Hi Anna, Well....welcome to our world!! I'd say your amaryllis would have been guarantted to bloom in 5 weeks if it had all the optimal conditions, but sitting in a box at room temp for who knows how long wasn't what it needed!! Most of those box kits show up in the stores in October and at that point they have come from the distributor where they have been chilled and just ready to bloom. If they aren't given warmth, water, and a little love within a window of a couple of months...they may say, "Forget it, I'll wait till next year!!". So obviously, your good efforts at Christmastime just arrived too late. BUT...there is good news!! Put that bulb outside where it can soak up the sun and keep it watered (not soaking) with 1/2 strength Miracle Gro (or a similar water based fertilizer). Those leaves should grow nice and green and STRONG and be able to support themselves! Then...around late August (you are getting a late start!!) stop watering and turn the pot on its side where the rain can't hit the soil. Those nice leaves should yellow up and shrivel. At that point, cut them back to the neck of the bulb and put the bulb in the pot somewhere where the temp will be above freezing for the next 8 weeks. Bring it out...8 weeks later, give it some water and warmth, (and sunlight if possible...although winter dreariness might do) and you may be rewarded with blooms. Since it's had a rough first year, just be patient with it...it might go on its natural cycle and bloom in the spring. As soon as it's warm enough (April/May) put it outside so it can soak up the benefits. You need to build that bulb back up so that it will reward you with blooms! GOOD LUCK...and be patient!! Kristi

BUT (yes it's a big one, watch out, ha), you CAN grow them and get them to bloom further north with some winter protection for the buds, since they're proving to be root-hardy ie they're still alive and growing from the roots. What you need to do is protect the buds, which grow at the tips of the stems. Make a little circle around the plant using stakes or sticks, add chicken wire or burlap to form a cage, stuff the cage with leaves. Oak leaves supposedly don't pack down as much as others. Keep an extra bag of leaves in the garage (so they don't freeze), as you'll need to add more leaves if they do pack down and expose the buds. Remove the entire thing when the last frost date is past. You should see new growth, and swollen buds on the tips of the branches. Sounds like work, esp. as the shrubs get bigger. Which is why they came up all the newer paniculatas that bloom on both "new" and old wood. In other words, they develop new buds after growth resumes in spring, as well as sometimes keeping their buds from the past year. HTH!

Hydrangeas sold at grocery stores - like Trader Joe's - are manipulated into bloom at an early age and often, out of season. Once they have finished up with the flowers and buds they come with, they are done for that season.....and maybe even for a couple of seasons. They need time to establish in the garden and put on some maturity before they can be expected to flower again and to produce flowers of typical size. In zone 9/10, winterkill of buds is not an issue but the previous comments about pruning times are relevant. If you want a hydrangea expected to produce flowers consistantly and of "normal" size, purchase a plant intended for the landcape from a nursery or garden center. Grocery store hydrangeas, aka florist's hydrangeas, are intended as blooming houseplants or gift plants, although they can usually be transitioned into the garden well.....given time :-)

Cynthia, thank you for the photo! Gorgeous!!! Meg, don't water too sparingly ... LOL. The roots need moisture to grow. My theory is after the roots have been twirling around the pot for a bit the plant 'decides' that this is as far as they're going to get and begins the blooming process to replicate itself. That may be why a more mature plant will bloom after the flood and drying period as mentioned above. It 'thinks'; "Well, I may die soon so I better use all my energy to bloom and produce seeds." However, the varieties we grow are sterile hybrids and don't make seeds. The article below says not to use saucers under pots. Perhaps saucers might promote rot in 80 to 90 degree climates like some parts of California and Florida, but with our 105 to 110 + degrees in summer they need all the help they can get so I use saucers. The saucers retain a little water and gives the soil time to soak it up. The peat moss in many potting soils become resistant to absorbing water after drying. I even mix extra water retaining crystals in my potting soil. Miracle Gro contains it already, but not enough IMHO. Sometimes if the soil has really dried out I either set the pot in a tub of water to hydrate, or lay a very slow dripping hose in the pot. Plus there are differences in varieties. I notice some begin blooming later/earlier/longer than others, but all the hybrid varieties available in nurseries bloom well. Do keep us posted. Wishing for you the best blooming bougie in the world! ... :-) Here is a link that might be useful: How to water bougies ... mostly about bougies in ground.