring.

I don't know enough about the "New Caledonia" conifers to comment.

Dax

Looks like a field dug spruce that you recently bought....this spring being its first since it was dug out of the field, prepped, then sold to you. The trauma of having so many roots cut when it was dug frequently results in the first (and sometimes second) year's growth to be short & 'stunted'

I didn't read the text at first and immediately looked at the pic and thought, "what the heck kind of spruce is that, looks pretty cool!".

The pics are just of the top portion. The tree is about 7' tall. I just didnt know if I should expect the growth to continue to elongate over the summer. I hope the leader keeps growing as it is only about 6" right now. The stems are starting to turn the brown color on the new growth, so does this mean growth for the year is over?

Yes, likely over for now. It'll speed up again in a year or two after the roots have recovered from the transplanting damage.

Give it plenty of water while the weather is hot / dry, including spraying the foliage.

Resin

That leads into another question I had. I have a little misting stand. Would it be beneficial to mist the tree during the heat of the day to cool it. I thought I could put it on a timer. Anyone done this especially on new transplants?

Also, the needles on the old leader are quite spaced out because of big growth. This new leader is very dense and shorter. Will this be an issue going forward at all?

Hi greatplainsturf, a mister is not necessary unless (very unlikely) you see wilting/drooping foliage. Just give the foliage a blast while you're watering or when you think of it otherwise. Besides, a garden hose heats up and will mist hot water ;-)

Dax

Guys are you saying to give conifers a blast/spray of water when its really hot, like in the 90s?

I never heard that before. I thought it be a bad thing especially with hard water in which the minerals would dry on the needles (think water spots).

I never do it, some do. It surely won't hurt them though.

Dax

I don't know that I would always do it, but on new transplants, anything I can do to help them through the first summer can't hurt.

Back on the leader. How will this look next year? Last years leader is very long and had a large bud on top. If growth is truly done on this leader, the diameter of the stem and the bud are much smaller. I don't see how I can get much growth next year either.

"Back on the leader. How will this look next year? Last years leader is very long and had a large bud on top. If growth is truly done on this leader, the diameter of the stem and the bud are much smaller. I don't see how I can get much growth next year either. "

I may be corrected by the more experienced, but from watching my trees (mostly not conifers though!) encapsulate their damage or pruning cuts it seems trunks grow or expand most of the year so it is logical to think the stems to the same thing.

I am more or less repeating what others have said, but just to make sure you don't worry and know what to expect, I will try to explain a bit.

I have grown literally thousands of Norway spruce trees over the past 40 years or so. Yours looks perfectly normal to me. First, it is suffering from transplant shock/root loss, as others have said. It is normal for the new shoot to look as your does after transplant. The shoot may elongate a bit more this year, but even if it does, it will look a bit more "congested," or its needles will be more closely spaced, than they are on trees not recently transplanted.

It will take maybe three or four years for your tree to look more "normal." Don't worry about it and have patience. Most trees, and especially Norway spruce, are very resiliant, and after maybe three years or a bit more, they become perfectly lush, assuming you have good soil and otherwise a good site.

Next year you will probably see stunted growth again, but whatever shoot you see next year will elongate more fully, so that the space between the needles is normal. The needles may also be a bit longer next year. The following year the growth should accelerate, and by the fourth year, the growth should be very good and the tree may no longer look like it has been transplanted.

I also second those who have said be sure to water regularly. If your soil is well drained--meaning the water doesn't pool around the tree or in any depression--there is far more danger of underwatering than overwatering. And mulch!

Just one more thought--OK is a bit out of the best area for Norway spruce. Your summers are ferociously hot. But if your soil is good, and it is protected from drought, and the specific genetic strain is good for your area, you may end up with a nice tree.

If after 4 years or so it is still struggling, maybe try a Deodar cedar, or something else. Do you see nice Norway spruce growing in your area? If so, you are probably in good shape with it.

--Spruce

It's kind of tough for us here in OK. The local Christmas tree farms grow Norway successfully, but by no means is it common in the OK landscape. My soil is pretty tight, I have monitoring the water carefully not to overwater. The problem with Deodar is that they freeze and die in the winter. There WERE many nice deodar in my neighborhood and 95% of them are now dead from last winter. I chose the Norway, because I know the deodar will die sooner or later. Hopefully I can keep the Norway alive through the heat. I have heard they can do well in heat if taken care of. Thank you for the advice.

There are some especially cold hardy varieties of Deodar, but I don't know how they would do in your specific climate there. You not only get summer heat that can be extreme, but I understand your winters can be very harsh, with terrible dry winds. Good luck. Norway spruce is one of my top favorite trees, and they are amazingly adaptable. If your soils are not naturally high in magnesium, and have moderate acidity--pH between 4.8 and 5.8--you can sprinkle some high mag crushed or pelletized limestone around the tree for 20 feet in all directions. Spread at a concentration recommended for lawns. You don't want to overdo it and raise the pH too much.

I would not fertilize the tree, especially not until it is established. Fertilizing can be a good thing, but there is a risk that unless it is done exactly right, and corrects some soil deficiency, it could harm the tree.

--Spruce

I haven't had my ph tested, but typically soils around here on just barely on the acidic side 6-6.8. The tree may like a bit more. I'll run a test to see what it needs. I need to make sure the ground isn't a 9 ph like a friend of mine found who lives about 30 miles away. He is having a terrible te growing anything.