Congrats on your first orchid. I was 12 years old when I got my first plant (a cattleya). 40 plus year later, I'm still growing cattleyas. Orchids are infective. Phalies like most epiphytes grow in trees and extend aerial roots out. The green tips of the roots possess chlorophyll so they are photo-sensitive and sometimes grow toward a light source. However, it doesn't sound good if the roots outside the pot are dry and shriveled. Wait till the plant finishes blooming and repot in a fresh medium. When you buy these plants from the store, there's no telling how long the plant was sitting in the pot. A lot of phalies are potted in sphagnum. Nothing wrong with that, but in a plastic pot, it has the problem staying too wet for too long and the main roots might have become rotten from over-watering. While Phalies don't possess a water storage system like the pseudobulbs of cattleyas and the like, they don't like to be in standing water or soaking wet medium. They need to dry out between watering. Phalies in the wild grow in the humid jungles of Indonesia. There is regular rain, but there is also a good amount of breeze and airflow that allows the plant to dry out before the next shower. Also, the higher humidity helps the plant from being desiccated. The "little green horns" on the inflorescence maybe either another secondary flower spike or a "keiki" or the formation of a baby plant. Sometimes if the plant starts to break keikis over flower, the plant might be in distress. When a plant senses it is dying, it will do anything to preserve itself, either by flowering or making keikis. But you will not know that for a while. A good sign is that the plant is putting out a new leaf. Make sure that when you water, never leave standing water in the crown (the axil of the leaves). Standing water can lead to crown rot and this usually is fatal to the plant. Also, never have the plant sitting in a plant saucer filled with water. Again, this will keep the medium too wet and cause rot. Phalies (though they say tolerate shady conditions) do like a good amount of indirect light. The key to flowering most orchids is the quality of light. A north facing window won't do. A south facing window is the best. The leaves should always be a medium green. Very dark green leaves means the plant isn't getting enough light, and they become long, thin and flaccid. Too much light and the leaves could bleach out, turn yellow or burn. Phalies and Paphs don't need as much light as cattleyas that is true. You can put the flowering plant anywhere in the house to be enjoyed. But when you want it to start growing, put it in a sunny window. And if you live in areas where you can summer a plant outdoors under shade cloth or lath, (a tree sometimes can cast too much shade; depends on the tree) do that. Really, an orchid growing indoors is rather foreign to them. But that goes for all plants. Soon you will be hooked and adding more plants to your collection. You will want a greenhouse. It never ends. Trust me. Good luck and have fun!!

so did you do anything about the media.. or is that project for next summer outdoors??? in MI ... indoors... in a miserable winter.. i would probably NOT do further repotting .... ask the citrus peeps for timing on that ... i am thinking.. winging it here ... that a late winter .. very early spring timing.. would get its feet in some proper media.. just before it starts its next root growth phase ... such will probably be triggered by lengthening of sunlight hours... and i will yell... OR I HAVE IT ALL BACKWARDS BECAUSE THERE ARE SPECIAL RULES FOR CITRUS ... this is left to your research ... my good friend rhiz said: Excess moisture is not a requirement for the fungus gnats....but a high percentage of peat and compost is. ==>> the wording just seems hard to me .... peeps who dont know how to manipulate their media... often make peaty media.. to wet .. thru.. excessive moisture.. so though i fully understand what she is trying to say.. and understand how she would handle it.... i am not sure her message is clear ... and understand.. the important roots... are sitting near the bottom of the pot.. not the top of the media.. which dries from the furnace.. not the first inch or two where your finger is... but the bottom third.. which even thought all the former are reasonably dry ... is sopping wet ... you really should not water.. until the whole pot is dry-ish ... not a sip of water.. every time the surface appears/feels dry .... that isnt really where teh roots are.. is it???? when we talk of media and drainage ... we are talking about a consistency of the media from top to bottom ... i learned about this.. when i learned to tip plants out of pots.. to LOOK at how it all works ... i dont recall the size of yours and if that could be done .. and for sure..not on a recent repotted plant ... BTW... late next august.. presuming you will be putting this outdoors in full shade next summer... late in august.. you treat the pot outdoors... so it is ready to bring it in the house in late Sept or so ... so all your bug juice is used out in fresh air.. safe is safe.. but treating stuff indoors.. even organically is not high on my list... unless.. as in your case.. the marauding hordes force your hand ... [in my experience.. no pot smaller than a bushel basket ever goes in full sun ... its all about baking the root mass in a small gob of heat retaining media... see.. we are right back to media ... and that is the lesson .... when dealing with pots] report back often.. your clem is now my friend... lol ken

You may want to brace yourself. Your tree looks like it's going to lose almost all of of its leaves. This wouldn't be caused by water logged roots, or the repotting. I suspect its from the cold. The best advice I can give you now is to keep it in the west facing window so the branches don't get burned. The roots may not be able to supply the tree what it needs at the moment. Just water it as you would if it were healthy, by letting it dry out mostly before watering again. Any branch that is green is still alive, but any branch that has turned yellow will harden and be dead (or turn black... and be dead) I had mentioned my first tree. I had brought it back from Florida in 2005. It had only 5 leaves on it when I potted it. Not long after, it dropped all its leaves and as was literally a stick in mud for about 2 months before it showed any sign of life. Now its taller then me. This post was edited by CitrusWeekendWarrior on Fri, Feb 14, 14 at 22:54

Esmeralda, I would pot it into a larger container and then, once it is used to its new home, trim if necessary. I try to keep my trees to 6-7 feet tall at the most. Some are bushy too. I'm not sure which is worse...lol! In order to get fruit, you will need to let them grow. However, I have seen a beautiful Meyer lemon tree that was kept to about 4 feet tall, but very bushy that produced almost 40 lemons. It is close to 10 years old though. Have faith..it wil work out!