Yes, which is why you need to adjust your watering and your feeding accordingly, as I mentioned in my previous post :-) Not any different than having any other plant planted within proximity to citrus, really. Every plant will have it's own requirements, so don't treat them all the same. I have my roses planted on the same slope, right next to California natives. I water and fertilize my roses more than my natives (I don't fertilize my natives at all, as some of them fix their own N and fertilizing them can actually kill them). I water my avocados, and feed them more frequently than my citrus. All are doing well on the same large slope, as all those plants are treated differently, based on their specific needs. And, avocados need more fertilizer, more frequently as well as more water than citrus. They are quite heavy feeders and prefer to be fed often. In fact, most commercial avo growers here simply run "fertigation" systems, so their avos are fertilized with every watering. Also with being prophylactically treated for phytophthora with the fertization system as well. And, based on how banker has their trees planted, I would not categorize them as "competing". They are far enough apart to not be competing for same nutrients. My trees are about the same distance, and are doing just fine :-) Patty S. This post was edited by hoosierquilt on Tue, Aug 26, 14 at 13:44

Regarding where to cut, I would suggest going low. It seems that many people suggest the use of a "nurse limb" when grafting citrus, but I have found that it is not needed. The graft will grow fine without a "nurse limb". If the graft does not take there will be plenty of growth below the cut that can be used for subsequent attempts. Regarding the grafting of a key lime to an orange rootstock, you may want to reconsider. Nurseries typically graft limes onto lemon rootstocks and I am sure that is for good reason. If you proceed with the lime on the orange, do not be surprised if it results in a long-term incompatibility. If I were going to the trouble of top working an unwanted old navel tree, I would choose a more exotic variety to graft on top. Bearss limes are readily available in stores and not expensive. There is not much of a quality difference between a home-grown lime and a store-bought lime. I have a Bearss lime that came with my house and I am currently in the process of top working it to some more interesting varieties that cannot be found in stores. There are so many great varieties available to you from CCPP that you could graft onto your tree that are so very delicious, but unavailable in stores. I would suggest one of those instead; it would also be more likely to be compatible with your rootstock. Perhaps an avana tardivo di Ciaculli mandarin, a Maltese blood orange, or a California Rojo pigmented navel instead? Best regards, Dan Willey Here is a link that might be useful: California Rojo

Louis, if you are serious about growing healthy trees in a pot, have you considered making a check list and seeing what they might be lacking, one thing at a time? If anyone is to hit the issue right on the nail, it will be you. We can only guide you, but we are not the ones that spend as much time with your trees as you do...As a general rule, most citrus trees do very well in a container if given every thing they need to be happy... On your check list should be.... A good soilless mix, one that allows you to fertilize regularly and in good amounts, one that allows you to water freely without fear of root rot, one that fried out rapidly and one that allows the roots to easily breath...Do I use this? Sunlight...Lots of it year round if possible....Do my trees get this? Temps that are consistent...Ones that drop about ten degrees my night and stay above 55 and no higher than 95..Are my trees exposed to this? LOTS of fertilizer, one that provides macro and micro nutrients as well as Ca and Mg. Do I use this? A fertilizer solution of no higher 7.5 pH and no lower than 5.5..That means that one MUST know the pH of their municiple water...Do I know what my water pH is? Frequent flushes if their mix is fine in nature that does not allow salt toxicity. Should I do this? Does my mix hold salts? How to judge when to water? Do you use a wooden dowel? Have you checked to see if the bottom 1/2 of your containers are holding moisture when you see that the top is dry? This is just a start....Can you see where you have erred in any of these? Mike)

Go for it Kelley! It feels like the most exciting project you can do since you're not hassling to get $80 budwood. Plus you get to savor the fruit attached to the stems! 1 out of 3 of my twigs is dying and it had the least nodes. The other 2 twigs were also longer and one of them is multi-branched. They also had larger green swollen buds and buds that were already pushing out unlike the dying twig so definitely look for these types of traits when you get yours!