Not sure it anyone still looks back at this section of the forum, but I found it extremely interesting. The question I have is more of a top-down question. I currently grow blue spruce, in multiple numbers (hundreds/maybe a thousand potted up now, and maybe another thousand almost ready to pot ). Mine are 2-3 years old, so early stage. Grown from seed. Some from "majestica" blue spruce seed which seem to grow quite eratically to be honest. In any case, I read of blue spruce cultivars like Hoopsi, and Fat Albert. I believe they are grafted onto Norway Spruce understock. What I don't understand is how the colour (very vibrant blue) is common to all grafted stock. I assume that "they" (whoever "they" are) select specific/specimin adult trees and take scions exclusively from that tree? Who would maintain the Hoopsi "trademark" i.e. select consistent adult trees? I assume certain of the "progeny" may then be a source of scions, thus improving the variety? Also, I know I can buy grafted Hoopsi grafted stock (a year or two old) but if I wanted to graft my own Hoopsi, how would one proceed (and is this type of activity monitored? i.e. purchase a Hoopsi adult tree and presumably take my "scions" from that tree??) Alternatively, if one of my current trees grew with a vibrant blue colour (I seem to have a few out of a thousand) could I then use that tree for scions, a number of years from now? (provided I obtained or grew Norway Spruce or some other suitable understock). Sorry, you can tell I'm very new to this. But any information will be helpful.

I've rooted various Chamaecyparis, Juniperus, Thuja and Tsuga species by simply sticking late fall/early winter cuttings in well-aerated raised bed soil in full sun and letting nature take it's course. I've rooted the Xanthocyparis nootkatensis 'pendula', too - if that is the plant that was removed/renamed from Chamaecyparis. The bud activity you are seeing now is something akin to cutting pussy willows or Forsythia in Jan and putting them in water - 'forcing', is what it's called. Buds have their own storehouse of energy at their base, so all they need to open are water and temperatures above 45*. That you're seeing bud movement isn't a sign that roots have formed. Again, I get variable strike %s - but I'm not going to any special effort either - by sticking prunings/cuttings from plants I'm growing on for bonsai during the cold months as described above and forgetting them. You could probably do much better (% of strikes) than I with some attention to sanitation and by providing more favorable cultural conditions. Al

'Sunset Western Garden Book' cites Nootka Cypress as zones 4-6, 15-17 - which in itself is it's own 'zonal rating system' for the western US. As bboy has said previously regarding their zonal system - He said to the persuasion that (he) wouldn't put all the trust in the world on these editors. Of course at the very least you could find out what Sunset Zone is and to go from there. Heck maybe even contacting Sunset themselves could be an option for you. Take care Osprey and I hope you get good news you'd like to hear! Dax

"Dave, you must be happy that there are people that will stick there neck out that right plants names will be used"... I post photos of my conifers for discussion..There is a lot to be learned by doing this...not only for myself but for others also. I was never aware there was so much confusion regarding plant names. Now I am more confused then ever. What's going on here??? Sometimes I want to argue the point because I can't believe that there is a total disregard for a nursery/grower to misrepresent a what he is selling. Getting back to my cultivar Cedrus libani 'Whatever it is called'...my conifer has an occasional horizontal branch. All others with a little length will become pendulous. None of the branches have a tendency to kick up and become vertical in growth like the one in the Iseli photo. My plant in no way shape or form resembles that plant. It is planted on the North side of the house with nothing between it and the North Pole. Lowest temperature it has been exposed to is -12F.(-24.44C.). Unusual in itself that it survives and is doing well. Anyway the discussion has been interesting with all the different ideas as to what it really is. Dave