Wonderful plants! Mine is still a young stick! Love them. As usual love your pots.

Kieth, as always, amazing plants and pots.

Sweet!

So, if you prune T. panic back hard it will bud back?

T

beautiful,... I don't know what else I can say. I keep repeating myself.

Thanks all!

T,
Yes it is budding back. Went from 5 growing points to at least 12.

C -

That is excellent! When would you recommend pruning? Before it has started growing for the season (i.e., when the branch tips start showing those green buds)? Or, would you do it after it has leafed out...like now for instance? I assume you could encourage branching with proper pruning...does it matter where you make the cut? I don't really see any dormant buds on mine along the branches...

Thanks.

T

My panic is kind of tall and not very branched...but it's in a really cool pot...

{{gwi:694128}}

Wouldn't hurt to do it know while it's putting out new growth. Make the cut as you would any other, at the desired node or just pick a spot that looks best

Tom,

My 2 centavos - that side branch would make an excellent plant on its own.

T,
I'll have to post a photo of the plant I chopped that was similar in stature to yours. Nice pot BTW ;o)

{{gwi:694129}}

Wow! So you basically trunk chopped it down to that size?

On mine, I was thinking of shortening all branches, leaving the front top center branch about the same, but making the two other top branches shorter than the center one (if that makes sense). I would also shorten the side branch (to Jeff's point, can that be rooted?)...

But I am afraid, I must admit. What if it does not bud back? Would I pull back on watering until it recovered? What if I kill it...I only have one!

Seriously, it looks so easy when you show these pics, Keith, but is it??

Tom

It was chopped that tall but branching is hit or miss. Some times they don't branch this nicely. I have one that just sent out one branch after cutting.

You'll have two if you chop it. If you do it water normally to encourage fast growth. Your plan would be safest, mine a bit more risky....and you know me, chop big!!

How long after chopping do you think it will take to bud? I am keeping mine indoors under a 600W HPS bulb right now...

Do you treat the wounds with anything, or let them harden off on their own?

Is rooting the cuttings simply letting them harden off and potting them in some pumice or perlite?

Thanks.

Tom

Tom, if you're feeling gutsy, I would suggest chopping the top part of the trunk off just above the little nub stiking out on the left hand side of the trunk and then chopping off that large side branch. That top portion would make an awesome fat trunked "tree" in its own right.

Paul -

I hear what you are saying...but the question is whether or not I have the intestinal fortitude to do it...

I have never rooted one of these before. Also, not sure if I have the tools for the job. Wonder if a grafting knife will do it?

I might be chickening out...

T

T,

Just think of it as an more-than-usually toxic Crassula ovata and you'll be fine - it roots the same.

A sharp-edged knife will do it. So will one of those $280 Japanese bonsai blades.

You can dust it with Rootone, but this is the time of year to root the cuttings, that's for sure.

j

j -

Should I let it callous, or go right into some pumice/perlite after a dab of root tone (need to pick some of that up first...)?

You may be talking me into this...I do like the idea of that squat little tree up top...

Thx

T

T,

I find the dust adheres better when it's wet, so there's no need to callous it first, but yes, I would do as you say.

You know you have The Right Stuff.

No special tools needs, box cutter, razor blade, steak knife will all work. No fungicide, no rooting hormone either. Just cut and let callus. You will not be rooting the piece till next fall anyway, yes it needs to dry that long to prevent it from rotting while trying to root.

Keith,

The plant still has a number of months to grow (until April or so) - why would rooting wait until the fall?

And rotting won't occur if you don't water the soil, particularly if the rooting hormone / sulfur power is used.

I've had the best success rooting cutting that have dried for 6+mo. Have tried it both ways, in dry soil and air dry. The latter always produced better results.