Hello, Shiraz! That one question is difficult to answer. Bare-rooting is best *IF* you're re-potting during the optimal time of year (Spring) *AND* if you're replacing all of the old soil with a very differently textured medium. If the tree is very, very rootbound and the old soil is compacted, some have suggested that you only remove a couple wedges of the old rootball during the first year. Then, you remove the other wedges in the second year to make the transition go more smoothly. If you're switching from the current soil to a mix that is bark-based like the 5-1-1, then you don't necessarily need to remove all the old soil. You can simply tease the roots apart around the bottom and outer sides of the rootball, rough off some soil, and then replace with the bark mix. Josh

A 2 to 4 inch layer of an organic mulch layer over as large an area as possible around plants is one of the single most beneficial things a gardener can provide. -Mulch certainly does prevent the evaporation of water from the soil surface; an essential function at some times of the year, in much of the country. -Mulch can keep the mowers and weedeaters away from the trunks of trees, and from shrub/perennial beds. -It prevents soil splashing, a cause of erosion. -It prevents the surface of the soil from crusting and repelling water. A mulched soil has much improved percolation of water through the surface. Yes, light rainfalls can be captured by the mulch, but that effect is countered by the evaporation prevention. -Mulch buffers soil temperature, perhaps one of the biggest benefits. In cold or hot weather, the soil temperature remains comfortable for the shallow essential roots of trees and other plants AS WELL AS FOR the microorganisms that abound in a protected soil system. -Soil texture is improved as mulch breaks down into smaller particles and become part of the soil. -Mulches have a nutrient value as they decompose, both for the plants and for the beneficial microbes. Those microorganisms are essential for the plants' growth and development, for their very existance. -Mulched plants have more roots, especially where there is that important mulch layer. This is important for plants of all ages. The shallow, non-woody roots are very short lived and need to be replaced constantly. Where do you think that this will occur on a much larger scale? Under mulch. -Mother Nature DOES mulch. In a natural setting the entire first layer of a soil system is the "O" layer (for organic). The only place where the "O" layer exists anymore is in an untouched native woodland or natural area. Mulching with ANY organic substance (bark, wood chips, pine straw, leaves, etc.) is our way of replacing what has been taken away. -Using the farmer analogy is probably not the best, lol. They would mulch if they could, believe me! Wind and water erosion like crazy, soil depletion of nutrients and water, weed invasion, YIKES! Drive by a newly plowed and planted field and see if you don't agree. If it weren't for herbicides...... -Most would agree that a mulched landscape is much more aesthetically pleasing than a parched soil surface. My mulch of choice is a load wood chips delivered to my door by my favorite arborist. Since they are composed of the woody part of an assortment of trees and not the just the bark, they break down much faster than pine bark, but top dressing isn't a big chore.

Sounds like an urban nightmare. What can you do?? First I would look for 2 or 3 trees of the variety you like best, 3 year old trees; and plant them in a part of the garden where you are in control. In a couple of years the new trees will begin to produce; and when they are big enough, you can let go of the older trees. Second, I would definitely prune back any limbs touching the new fence; after that you can reduce the height and let in more light at the same time using a method called "drop crotch pruning"... you can google that and easily learn how to do it. Personally, for oranges and grapefruits of that size, I would not lower the height by more than maybe 5-7 feet. You can repeat the procedure in subsequent years, if you wish more change. Next, give your trees a big shot of a good citrus fertilizer applied at the drip line/fence line and watered in deeply. Lastly, being in Florida, I would treat your trees with imidacloprid foliar application and/or soil drench 3 times per year; ask your local nurseryman or home supply store for the best product to use. Imidacloprid is a systemic insecticide that is also topically active; but enters the plant tissues, killing any insect that sucks on or chews the leaves, without killing the beneficials. Unfortunately, it will not affect your seemingly obnoxious or uncaring neighbor.

Drew51, I don't know why, but I am just seeing your posting from Sunday today. Weird. Anyway, thank you for advice on my apricot. It was just planted this spring and is doing well, even for its lack of a good start from me. I have not decided if I should do anything with it or just leave it as is. If I decide to dig it up and mound it, should I wait until after we get a freeze and all the leaves have dropped? We are already 4 days past our normal fall freeze date, and still no freeze here yet. The link you posted was pretty amazing. I lost 2 hazelnuts this spring. I amended the soil according to instructions from Stark Bros when I planted them, thinking I was doing something great to help them! So between that and the excessive rains we had, they died. I won't amend anymore!!