Satsuma tree doesn't produce
dwcooley
12 years ago
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Karly30
12 years agohoustontexas123
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Honeycrisp Apple Tree doesn't bloom
Comments (43)OK, we're now on the third year of the honeycrisp and there are no apples. It got only a few blooms, but no fruit developed. Meanwhile, the snow apple, which was purchased as a polinator, has a number of apples. I haven't fertilized any of my fruit trees (a peach and two cherries in addition to the apples). Maybe this is the problem with the honeycrisp. The cherries aren't producing, either, but I didn't expect them to this soon. The sweet one was decimated by japanese beetles last year and the sour is a standard not a dwarf or semi-dwarf so I expect it's got more years of growing before it produces fruit. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that and should be doing something to encourage fruiting (besides spraying, which we are doing for the first time this year). This is an extremely helpful forum. Thanks to everyone for their input. Caryl...See Morepictures of 'peach' tree that doesn't produce
Comments (15)Tony: An overall photo of the tree would be helpful, but from what I can see of those leaves, they do not look like the leaves on my peach trees. You still have not told us your location, a fact that can be very useful for people trying to help you. There are several rootstocks commonly used for grafted peach trees, including Halford, Lovell, and Guardian. None of them will grow good peaches. Occasionally, you might find a peach tree grafted to seedling, which might grow acceptable peaches. The place to find out which rootstock you have is the place you bought the tree. For Frank: Don't let that Reliance get any larger than 10 feet tall. Prune that baby down, concentrating on removal of growth in the tree's center, and spread the branches. You can do it now, right now, especially if it has a few nice peaches that are shaded by the growth. If Contender survives in North Dakota, it will find SE Wisconsin to be almost tropical. I have to say these are the first peaches I have seen, with the tree in its 3rd leaf, and I can't give you an opinion on their flavor. But they sure look good, and at the rate they are growing will be the largest peaches I have ever grown. Looks like an average of about 3/4 lb. each. I expect to have some go to a full pound each. Big peaches are heavy. For Troman: Don't let your peach trees put on too much upward growth. It will make it more difficult to thin, spray and pick them when they set fruit, which might be next season. It's not rocket science. Just take your pruners and go to work. I prune my trees at any time of the year they need it, and always prune off a lot of new growth on top just after thinning (early June) to allow maximum sun penetration on the fruit. Peach trees grow more fruiting wood than they need, which leads to the need for much more thinning work the following season. And spread those branches, by hook or by crook. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See Moreapple tree doesn't bear much
Comments (6)Alan: The timing of your last pruning might turn out to be a happy kind of accident. I am convinced beyond any doubt that my switch to summer pruning about 5 years ago has been responsible for turning the orchard from a light producer to a level that even using most of the apples for cidermaking leaves me with a large surplus. I now realize that several trees I took out because of their busy, bushy growth and low productivity could have been turned around by summer pruning. You should begin to see the difference next spring. I forgot to ask whether your tree had many blossoms, but I assume it did not or you would have more apples. I also assumed that your 10-year tree is probably on the semi-dwarfing M-7 rootstock, and is about 12 feet tall with equivalent spread. That would be about right on M-7. There is nothing wrong with planting a multi-grafted tree, aside from the fact that 2 or 3 (or even one) variety can come to dominate the others, but you can control these differences to some extent by balancing the pruning. I guess at least all 5 of your varieties have survived. Alabama should be just fine for growing a wide range of apple varieties, if you can control early insects like the plum curculio. I bag my apples in ziplock sandwich bags after thinning to one per cluster to frustrate the insects and eliminate spraying with insecticides, although I also dormant spray with oil about 2 weeks before bud break. As to your specific question about applying lime to your slightly acidic soil, it is almost never a bad idea to put down 5-10 pounds of pelletized or ground lime around an apple tree, since apples need calcium. Whether the trees can actually utilize the calcium from lime is another question, but I tend to believe they can to some extent. Every other year, I also apply boron in the form of ordinary 20-mule team borax around the apple trees, using a full box spread around 30 trees, which works out to a little less than one cup per tree spread out to the dripline. Do not overapply borax or it can become toxic in the soil, as it is highly alkaline, and do not apply it on a windy day or it will blow all over the place. I believe the boron helps blossom bud development and fruit set, but again, don't overdo it as boron is a trace element not a fertilizer. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreAloe doesn't produce offsets
Comments (28)You're right, I know I keep referring to it as a scrap, but it was actually a tiny, 1.5" piece with another small leaf emerging, and the smallest bit of root. Definitely a complete pup. It was mostly yellow and almost completely flat, but the newer, tinier leaf was greener and fatter. It still had some life it in, so I put it in soil. Lo and behold, I have a huge healthy plant now! :) This post was edited by Danielle317 on Fri, Jul 12, 13 at 11:51...See Moresilica
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