Okay, this is in addition to my first request for help. I've been looking all over this website, and it is fabulous the amount of information available. I take my hat off to you all, the real gardeners! I have moved to my new property and brought lots of my old garden in pots. The old garden was well fenced so I don't know much about deer resistance. My short list, so far, is: crabapple hawthorne rugosa roses mountain ash (too messy?, and can it be grown in a large container?) split leaf sumac (the deer ate the top of this the other day, but I'm told it's poisonous?) birch (too big?, but I love the white bark) corkscrew willow (too big?, but again so totally cool) lilac (california and ordinary) boxwood iris ( I have lots of this available) kerria (I have lots of this available) yucca (I have two on the beach if I can move them?) mock orange daylilies (although the deer keep munching them and everything says they are deer resistant) clumps of chives ( I have tons) heuchera (I have tons - is this deer resistant, I can't find that info) Japanese Maple ( I like Ozakasuki, will it live here in the salt, and is it deer tolerant, and will it be happy living in my 36 x 36 container?) My driveway is quite steep. The bed beside it is about 8ft wide and 10 ft long at the top (this is where I want to plant one threesome of shrubs), sloping down and around to a corner at only 18" wide for about 20 ft, then widening at the corner (I have a 36" wide and deep pot waiting for something sitting on the curve) then around the corner it widens to about 6 ft for about 20 ft. This is where I want to put the other grouping. In the narrower areas I will put perennials. The back of these garden beds are all fenced with trellis type fencing, so I could grow vines up the back, perhaps. Advice? Remember that I am on the ocean, and have a large deer population, and this area cannot be fenced. If I plant rugosa roses in the skinnier areas of the driveway, will they get huge? Also, I've been reading on this website about Montauk Daisies, will they grow in the Pacific Northwest, I've never heard of them before but they look gorgeous. I'm hoping to do groupings that I can spread around my whole property, trying to get some theme going. It's also important to have something blooming pretty much all season, so I'm trying to stagger my flowering times. Most other gardens I've ever had have had one of everything, and that really doesn't work! I know I've asked way too many questions, but any help will be very much appreciated!

Tall fescue is the most salt tolerant and one of the most drought tolerant of the cool season turfgrasses

I would avoid Austrian pines at all cost at this point. They seem to have some type of disease or infestation here in SE Michigan now, and all of them are dying off everywhere I look. I have seen some jack pines along roads here that are the progeny of ones planted back in the 1930's as part of CCC/WPA projects, and they seem to handle the winter conditions from what I can see without too much problem. They can be a reasonably attractive tree if well grown -- the ones here are a lot nicer and less scrubby than the Northern Michigan ones. But, I doubt this tree is even available in the trade other than as tiny seedlings from specialty nurseries, since it's sort of considered a junk tree.

Salty areas, like salt flats, in the range of pinyon pines are by definition the bottoms of low valleys. If present, the pines are a thousand meters or more higher. The salt-adapted plants are the shrubs (saltbush for example) that are on salty soils above the flats, and possibly Utah juniper, which I have seen get down low just above salt flats along the shore of the Great Salt Lake. An engraving that appeared in Capt. Stansbury's Report on the Great Salt Lake in 1847 shows what appear to be pinyon pines close to the lake shore. I once visited the spot depicted and found no trees there at all. Artist's license, I suspect. Long Island's salt won't bother the pinyons any more than it bothered me as a child and juvenile delinquent. But the summer humidity might, and that is also a problem for its roots, well-drained soil or not. Even sands hold moisture in a year-round precipitation climate. And it is P. edulis, not a variety of cembroides.