New to Citrus, Start From Seed or Buy Grown?
ashley_plant_addict
14 years ago
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tsmith2579
14 years agomeyermike_1micha
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Starting new citrus with old root stock?
Comments (1)Just the right size for a bark graft. Check around on the web and you will find plenty of how to instructions. It's not that hard and spring or fall is the right to do the job....See MoreFor those of you who buy the plants and DO NOT start from seed...
Comments (9)Well the only "brand" of plants available around here is Bonnie's Plants as they are the biggest plant grower/supplier in the south. Otherwise you have to buy your plants from a local grower who sells at the farmer's market or one of the few local nurseries who grow their own. So when it comes to plant brands there are few choices. Varieties of tomato plants is also somewhat limited as the growers usually only grow the common varieties or what was a big seller the previous year or years. So any unusual varieties or heirloom varieties will be hard to find as plants. That's why so many now grow from seed. Around here you can almost always find Beefsteak, Juliet, Sweet Million Cherry, Bradley, Better Boy, Big Boy, Celebrity, Early Girl, Patio, Lemon Boy, Arkansas Travelers, maybe Jet Star, Rutgers, a few Brandywine, and a few selected others. Of those, the only ones I would be personally interested in growing are the AR Travelers, Brandywine, Rutgers, and Jet Star. But many others seem to like Early Girl, Celebrity and Better Boy because they sure sell alot of those plants. Dave...See MoreI'm new to growing from seed,how do I get started?
Comments (0)Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"...See MoreAre slightly crooked trunks a characteristic of seed grown citrus?
Comments (5)Zig zag is completely normal in new shoots. It's because the leaves grow alternately on the stems. Eventually as the trunk thickens, the zigzag shape will become less and less obvious....See Moreashley_plant_addict
14 years agomeyermike_1micha
14 years agotsmith2579
14 years agoashleysf
14 years agoashleysf
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14 years agotrianglejohn
14 years agoashley_plant_addict
14 years agoashleysf
14 years agoashley_plant_addict
14 years agowally_1936
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13 years agoperennialprobowler
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