I have pulled these plants and they need to go NOW! They are either purple, or white with blue veining. I don't know which are which as they have seeded themselves into my veggie garden from their naturalization in my lawn. I have several and would love to trade them out to you. If you live near post to pick up. I am looking especially for: pepper plants (seedlings of good size) egg plant San Marzano tomato Thyme of any kind perenial herbs pulmonaria lungwort Queen Elizabeth climing rose rooted start

Thanks for these suggestions! One of my problems has been that there are simply so many roses that it's hard to narrow things down. Gemini seems a lot darker than my rose has ever gotten, so I don't think it's that one, but Moonstone seems possible. Sheer Bliss says it's a pink center with white outer while mine's the other way around... I think Moonstone's the closest so far, though I'm not completely convinced. And yeah, I've thought of trying to cut away the red one. The very first blooming I didn't realize it was there because of a sucker, I just couldn't figure out where there were two bushes... I'm new to rose-tending. And it was pretty. Knowing that now, I'm leery because of how incredibly thorny the cultivated one is and how intertwined they are. But I'm going to try. :)

You wrote: "2,4-d is probably the culprit." Not so. 2,4-D makes cells grow excessively. See this image from Cornell http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/diagnostickeys/TomWlt/2_4_D_Tom.htm Your description matches glyphosate damage. See this image from Clemson University http://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/plant_prob_clinic/fact_sheet_folder/herbicide_damage.html You also wrote: "Lesson learned, keep away from cheap spray-on lawn herbcides ..." Not necessarily so. Any herbicide can drift on the breeze or even just because of the turbulence from the spray. (A breeze is anything that makes the leaves rustle, even the slightest bit.) Here is a link that might be useful: Clemson image glyphosate damage

First of all, how do you post pictures here? Second, the link 'effects of glyphosate on tomato' left above by jean001a has a picture of a glyphosphate effected tomato plant and it looks just like mine do. To: dickiefickle, all my garden plants are planted in a garden, in the ground, except for a cucumber and a pepper. One problem I had, which is why I'm having such a bad weed problem, is that when I first decided to plant this garden, my plan was to use the rear-tine tiller owned by my landlord to till all the soil in the garden area, then to till in some bulk combo soil. However, the tiller has both a seized transmission and engine, so its useless. This meant that I had to plant the garden in what was currently a lawn area, with grass and weeds. So I planted the plants just like I would plant a shrub or perennial. I dug holes about 14"-16" in diameter, about 14" deep, then I mixed my soil up and filed these holes, then planted the plants in the holes. Before planting, I didnt spray Roundup on the garden area, because I figured my landlord would want it to be a lawn again in the future, after the garden was picked. But later, she agreed to allow me to spray it, but by that time the garden was 3 weeks old. However, the grass and weeds are still growing, so I first just weed-wacked them, but as the veggies grew larger, I couldnt take the chance of weed wacking the veggies by accident. But there are too many to pull every few days, so i did what I would normally do in an ornamental bed. I first pulled the weeds under the drip line of the veggie plants, then I carefully sprayed Roundup to the other weeds, with the wand very low to the ground, on a non-windy day. Also to dickiefickle: As far as my soil being too moist, the holes I'm growing in are 14-16" deep, and we live on the East coast where we have a drought just about every summer, where it wont rain for weeks at a time. Most watering is done by hand, and I never water too much or too often. Usually every 3 days or so, unless it rains, so the soil is never too wet for very long. However, I planted a Dahlia, a 40" variety called 'Contraste' back on about May 5. It already had a long stem growing out of the tuber, so once I planted it, it immediately was 3" above ground and started growing leaves at once. Then on about May 20, we had an extremely rare 7 day long rain spell, where it rained on and off every day, and was constantly overcast. It actually rained about 3-5 hours per day. One day after the rain ended, the sun came out and some plants were wilting a little initially due to the bright sun for the first time in 8 days, but then most plants perked back up, except for the one Dahlia. It continued to wilt for 8 more days, til I dug down to the tuber, and discovered that it had rotted from the bottom up and was slimy and easily crushed in my hands. ****Anyway, my most important question at this point is: Now that I've pruned the tomatoes back below the yellowing areas on top of main stem and laterals, will those tomatoes grow new stems from the area where pruned like most plants do(2 or more new stems), or will no new growth start where pruned, and only new lateral will grow from between the main stem and leaf branches? How do tomatoes normally react to their stems being pruned?