Thai lime is not hardy. Grow it in a pot.

Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

If it drops below 32 degrees in the winter where you live very often, it will die. They are tropical-type citrus trees. I would put in in a much larger pot, give it citrus food once a month and never let the pot dry out. Also, make sure it gets enough sun, but don't let it broil in the hot sun in a pot. Bring the pot indoors near a very sunny window if it gets very cold where you live. It takes about three years for them to produce limes, however, yours may never produce since you grew it from a seed.

Thank you for the responses. I live in Houston, Texas and it could get cold (below 32) in winter time, but usually does not last very long, just a few days. That's why I'm hoping the tree will survive outdoor. But do you really think I should dig it back out? If so, I guess I might have to do that then. Thanks again :)

It all depends on what you are willing to do for the tree. Limes can take the least amount of cold. If you are willing to protect the tree in winter it can be done. I am in Charleston SC and I have Bearss & Key limes in the ground. I do cover them & add a light when temps drop below 26 but it can be done. It all depends on how dedicated you are.

You stated your soil is like clay- if you dig a hole into clay the spade or shovel can compact the sides of the hole so youve got more like a water-holding cup in the ground.

Im really new at this, but poor clay drainage can harm citrus. I dont know that it would survive long term if you kept it in the ground like that.

good luck!

Tanudin, Your tree, even though it was started from a seed, will certainly produce fruit. All seedling citrus trees produce fruit. However, it will, of course, take much longer than a grafted tree. Count on 4-7 years. - Millet

I agree about the temp. I have K. Lime and it is the very first thing to freeze, even on a night when it only whispers a hint of frost, it turns black. I agree, repot it and winter it indoors.
in the future, when planting in your soil the old school was to add things to the soil mix but it is now been shown that that actually is not good. When you plant, back fill with native soil. otherwise you will get what is called "clay pot" which is what sounds like happened to you. The water will not migrate from the mix to the surounding soil and sits and soures in the hole. that then waterlogs the roots and you got the arrested growth and yellowing that would go with that.
Also, when planting, dig a square hole, and even score the sides in a few places with lines going up and down. That way when the roots start to fill the hole, they will find a nitch to grow into, instead of circleing the hole, as they do in a pot.
Remember those 2 things and i'm sure your next trasplant will be a success.
Arthur the date palm guy

Thank you all for your inputs. I think I will dig it up and re-pot it, give it some food...hopefully it will be healthy again. And maybe in 4-7 years, I will finally see the fruit :) I guess it's a way to learn to be patient ;) O, another question..how big can a Kafir Lime tree become, since it has to spend its life in a pot? Just trying to figure out the size of the pot needed. Thanks again.

Plant the tree in a pot that will allow it to spread out its roots. You might try a 20" pot. I learned a lot about clay-type soil from this posting. It is not good for citrus, which needs good drainage. If you do not dig it up, you may be able to keep it going during the winter by stringing some Christmas lights around it and making a little barrier from the cold with a clear plastic sheet. Good luck. I hope you get lots of luscious Kaffir limes some day!

Please help. I have had a kaffir lime tree with 2 limes on it since july. The leaves have become shriveled looking....almost fungal. I live right outside of Houston texas...right now its in partial shade....3 hrs sun. It is still in the pot... it is the new leaves that look shriveled the others are fine. What can I do? I am so happy to have found this tree after searching for three years off and on. thanks.

Tanudin, you said you were going to dig it up add give it some food. Now, I am reaaallyyy new at citrus but do know you shouldn't fertilize an ailling plant, only healthy ones.

Anyone, please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that.

The "shriveled" leaves could also be a sign of leafminers. Look on the under sides of the leaves, you will see tunneling if it is leafminers. Leafminer attack new growth.

Attiya, check for pests..not only leaf miners, but spider mites,etc.
Make sure all parts of the rootball is watered evenly. Then allow soil to dry between waterings.

Eco, you're 100% right about not feeding when a plant is ill or has bugs. That's the worst thing a person can do...I think you mentioned you grow tropicals, too, right? The same applies to tropicals/C&S's, etc..Toni

Yes, I have a few tropicals, as many as my 4 bedroom appartment can handle. I know it's tempting to want to feed it thinking it will help, but a big no no in general.

(",)

Tanudin, by the time the citrus is doing well again repotted, you maybe into winter, I have a feeling you should maybe hold off fertilizing till spring.

I have dug it up and re-pot it. And thanks to my procrastination habit, I haven't fertilize it yet :) I guess I will hold it off until spring. I do have some shrivelled leaves too. So, I may have some of those pests you're talking about. Will regular pesticide do the job? or I should use something different?

