I don't have Wyeberry, but have lots of well-rooted Dormanred tip layers. I believe it's a similar hybrid, a complex cross between dewberry and several raspberries. Fits your category of "unusual small fruits ribes and rubus" at any rate. Very vigorous plant, needs a 3-wire trellis by the second year. I'd be glad to trade for Autumn Bliss, if you're interested.

In my experience, none of the blackberries want to stay small! Oregon State University has info about ripening dates of known cultivars, so you could google that info and make your choices. I have discovered that alot of times, I have to bend myself around the plants I want, not the other way around :) If you ever run into Caroline raspberry, get it. It bears nearly continuously during the summer and fall. It is my wifes favorite. The yellow and gold raspberries usually taste nothing like the reds. For flavor I stick with the reds. Google the term "upright blackberries" including the quote marks, and discover what kinds are out there that may suit your fancy. Hey, try one of everything! Thats what we normally do. Then you can propagate out the ones you like the best. Some will really tickle your fancy, others you will just consider so-so in your location. It's all part of the fun. And you cannot really tell until you have tried them.

Thank you WW and fatmorgana. I'm retired, and walk about 10 miles a day for exercise. To stave off boredom, I take lots of plant photos for later ID. It's a great hobby. When I find something that has not been recorded in this area, I submit a specimen to our state Botanists for their review. I have a decent plant press with plywood covers, newspaper for specimens, matted fiberboard for some give, and cardboard separators. I also have foam inserts for thicker specimens, and heavy duty, adjustable straps for pressing. As you suggested, I include the basic info (name, date, GPS location, possible plant species if known, and sample number) on the newspaper that houses the sample. I also provide an email summary with detailed measurements and observations. I do have several keys. However, Rubus is a poorly understood genus, and herbarium specimens are often misidentified. One reason is that there might be 2 or 3 different species at the collection site, and so mixed samples occur. Another is that the genus is complex, and not heavily studied (maybe in part, because of those darned prickles). I did talk to a couple of knowledgeable Botanists (one in Arkansas and one in Missouri), and the Rubus keys are being rewritten as we speak. They do want specimens that are properly collected, as current species lists are inaccurate. For example, Arkansas has 2 or 3 dewberry species typically reported. But using a draft of the new Missouri key, I found 5 dewberry species here in just a couple of hours. I did get general guidelines for collecting. However, one source said it typically takes two sheets for dewberry collections, and six sheets for blackberry and raspberry collections. The second source gave the following suggestions (paraphrased), which makes me think two sheets for any species will work: In general, roots are not needed for the ID. The collector must may an observation as to whether the plants are rooting, or non-rooting at the tips. You need to make primocane and floricane collections from the same root stock. That can be a bit difficult, since some primocanes will be somewhat immature when collecting floricanes. The collection should include the mature leaves from the middle of the canes. For tip rooting species, a collection must be made from the main stem of the primocane (to show mature leaves), not the lateral branches. So my plan as this time is to press a primocane specimen from the plant's center (mature leaves and a decent length of stem) that shows both sides of the leaves. The second sheet would show the floricane inflorescence. I think the same procedure will work for blackberries and raspberries too, but probably need to check with the folks who will receive the specimens prior to collecting samples next spring. I want to avoid 6 sheet samples, if possible, because that would limit me to just 2 or 3 specimens in the plant press at a time. So the reason I posted initially, was to see if people here were experienced in Rubus collections. But in the end, I probably just need to go with recommendations from our Botanists.

All members of the genus Malus can freely cross breed these Include : mountain ash, hawthorn, apples , flowering crab apples, and about 20 others. the edible quince,Japanese quince,pear ,Asian pear, apple, crab apple can all crossbreed . but the F1 are disappointing .all raspberries ,dewberries, loganberries, mulberries , wine berries, black caps, blackberries can crossbreed. As to the rest 1. Grayleaf raspberry (R. ideaus spp. strigosus) vs. European common raspberry (R. ideaus spp. ideaus)? 2. The various American blackberries vs. the various European blackberries and native/non-native forced hybrids? 3. The various native plums with Prunus domestica or P. tomentosa (I think I read that P. tomentosa (Nanking cherry) will freely hybridize with P. pumilla (sandcherry)? they have crossed the sand cherry with the plum in the 1970's 4. The various native crabapples with Malus domestica/pumilla? 5. American mountain ash with European or Asian pear, or the quinces, or at least with European mountain ash? Same for chokecherries since, I think I remember, that Pytina/Aronia can hybridize with Sorbus americana. 6. The various native plums with the man-made plum hybrids?Luther Burbank crossed Beach plums with domestic plums to give them Hardyness 7. "The native plums with peach/nectarine or almond? yes available" 8. The native mints and onions with the European garden species.You can cross onions with onions and onoins with garlic ( shallots) but you can not cross them with leeks. 9. The native silverberries with non-native Eleagnus spp. (Russian olive, Autumn olive, goumi). 10. The native honeysuckles (Lonicera spp.) with the increasingly popular blue honeyberry/haskap (Lonicera k... forgot). AND NATIVE VS NATIVE: 1. Forb/herbs like the Agastache spp. within themselves, the Monarda spp. within them selves, and so on. It seems that there are not many natural intermediaries between species in the same region - yet, maybe which mixing members of a genus that are regionally exclusive of each other, the likelihood for chance hybridization is greater? For instance, are the various Rhododendron spp. of a given area unlikely to hybridize with each other and same of the blueberries of a sub-region, yet when you plant Rhododendron spp. and, respectively, blueberries with their cousin species from opposite coasts, will hybridization occur more frequently? You can cross high bush Rhododendron with azaleas and Pjs I which that there were an online resource cataloging natural compatibilities within familiar horticulture genus. Purpose: I don't want to plant any foreign plant near my natives that would be cross-fertile. I would plant Prunus tomentosa if only it wouldn't supposedly readily hybridize with P. bessyi. Thanks, Now can you answer this one for me loquats can be grafted onto pear trees but can they crossbreed with pears ?