So much of "easy" or "difficult" depends on growing conditions. Carlisleliverpool finds "Boston" ferns easy in the UK; I bet folks in Tucson would have a very different view! Since you're Z5, I'll assume your conditions are similar to mine. Dry air is my ferns' biggest enemy much of the year. As a general rule, the thicker and more leathery the fronds, the lower humidity the plants can tolerate. The commonly available staghorn ferns with their big thick antler fronds can get flat out dry in humidity that's low enough to be uncomfortable for us humans, and they sail right along. (But give one to an Excessive Nurturer - i.e. overwaterer - and it won't last so long.) The most commonly available Pteris ferns, though (and there are something like 250 different species, so this is a generalization), with their paper-thin fronds will tend to look ugly pretty fast when the humidity is low. I grow in conditions of very good light (including some direct morning sun), humid summers with cool nights, quite cool winters with low humidity, and I let all but the most delicate ferns dry out a bit between waterings. That said, in my conditions, most difficult to easiest, with some duplicate commonly-grown forms separated out: 1) Adiantum (raddianum & similar sp.) 2) Pteris 3) Adiantum (again...hispidulum and similar species) 4) Nephrolepis (Boston types and curly cv's thereof. Not so difficult to keep alive as difficult to keep looking nice. They need a fair amount of grooming & cleaning up after.) 5) Asplenium (Look for the thicker-fronded species and cv's to be more durable than those with thin, broad fronds.) 6) tie- Nephrolepis (Lemon Button or Kimberly Queen - a little messy, but very tolerant) 6) tie- Phlebodium aureum (syn. Polypodium aureum Some of the crested or fringed cv's are a little touchier. I left my huge P. pseudoaureum dry in the dark garage all last winter. It froze, it died back to ground level, but it came back like a trouper this spring.) 7) tie for easiest- Davallia (..and again, there are many species, some of which I find quite difficult, but I'll assume we're taling about the one most common in cultivation, a variety of D mariesii often mistagged as D. trichomanoides. Easy if you're careful not to rot them. If it gets too dry, they'll go dormant, but they come back out of it nicely. It's not a bad idea to let them dry a little in late fall as they're normally semi-deciduous. 7) tie for easiest - Platycerium bifurcatum (They'll tolerate heat, cold, dry, almost anything but soggy poorly-aerated substrate or prolonged cold/wet. Hey Toni-- how goes it? Still got the large (and beautiful) citrus collection? Microsorum musifolium (Crocodile) is pretty durable (the fronds are used in flower arrangements, so you can tell they're not overly delicate) but they are vulnerable to leaf spot & die back from overhead watering. I know you like to mist but it's not this particular fern's favorite thing. If you are going to mist it, I'd suggest limiting it to times when you know the plant can dry again quickly (like mornings) and using distilled water.

I think that BNFs are much more adaptable to indoor conditions than most others...but if your home is excessively dry, then they might have problems, too. Have you any idea what the relative humidity is in the house? I'm sure that you know of the sensitivity of all ferns to the usual treatments for scale insects, their most dreaded pest. They do not like soap applications or horticultural oils one bit. Before spending that kind of money on this fern, be sure that you inspect it for pests VERY carefully. Nurseries are where pests find plants that we bring home.

I would continue to watch it for a week or so. There are two basic possibilities: damage to the central bud or damage to the roots. I'm guessing it's root failure based on the appearance of those droopy emerging croziers -- a classic symptom. It could be due to compacted soil, drought, pH problems or contact with weed killer. A tree fern planted that close to a home foundation is going to have a lot of lime leached into the root system. I would plant it out away from the house in a soil heavily enriched with compost and generously mulched. FWIW, in the future don't remove old fronds before the replacement fronds have unfurled. It takes a lot of energy for the plant to pump out new fronds and that energy has to come from somewhere. Ideally, it will come from photosynthesis from the old fronds. If the old fronds have died and are unable to photosynthesize, the fern may still be able to absorb some nutrients from the dying fronds to form some new (though probably stunted) new fronds. If the fronds are entirely removed, then there is no energy input for the fern to unfurl the new fronds forming in the bud. It isn't likely that this is the reason for the plants' failure, but it's something to keep in mind for the future. Ugly as they may be, dying fronds should remain until at least three new croziers have unfurled. I think the hummingbird issue is unrelated to the health of the tree ferns. I would also remove the Spanish Moss and put it on a tree or something. It looks unnatural on the tree ferns and spoils their natural beauty.

Try the same thing I use on white scale (see earlier post). Mix white oil, you might know it as Pest Oil (80% petroleum base) with water at HALF strength plus a dash of dishwashing liquid. Spray it on both sides of the fronds. The miscible oil smothers the critters and the DW liquid helps it to stick to the fronds better. You may have to repeat in 4 or 5 days but be sure before hand that the scale is not dead. A squeeze will tell you if they have dried up - if they have they are dead. Even though this is a fairly harmless spray there is no point in using it more than you have to. Remember, HALF strength mix to avoid any possibility of frond burn. Best of luck, John