they are extremely variable in z5.. need to know where you are .... and it wouldnt hurt to have some idea of the size of the circle and the drive ... as for size.. check the link the real downside.. IMHO ... is the transitory nature of the show itself.. many a spring.. i get no flower at all.. due to frost prior to bloom ... and that is an issue of your micro climate ... and also.. if it is to bloom in a minor early heat wave.. like it did this year.. and frosted two days later.. the show is VERY SHORT .... i just dont know.. how reliable your dream would be .. in MY z5 .. so we need to know.. as i started.. where you are ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

Sheesh, I could have sworn you said they were like small white pencil points! lol. Male peach scales, which are the white ones, are always clearly oblong in shape...quite distinctive. You took a VERY good picture. There's no other scale that looks quite like this. I'd ask you to ponder most carefully on the recommendation of Imidicloprid drenches. This chemical would need to be applied in the spring when your plant is probably getting ready to flower and it is well known that imidicloprid is translocated to the nectar and pollen of flowering plants, making it a problem for pollinating insects and even hummingbirds. I think that you will have quite a bit of success with your horticultural oil applications, as long as you attend to your plant three or four times over the fall, winter, and early spring. Be sure to concentrate on getting the product all over the trunk, branches and twigs...nooks and crannies and all. Please use a commercial product specially manufactured to be mixed with water to make an emulsion. Horticultural oil applications have been the most recommended and successful remedy for a wide variety of scale insects for generations.

Maureen, I would recommend contacting your extension agent or local forester for more information on who you might contact for potential removal/purchasing. Trees grown in yard or farmstead settings - unless carefully managed - will likely not attract a great deal of attention from timber buyers due to potential for old nails, wire, etc that may exist under in the tree. I'm in west central WI and had 4 20"+ Black Walnuts we needed to remove last year and we couldn't give away the trees (the trees were farmstead trees/woodland bordering trees). A local timber buyer had zero interest - even in just giving them away - nor did anyone want them for wood burning. We did end up giving some chunks of the logs away to friends though who wanted some for woodworking. While I like Black Walnuts in general, I do not like them in a yard setting as a selection of other plants are not tolerant of the junglone (basically a natural herbicide of the BW) produced from the seeds, roots, and leaves. Good luck!

Thanks, Toronado. I may or may not. I haven't decided. I really wanted a Crape Myrtle tree but that's apparently not going to happen. I've already prepared the areas around the house for the plants and Shrubs I've ordered. There really isn't anywhere I could put a Crape Myrtle shrub. I do have one spot appx. twelve feet long by six feet wide that is currently occupied by what looks to me to be a Weeping White Mulberry tree. Some idiot planted this weeping tree three feet from the garage foundation and two feet away from a sidewalk. The tree roots cracked and heaved the sidewalk last year but haven't yet affected the garage foundation. The top of the tree is brushing against the roof, which is nine feet above ground level. I'm going to remove the sidewalk, the small concrete patio and the weeping tree next year. I'm going to have a friend bring his trackhoe onto the property and dig down deep enough with the bucket to remove the weeping tree with the hopes of saving it and replanting it elsewhere. I'm fairly certain that he can remove it in such a manner that the majority of the root structure will remain intact. You can see the weeping tree in the photo included with this post. This is the south side of the house. All the other shrubs and trees you see in the photo were removed last year and the beds are bare. This photo was taken in the late afternoon and as you can see that particular area, the east side of the garage, does not get afternoon sun. It gets about four hours of morning sun. For this reason I don't think Crape Myrtles would do very well there as they wouldn't get enough sun. It's my understanding that Crape Myrtle shrubbery also needs to be planted farther away from structures. I suppose for this area I'll have to plant some shade loving shrubbery. I would want shrubbery that either flowers, has berries or has colorful leaves, leaves that either do or do not change with the seasons. Although I know that it would probably make a landscape architect cringe, I don't particularly care for needle leaf shrubbery, for contrast reasons or otherwise, although I have some on the north side of the house that will remain. The area you see that is still getting afternoon sun is where the Azaleas will be planted. This bed for the Azaleas doesn't get full sun all day, as you may think by looking at the photo. As the sun tracks over the house this area gets about six hours of morning/early afternoon sunlight and about four hours of sunlight that is broken up by some fairly large Oak trees on my property and the property of the neighbor to the east of me, trees that you can't see in this photo. I suppose this is called dappled sunlight. I would appreciate any suggestions for what would do well in this afternoon shaded area, the area from the weeping tree to the garage man door. I have no intention of building a deck in the future so that doesn't enter into the equation. As I mentioned, the small concrete patio will be removed.