I have a large one that I grow in a pot here,I'm zone 8 to.I overwinter it in my greenhouse which is unheated.I do use a heat lamp on the coldest nights.They will not return here if planted in the ground,at least thats been my experience.I have lost a few also that were in pots,our winters are so unpredicatable.Good luck!Debbie

Yes and no. It truly depends on the micro-climates and the roses in your garden. I live in the mountains of northern California at the 2000' elevation level. Generally, I don't bother with winter protection, but I do try to make sure that all of the roses go into winter healthy. The exception ... I have one very cold micro-climate in my garden. In the years I did not provide extra mulch, the roses came back, but not as vigorously as they did in the years when I did mulch that bed. If I have a young rose planted just this spring, I'll give it more mulch to help it get through its first winter. I do mulch all of the beds in fall, if possible, but not for winter protection. I use shredded oak leaves and they break down over winter and are feeding the soil in spring and provide a weed barrier. I also mulch in spring, but that's to prepare the beds for my high summer temps. Smiles, Lyn

Hi,I'm in UK and unlike Mike's friend,don't have a greenhouse.However indoor winter grafting isn't climate dependant.As long as it's above 15 degrees it will work with this method.Keep out of direct sunlight. Bring the rootstocks indoors a couple of weeks or so before grafting.Try and graft as close to the time when you usually expect your maples to wake up...for me end of Jan is just a shade too early,early Feb is better here.They usually take about 3weeks to take.You will not be watering them again until the graft has taken so make sure they're lightly moist not dessicated. After the first week cut the tops of rootstocks and let them bleed,then a few days later cut back more,you're trying to get the bleeding out of the way before you graft.Once they've stopped bleeding(if they bleed,sometimes they don't)you're ready to graft.If no bleeding,just look for other signs the rootstocks are awake(swelling buds,new roots)the roostocks must be awake,it's better to wait longer to make sure rather than graft on a dormant rootstock and have them fail. After grafting,individually put a small bag over the scion only(don't cover the rootstock) and tie the bag at the base of scion with a twist tie.I find cutting an inch slit at the bottom of the bag(open end)helps...you can then slide the bag down the scion with the rootstock positioned in the slit and tie the bag to the rootstock. (I use little freezer food/sandwich bags but you may be able to source better)This is a must do as they will dry out otherwise.A squirt of fungicide into the bag is recommended too,fungus is the main killer of my grafts so keep a daily check on them.Humidity is not an issue as the bag takes care of this. After about 3weeks you should see some action,the buds will swell then leaf out.If you see blackening at the base of the scion it has failed.Keep the bags on the scions while the leaves grow.Once the scion is leafed out properly and looking happy and possibly getting cramped in those bags,you can now remove them and put a bag over the whole plant instead and elastic band round the pot.Just don't remove the scion bags too early as the leaves will quickly shrivel.You have to be the judge of this.You can also give them a sip of water if needed but only a little.Now you will have to ween them off the humidity over the next couple of months as the grafts get stronger.I'm sure you can think of ways of letting more air into the bags gradually,just don't be tempted to remove their protective environment completely too early,especially in your centrally heated house.Don't rush it,they'll be quite happy in their little 'greenhouses'. I've had over 90% success with this method but sadly(and most annoyingly)I just don't have the same success with summer grafting.....good luck :)

I'm not as far north as you, however, the roots of my talinums have always survived the winters in San Antonio, but to be sure I'd bring that little pot inside until you find that it will reliably self seed as mine does. I have three forms, the old fashioned green, the lime green 'Limon', and a taller variety with bigger flowers that came in with a plant I bought. I love them all. Where else can you find such an easy to grow plant with few demands in such a great foliage color, unless it would be "Chocolate plant". You will likely get some negative comments about how they will come up everywhere. And they will if you don't use a lot of mulch as I do, but if they are not in a welcome spot they are easy to pull when young. When older you have to dig up the fleshy roots; they they come up easily with one plunge of a digging fork.. Anyway they don't grow to be large plants so they've never been a problem. Hopefully you'll get some replies from your area.