Another stupid question, why do I need to wait for the soil to dry between waterings? Is this just for ailing plants or any healthy citrus plant or just any potted plant? I told you I'm a newbie :)

Thanks

Another stupid question, why do I need to wait for the soil to dry between waterings?

not a stupid question at all. One of the top ag professors at UC Davis says that 90% of problems he sees with fruit trees, or trees in general, are because of too much or too little water.

The answer is: that was the old school rule. It's true that citrus do NOT like to much water, and root rot is a common problem with over watering. But letting the soil dry is a bit to far to the opposite extreem as well. It is now recomended that you water before the soil is completely dry and before the tree is that close to stress. There are various ways to determin the moisture content of the soil, but the main idea is to find that ballance between wet and dry. Of course soil will be wet when you water, just don't keep watering so much that it stays wet. Moist root ball and a bit dry at the surface should be good.
Arthur the Date Palm Guy

I too live in Houston,( just west in Katy). My kaffir is in the pot was doing well until recently noticed leaves looked shriveled....do you have yours in full sun all day? I have posted a question about my problem but no response as of yet. Hope your tree is doing better now that you re potted it. It does get chilly here in winter sometimes below 32, but you would think we could just wrap plants for the two days a year it gets cold.

Tan, you have 4 bedrooms? Wow...Are they being used as sleeping quarters or plant rooms..LOL. 4 br's and other rooms can hold a lot of plants. A LOT!
Like you, I do not feed plants in winter..except for African Violets and Hibsicus. I do use a hormone/Vit called Superthrive each month throughout the year.
Tan, no question is stupid. The only way to learn is to ask and of course read.
Just like you withhold food in winter, most plants do not need constant watering, especially during dark, grey, short days. Give plants a good drink, but before doing so again, let soil dry..The top 3-4" should look crumbly..Also, lifting the plant helps..If it's light, then soil is dry..if heavy it's wet. But you have to do this a few times to be able to compare.
Citrus and other tropicals (and C&S) need drying between watering..Very few plants require wet feet..by doing so, one is asking for troubles including root rot and insects. Humidity is important in winter, but this has nothing to do with the soil..Toni

Toni, I do not have 4 bedrooms, I wish I do :) I believe that's Eco who has them.

Attiya, I am a newbie myself, so I can't give you any advise regarding shriveled leaves. Actually, mine also have some of those shriveled leaves. And I believe some of the experts here have given you the answer about the leafminer or other pests. As for my pot, I put it under almost-full sun in the backyard. I said 'almost' because I have a moderately shady tree in the yard too. And to be honest, I never thought about the amount of sun exposure to the plants. I guess I should. I just put them all in the yard, water them, feed them once in a rare while and hope that they survive ;P That's how inexperience I am :)

I am in North Texas and we do get at least one week a year of pretty low temps - often in the high teens. A few weeks of 20s are commonplace and 30s abound. Ice storms occur at least every other year.

I too am a novice gardner with a kaffir lime tree. This tree was bought as a baby 3 1/2 years ago. Then it was quite small - maybe 2 feet. The first 2 years were easy. I repotted it in the spring into steadily larger pots. Last winter, I was a bit slow and left it outside too long. It lost a lot of leaves (more Thai cooking for us!). We quickly brought it inside and after a couple of months it started putting on new growth. I took it back outside in April, and the tree has sprouted like a weed. Mostly a single long (8 feet) center stalk, and some lower branches. The center stalk does divide about 6 feet off the ground, so it has twin peaks, both of which are around 3/4" in diameter. It all seems very sturdy. It has now got to the stage when I can't bring it indoors - it is just too tall. Also it will need repotting. That is all by way of background. Now for the questions:

First, should I repot now (October) or wait until spring?
Second, Is it sensible to reduce height by lopping off some of the top? If so, how much? Where should I cut, what should I cut with? Perhaps a pruning lesson would help me understand what to do!
Third, since I cannot bring it indoors, but can move it under an overhang, is that a good idea?
Fourth, thoughts on providing enough warmth greatly appreciated. I like the idea of Christmas tree lights, but if I have to wrap it to protect it from the cold air, what should I do?

I have no greenhouse nor other covered place I can put this delightful monster.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

Chris, perhaps you can talk to others who live in Tx for advice on what they do with their citrus in winter.

Kaffir Limes are very cold-sensitive so please be careful during those cold days. If the tree is too large to bring indoors perhaps the lights will work.
Can you build a temporary shelter?

If you prune, would it still be too tall to bring indoors?
I'd hold off repotting until spring.

How tall is the trunk? Toni

AAE lives in Tx and keeps potted plants outdoors; perhaps he can advise you how he grows citrus in winter..

AAE, where are you? (S)